I'm having some trouble figuring out the three exposure modes and which to use for different situations. I'm shooting a lot of landscapes right now and also some still life things. I'm reading and experimenting with all three settings...Matrix, Spot and center-weighted. With the variables in using the different possibilities with auto, 3D..51..etc, I'm getting a little mixed up. Just wondering what you more experienced D800 users are using. I'd appreciate any advice...Thanks!
Help with Exposure Modes
- Thread starter zutty
- Start date
From my Details about Metering Principles
Flash does not use these camera modes, but for those new to these terms, the on-line Nikon Glossary says this (italics added by me):
Spot Metering: A metering method in which meter sensitivity is concentrated within a small circle in the center of the viewfinder. Recommended for very precise metering; requires extensive knowledge of lighting for really effective use.
Center Weighted Metering: Meter sensitivity is biased toward the center of the viewfinder. Recommended when the subject is in the center of the picture.
Matrix Metering: An advanced metering mode in which the camera's computer sets exposure based on its analysis of the scene's components. It is generally regarded as the most accurate metering for most lighting situations, including those with complex lighting. Matrix Meter or 3D RGB Color Matrix Meter gathers information from the red, green, and blue sensors and factors in distance information provided by the lens as it evaluates proper exposure calculation. This meter instantly analyzes a scene's overall brightness, contrast, and other lighting characteristics, comparing what is sees against an onboard database of over 30,000 images for unsurpassed exposure accuracy, even in the most challenging photographic situations. By the time the 3D Matrix meter has made its considerations of colors by hue and saturation, tonal ranges by brightest and darkest, areas of similar tonality that are connected or separated, distance to the subject, and compared that to its database generated from photographic images, it's got a very good idea of what the exposure should be.
If you are a beginner, Matrix is where you should start. As your skills grow, and they will, you will acquire a better understand of when it might be beneficial to use other light metering options.
Flash does not use these camera modes, but for those new to these terms, the on-line Nikon Glossary says this (italics added by me):
Spot Metering: A metering method in which meter sensitivity is concentrated within a small circle in the center of the viewfinder. Recommended for very precise metering; requires extensive knowledge of lighting for really effective use.
Center Weighted Metering: Meter sensitivity is biased toward the center of the viewfinder. Recommended when the subject is in the center of the picture.
Matrix Metering: An advanced metering mode in which the camera's computer sets exposure based on its analysis of the scene's components. It is generally regarded as the most accurate metering for most lighting situations, including those with complex lighting. Matrix Meter or 3D RGB Color Matrix Meter gathers information from the red, green, and blue sensors and factors in distance information provided by the lens as it evaluates proper exposure calculation. This meter instantly analyzes a scene's overall brightness, contrast, and other lighting characteristics, comparing what is sees against an onboard database of over 30,000 images for unsurpassed exposure accuracy, even in the most challenging photographic situations. By the time the 3D Matrix meter has made its considerations of colors by hue and saturation, tonal ranges by brightest and darkest, areas of similar tonality that are connected or separated, distance to the subject, and compared that to its database generated from photographic images, it's got a very good idea of what the exposure should be.
If you are a beginner, Matrix is where you should start. As your skills grow, and they will, you will acquire a better understand of when it might be beneficial to use other light metering options.
Last edited:
Start trying this.
When you're taking a close up or filling the frame, be it a flower or a building, try the spot metering mode.
If you are in the middle, not up real close but not really too wide, then play with the center weight mode.
If you are going really wide, like an all encompassing landscape thing then try the Matrix mode.
Then just go from there.
Honestly most of the time I have it set on Matrix, unless I remember to change it.
-What you're asking about is "light metering modes", not "exposure modes".
-For most of the landscapes, matrix metering would be the best choice.
-Related to virtually all (DLSR) cameras, not just D800.
-Use your tripod, whenever it is possible (VR turned off). Especially in the low light environment (dusk, dawn, sunset...)...
-For most of the landscapes, matrix metering would be the best choice.
-Related to virtually all (DLSR) cameras, not just D800.
-Use your tripod, whenever it is possible (VR turned off). Especially in the low light environment (dusk, dawn, sunset...)...
Thanks so much for the advice guys. Also what about the focus points and which to use? I am experimenting with them all and the 3D feature is really interesting but on some settings it takes a while for the auto focus to kick in...I'm also learning to use the spot metering with the single focus point and locking the metering in and then changing composition. I'm learning it's one thing to read the manual and another to gain the experience to understand it fully...Thanks again!
Of course you're right Dragan...I stand corrected. Thanks for the good advice too.
Thanks Pete, That's exactly what I find myself doing...There's nothing like experience and putting the time in to learn..Thanks, my friend.
As for the focusing: try to avoid AF (entirely) when shooting close ups and macros. Whenever it is possible (whenever you're not hurrying and the subjects/objects are standing still) use the manual focus mode. There are (at least) two reasons for this: 1) with the majority of lenses and cameras, "focus hunting" in AF mode(s) occurs mostly when shooting relatively close subjects; 2) there is no camera and there is no lens and there is no AF mode that will beat the sharp eye of a skilled photographer (practice, practice, practice...).
Last edited:
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
Here's the best explanation I've found that explains the Nikon Auto-focus modes and Auto-focus Area modes.
It's written using the D7000 as an example but the information holds true for your '800 as well: D7000 Autofocus Explained
...
It's written using the D7000 as an example but the information holds true for your '800 as well: D7000 Autofocus Explained
...
Lots of people say they use Spot metering, but no one, simply no one, ever mentions about the absolutely necessary compensation to make the spot come out its correct color (tone) instead of middle gray. This is extremely puzzling, since Spot metering does NOT make the spot be "correct", it merely makes the spot be middle gray (how meters work). But the common general knowledge is if that we spot meter on white human skin, we must compensate to open about +1 EV (else you get middle gray skin).
No one ever mentions that? But spot metering requires knowing a few more things than beginners usually know.
It is not about compensation, but this simple example might help a little about understanding the complexity of spot metering: Details about Metering Principles
Thanks, it was very informative but it may take me a while to get my eyes uncrossed.