Nikon AF-S DX 35mm 1.8g

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
I took couple of indoor photos without flash using my new 35mm Nikon lens. The picture quality is not that much good. If you zoom you would notice lot of noise in picture. I don't see big difference in my basic 13-55mm and 35mm lens. I went through many reviews about this 35mm lens and found all reviews excellent. What is the wrong with my lens? My 50-300 does excellent.

With flash also there is no much improvements.
 
Last edited:

mr2_serious

Senior Member
Look at your exif data, what is the shutter speed and ISO? Maybe the ISO is too high and/or shutter too slow for hand-held

Your kit lens and 55-200 both have VR. So you can get away with slow shutter shots.


» William via Tapatalk
 

Bob Blaylock

Senior Member
I took couple of indoor photos without flash using my new 35mm Nikon lens. The picture quality is not that much good. If you zoom you would notice lot of noise in picture. I don't see big difference in my basic 13-55mm and 35mm lens. I went through many reviews about this 35mm lens and found all reviews excellent. What is the wrong with my lens? My 50-300 does excellent.

With flash also there is no much improvements.

If you're using the term “noise” correctly, then your lens isn't the issue. The amount of noise in your pictures would be dependent on the ISO value at which you're shooting. The higher the ISO value, the more sensitive the sensor is in low light, the more noise you'll get in the picture. It rather neatly corresponds to the connection in stone-aged photography between film speed and graininess.

Try setting the camera in one of the PSAM modes, and set the ISO to 100. I bet you'll then see much less noise, if any at all. Shooting in better light may help as well, though the ƒ1.8 lens ought to let you shoot pretty well even in fairly low light.
 

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
Look at your exif data, what is the shutter speed and ISO? Maybe the ISO is too high and/or shutter too slow for hand-held

Your kit lens and 55-200 both have VR. So you can get away with slow shutter shots.


» William via Tapatalk

I have used "guide mode" - "advanced operation" - "Bring more into focus"
 

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
Look at your exif data, what is the shutter speed and ISO? Maybe the ISO is too high and/or shutter too slow for hand-held

Your kit lens and 55-200 both have VR. So you can get away with slow shutter shots.


» William via Tapatalk

If you're using the term “noise” correctly, then your lens isn't the issue. The amount of noise in your pictures would be dependent on the ISO value at which you're shooting. The higher the ISO value, the more sensitive the sensor is in low light, the more noise you'll get in the picture. It rather neatly corresponds to the connection in stone-aged photography between film speed and graininess.

Try setting the camera in one of the PSAM modes, and set the ISO to 100. I bet you'll then see much less noise, if any at all. Shooting in better light may help as well, though the ƒ1.8 lens ought to let you shoot pretty well even in fairly low light.

Could you please suggest me the setting to get best indoor photos using my 35mm lens? Setting I do mean shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc. under a fluorescent bulb of 25 watt?
 

Bob Blaylock

Senior Member
Could you please suggest me the setting to get best indoor photos using my 35mm lens? Setting I do mean shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc. under a fluorescent bulb of 25 watt?

Here, you're asking what you think is a simple question with a simple answer, but really, it's about the whole of learning how to use your camera. The simple answer that you seek does not exist. It depends very much on what you're shooting, and under what conditions.

You need to understand the exposure triangle (Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO speed). Know that in low light, you're going to have to sacrifice some sharpness somewhere. Slower shutter speed makes you more vulnerable to motion blur, either from the subject's movement or from limitations on how still you can hold the camera. Wider apertures give you less depth of field. (Often, this is actually a good and desirable thing. Study the concept of “bokeh”.) Higher ISO speed on your sensor will result in more noise.


If you insist on there being a simple answer, then the best I can tell you is to use this setting on your camera's dial, when you're shooting in low light. It's not as good an answer as you think there should be, but it's the best I can give you in terms of anything that simple.

2013-11-10 12.33.21.jpg

If you really want to be able to take good pictures, especially in low light or other adverse conditions, then you need to learn how your camera works, and how to do your own thinking, rather than letting the camera think for you. Having moved to my D3200 from my ancient 1972-vintage F2 (everything is manual; it takes great pictures, but only if the person using it knows what he is doing); I've been amazed at how much intelligence is built into the D3200, and how much of the thinking it is capable of trying to do for you; but at the end of the day, as smart as it is, there's no substitute for a photographer who understands how the camera works, and is able to think for himself about how best to set it up for a particular shot.
 
Last edited:

Bob Blaylock

Senior Member
I have used "guide mode" - "advanced operation" - "Bring more into focus"

You need to understand that in order to “Bring more into focus”, you're telling your camera to try for smaller aperture settings, for greater depth of field. In low light, this means it's going to have to sacrifice on shutter speed (slower speed=more motion blur) and/or ISO speed (higher speed=more noise).
 

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
Here, you're asking what you think is a simple question with a simple answer, but really, it's about the whole of learning how to use your camera. The simple answer that you seek does not exist. It depends very much on what you're shooting, and under what conditions.

