Macro help with focus and DoF

Have taken a few shots using my Tamron 90mm for comparison purposes. The only difference between each shot is the aperture setting. Everything else remained untouched.
I used the liveview to get the sharpest focus I could and the "50" was my focus point.
All images are straight out of camera with no PP
[MENTION=9753]Scott Murray[/MENTION] and [MENTION=6277]Don Kuykendall[/MENTION] let me know what you think.

First shot was at f 7.1
Note how the focus on the lines is above the 50 mark on either side and then below the 50 on the outside (right).




The next is at f 9.0
Very little difference to my eye. The brighter exposure is probably me holding the off camera flash a bit close.




Then at f 11



f18



f 25


and finally f 40 A bit dark - sorry

Looks like the high aperture would work if the exposure was better.

Are you doing manual focus? If so I think you are moving a few mm too far forward I do this aswell and tend to have to shoot sooner rather than later I would practice at f11 getting the 50 in focus all the way so then you should be able to focus on an insects eye just how you want. It is a fine line but takes practice and is good

I was using manual focus and zoomed in with the liveview - on tripod so no movement at all backwards or forwards.

So we are talking fractions of a micro millimetre?

No wonder I am struggling

Back to practicing I go ...

I find that the slightest tilt of the camera shifts that focal plane enormously.

The best position seems to be directly above the subject

Lawrence said:

I find that the slightest tilt of the camera shifts that focal plane enormously.

The best position seems to be directly above the subject

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Yes it does, this is why you need your dioptor in sharp focus to your eye. I also would advise focusing 1-2mm in front of the subject and see if you get it in focus.

I know I'm not Don or Scott, but yes it can be fractions of a millimeter that can change everything. That is why I generally will shoot my 90mm macro at f/11 or sometimes higher and prefer my crop sensor over my full frame for just this reason.

I now return you to Don and Scott

Moab Man said:

I know I'm not Don or Scott, but yes it can be fractions of a millimeter that can change everything. That is why I generally will shoot my 90mm macro at f/11 or sometimes higher and prefer my crop sensor over my full frame for just this reason.

I now return you to Don and Scott

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Thanks George - the more the merrier I'll take as much advice as I can ...

Scott Murray said:

Yes it does, this is why you need your dioptor in sharp focus to your eye. I also would advise focusing 1-2mm in front of the subject and see if you get it in focus.

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How would that work in practice when there is no guide to the distance in front of the subject? Shoot and hope I would guess

Lawrence said:

How would that work in practice when there is no guide to the distance in front of the subject? Shoot and hope I would guess

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Practice, practice, and practice. I had to do that with my D5100.

As I think about it I often went for their front feet and would nail what I wanted.

Looks like you are dead on the 0 of the 50. The lines in focus are in the same plane (relative to the camera) as the 0, whereas the lines at 50 are nearer the camera due to the upturn of the sides of the tape and angle of "attack".

If you are of a mind to, do a few more, but instead of focusing on the 50, focus on the 50 mark at one side.

I practice and still miss the mark, I aim for the eye to be sharp and if it isn't then I try again you do get better and get better at judging when to shoot your camera. If you miss it just move in/out until you get the focus. If I get time I will try and do a video at how I hand shoot and see if you can get any tips or pointers from it. But right now we are going through our Cyclone procedures and getting ready just in case this does swing our way.

Scott Murray said:

I practice and still miss the mark, I aim for the eye to be sharp and if it isn't then I try again you do get better and get better at judging when to shoot your camera. If you miss it just move in/out until you get the focus. If I get time I will try and do a video at how I hand shoot and see if you can get any tips or pointers from it. But right now we are going through our Cyclone procedures and getting ready just in case this does swing our way.

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Take care mate.

OK straight after the above advice I went and shot this bee.
A year ago I might have liked this but now I don't.
There is no way that this "eye" passes the test - not even close.
You have 5 seconds before this image self destructs ... nthego:



But no more bleating - I know what I have to do.

Lawrence said:

OK straight after the above advice I went and shot this bee.
A year ago I might have liked this but now I don't.
There is no way that this "eye" passes the test - not even close.
You have 5 seconds before this image self destructs ...



But no more bleating - I know what I have to do.

Click to expand...

To me it looks like you are moving a bit too much.

Try this. ISO 100, F11 1/200sec with flash

You may be doing it already, but breath control is so important to try and stay stable.

Moab Man said:

You may be doing it already, but breath control is so important to try and stay stable.

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Yes I tend to hold my breath at times

A quick trigger finger is helpful to avoid handheld moving out of focus after the focus has been achieved.

Depending on the subject and angle, moving back and cropping will provide more DOF and yield a better shot.

Freeze the bee and pose it and try focus stacking