Action Settings
- Thread starter BP13
- Start date
Blade Canyon
Senior Member
This is a good time to use the U1 memory setting on your mode dial. The idea is to make all of your settings adjustments now, then any time you need them you just dial back to U1 and the settings are all there, ready and waiting.
These are just my thoughts: I don't know what the minimum shutter speed is to capture action in soccer or motocross, or what length lens you use, but go into Manual mode and set your minimum shutter speed necessary to capture action at your focal length (1/500th? 1/2000th?) and your minimum aperture to get a decent depth of field (5.6? 8?). Change your ISO Sensitivity Settings to Auto in the shooting menu. That way, the camera will adjust the "exposure" sensitivity to match your shutter and aperture setting. Set your autofocus mode to AS-C with anywhere from 9 points to 51 points (or even 3D?), depending on how much of your frame the action fills. Set your camera to record in RAW + Jpeg fine. Now go into your Menu Settings and save all of these settings to U1 (Menu > Setup Menu > Save User Settings > U1). These are all now saved to U1, and no matter what you change for other shots, going back to U1 will restore these same settings.
At the actual shoot, depending on how fast you have to shoot, change your shooting dial (which is under the left Mode dial) to either Continuous Low (with time to autofocus between shots) or Continuous High (which locks in the focus on the first shot then fires a burst at that setting). Set the camera to U1 and give it a go.
Or you could just be like J-see and shoot everything in manual mode at ISO 100 and shutter speed whatever you want and aperture whatever you want, and then use post processing to adjust the ISO up to where you want.
It's technically sounder than it sounds now, but you won't see any good shots on your camera's LCD screen until you adjust them all on your PC later.
Just out of curiosity, have you tried shooting in Program mode? I really want to know if the camera computer will make all of the correct adjustments and figure it out better than we can. That gives me a good idea for some weekend experiments. The D750 also has a sports scene mode that defaults to higher shutter speeds to capture action.
These are just my thoughts: I don't know what the minimum shutter speed is to capture action in soccer or motocross, or what length lens you use, but go into Manual mode and set your minimum shutter speed necessary to capture action at your focal length (1/500th? 1/2000th?) and your minimum aperture to get a decent depth of field (5.6? 8?). Change your ISO Sensitivity Settings to Auto in the shooting menu. That way, the camera will adjust the "exposure" sensitivity to match your shutter and aperture setting. Set your autofocus mode to AS-C with anywhere from 9 points to 51 points (or even 3D?), depending on how much of your frame the action fills. Set your camera to record in RAW + Jpeg fine. Now go into your Menu Settings and save all of these settings to U1 (Menu > Setup Menu > Save User Settings > U1). These are all now saved to U1, and no matter what you change for other shots, going back to U1 will restore these same settings.
At the actual shoot, depending on how fast you have to shoot, change your shooting dial (which is under the left Mode dial) to either Continuous Low (with time to autofocus between shots) or Continuous High (which locks in the focus on the first shot then fires a burst at that setting). Set the camera to U1 and give it a go.
Or you could just be like J-see and shoot everything in manual mode at ISO 100 and shutter speed whatever you want and aperture whatever you want, and then use post processing to adjust the ISO up to where you want.
It's technically sounder than it sounds now, but you won't see any good shots on your camera's LCD screen until you adjust them all on your PC later.Just out of curiosity, have you tried shooting in Program mode? I really want to know if the camera computer will make all of the correct adjustments and figure it out better than we can. That gives me a good idea for some weekend experiments. The D750 also has a sports scene mode that defaults to higher shutter speeds to capture action.
Last edited:
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
I have U1 set for Bird In Flight. Same way Blade Canyon was talking about. For BIF I set to manual with the shutter speed to 1/2000 sec (for my 70-300 zoom) F 8 if it is a bright sunny day. I also have the exposure set to +1 for the bright sky that I am shooting and ISO to auto with a max of 6400.
Just figure out what works for you and set U1 for soccer and U2 for motor sports. Depending on what kind of motor sports I would bet my BIF settings would be close. Soccer probably a slower shutter speed and a smaller aperture, maybe f11 and 1/1000sec? That is just a guess and your millage will vary.
Just figure out what works for you and set U1 for soccer and U2 for motor sports. Depending on what kind of motor sports I would bet my BIF settings would be close. Soccer probably a slower shutter speed and a smaller aperture, maybe f11 and 1/1000sec? That is just a guess and your millage will vary.
Welcome
I shoot both types of events in Manual. Both will have different setups, generally speaking.
Daytime/outdoor action: Quicker shutter speed, lower ISO, adjust aperture as appropriate.
outdoor nightime/indoor action: Higher ISO, lower aperture, adjust shutter speed as appropriate.
I shoot both types of events in Manual. Both will have different setups, generally speaking.
Daytime/outdoor action: Quicker shutter speed, lower ISO, adjust aperture as appropriate.
outdoor nightime/indoor action: Higher ISO, lower aperture, adjust shutter speed as appropriate.
adityasoman
Senior Member
Check for Back Button focus and Panning
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Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
Welcome
I shoot both types of events in Manual. Both will have different setups, generally speaking.
Daytime/outdoor action: Quicker shutter speed, lower ISO, adjust aperture as appropriate.
outdoor nightime/indoor action: Higher ISO, lower aperture, adjust shutter speed as appropriate.
U1 and U2 would be ideal for this type of shooting.
Personally, depending on which rink he plays in, my settings alter slightly. If I were shooting the same settings semi-frequently, I can see how this would be helpful. Also, if I was concerned about inadvertently changing something while shooting an event it could be helpful also once I dial it in.
For shooting concerts, the lighting is always a challenge and constantly changing more often than not. Manual is the better bet for me.