How to capture an image of fast moving traffic like this ? http://cdn.stupiddope.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/17th-Street-Bridge.jpg
Is it mixture of HDR and ND filter long exposure ?
Is it mixture of HDR and ND filter long exposure ?
How to capture fast moving traffic picture ?
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One of the simplest things in photography: 1) put your camera on a tripod; 2) set the camera in a "night mode".
Or, do a little "hit and miss" test: 1) set the camera to "manual mode"; 2) set ISO manualy to the value of 100 or 200 or 400; 3) set the wperture to the value of 8. Try with different exposure time values, from 1 sec to 30 sec. Use some wide angle prime lens, or a kit zoom set to, say, 18mm..
Author of that photo has probably used kind of "trick prism" filter (which turns the accentuated bright spots into "sparkling stars").
Or, do a little "hit and miss" test: 1) set the camera to "manual mode"; 2) set ISO manualy to the value of 100 or 200 or 400; 3) set the wperture to the value of 8. Try with different exposure time values, from 1 sec to 30 sec. Use some wide angle prime lens, or a kit zoom set to, say, 18mm..
Author of that photo has probably used kind of "trick prism" filter (which turns the accentuated bright spots into "sparkling stars").
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This is just a time (B) exposure. The reason some of the cars appear stopped is that traffic may have stopped in that lane for the duration of the exposure. Judging from the length of the light trails, exposure was maybe 2 seconds. I doubt it is HDR as that requires at least three exposures; base exposure and 2 others at least 1 stop over and under. There is no way you could have gotten the traffic to line up for those three exposures
For exposures like this I will lock the shutter open, with a black card in front of the lens. Exposure like this doesn't have be super precise so I will usually just count out the exposure. Placethe card back over the lens and unlock the shutter. By keeping the shutter openbefore and after the exposure, you will eliminate any unsharpness and ‘doubleimages’ due to vibration.
For exposures like this I will lock the shutter open, with a black card in front of the lens. Exposure like this doesn't have be super precise so I will usually just count out the exposure. Placethe card back over the lens and unlock the shutter. By keeping the shutter openbefore and after the exposure, you will eliminate any unsharpness and ‘doubleimages’ due to vibration.
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No prism effect here at all. Nikkors with 7 aperture blades will make star patterns like this routinely. Here is what my 16mm Fisheye Nikkor did with the sun. It has 7 blades:
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They are called "diffraction stars" or "diffraction spikes" and the more blades there are in the diaphragm, the more points on the "stars". There no star prism used or you would see it on ever point light source.
I know it's kinda silly to most of the "serious" photographers (I would not use it, anyway), but I meant one of these: http://goo.gl/Pt9AxK
With which you get emphasized effect, like here:
With which you get emphasized effect, like here:
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