You need to understand the exposure triangle (Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO speed). Know that in low light, you're going to have to sacrifice some sharpness somewhere. Slower shutter speed makes you more vulnerable to motion blur, either from the subject's movement or from limitations on how still you can hold the camera. Wider apertures give you less depth of field. (Often, this is actually a good and desirable thing. Study the concept of “bokeh”.) Higher ISO speed on your sensor will result in more noise.


If you insist on there being a simple answer, then the best I can tell you is to use this setting on your camera's dial, when you're shooting in low light. It's not as good an answer as you think there should be, but it's the best I can give you in terms of anything that simple.

View attachment 58930

If you really want to be able to take good pictures, especially in low light or other adverse conditions, then you need to learn how your camera works, and how to do your own thinking, rather than letting the camera think for you. Having moved to my D3200 from my ancient 1971-vintage F2 (everything is manual; it takes great pictures, but only if the person using it knows what he is doing); I've been amazed at how much intelligence is built into the D3200, and how much of the thinking it is capable of trying to do for you; but at the end of the day, as smart as it is, there's no substitute for a photographer who understands how the camera works, and is able to think for himself about how best to set it up for a particular shot.

Hi Bob,

Thanks a lot for your nice comments and the time you have spent to answer my question. I know the question I asked is really a silly question and no one do have a direct answer. It needs a lot of efforts to understand the photography. But to be honest I keep trying different settings, I keep reading different blogs, forum, photography tips etc. Any time I try take some photographs I get the dark images. But I understand few tips such as
1) Setting faster shutter for moving object but it will not allow enough light into sensor and would lead dark image
2) Setting higher ISO for getting lighter images and will lead image noise.
3) Wide aperture will get more acquire more light etc. etc.

And I know I am still a dumb in photography. And I am here to learn from the experienced guys like you. Just a small help I nee. Just for a start up, please suggest me a basic setting from where I can start up. And latter on I will keep changing them in various conditions to observe the difference so I can learn myself more about the camera settings.

Again my apologies for my silly questions and comments.
 

Bob Blaylock

Senior Member
And I know I am still a dumb in photography. And I am here to learn from the experienced guys like you. Just a small help I nee [sic]. Just for a start up, please suggest me a basic setting from where I can start up. And latter on I will keep changing them in various conditions to observe the difference so I can learn myself more about the camera settings.

Sounds like what you need to do is set your camera to Manual mode, and play with the three legs of the exposure triangle, to get a feel for how they relate.

Study page 57 of the manual that came with your camera for instructions on using M mode, and changing the shutter and aperture settings therein. Make sure the “Auto-ISO” mode is turned off (see page 129), and see page 51 to learn how to change the ISO value.

Start by setting the ISO to 100, the shutter speed to 1/100 of a second, and the aperture to ƒ16. That should be about right to take pictures outdoors in bright sunlight.

If you take a picture, and it is too dark or too bright, you can change one of the three legs to compensate.

The three legs are:

  1. ISO: In a stone-aged film camera, this would be determined by the film. With most such cameras, you'd load a roll of film, and for that entire roll, this parameter remains unchanged; you'd be stuck with it until you finished that roll of film, at which point you could start with a different roll of a different kind of film. Film “speed” refers to this parameter. A “fast” film is more sensitive to light, and has a higher ISO value. Faster films are usually grainier. On your DSLR, of course, you're not using film, and you're not stuck with the same setting for the whole roll of film. You can change it at will, from one picture to the next. Your D3200 supports an ISO range from 100 to 6400, plus a “HI-1” setting that supposedly is about equivalent to ISO 12800. Manually, you can set it to any of the following values:
    • 100
    • 200
    • 400
    • 800
    • 1600
    • 3200
    • 6400
    • HI-1 (12800)
    Note that each of these values is twice that of the previous. A change of double or half is a “stop”. Under manual control you can change the ISO value in one-stop increments. A higher number means the sensor is more sensitive, and it takes less light to form a properly-exposed image. But as you go to higher ISO values, the sensor becomes noisier.
  2. Shutter speed: The D3200 lets you change the shutter speed in ⅓-stop increments. Increasing the shutter speed by three clicks will double it, halving the total exposure. Decreasing the shutter speed by three clicks will halve it, doubling the exposure. A slower shutter speed lets more light in, but also allows greater potential for motion blur. The faster things are moving in the picture that you want to come out sharp, the faster a shutter speed you need to use. Your own ability to hold the camera steady is also a factor. Conventional wisdom holds that one should generally expect to be able to go no slower than about 1/30 or 1/25 of a second with a handheld camera and a standard-focal-length lens.
  3. Aperture: As with the shutter speed, you can change the aperture value in ⅓-stop increments. The numbers are a bit less obvious than with ISO or shutter speed. The smaller the number, the wider the aperture, the more light it lets in. With ISO and shutter speed, doubling or halving the number doubles or halves the exposure. One aperture value differs from another a full stop away, not by a factor of two, but by a factor that is very close to, but not exactly the square root of two. In perfect theory, it would be by exactly the square root of two, but established convention uses numbers that are close, but much neater. Thus, an aperture of ƒ5.6 lets in twice as much light as ƒ8. Changing the ƒ value by a factor of two changes the exposure by a factor of four. ƒ8 lets in four times as much light as ƒ16. A wider aperture lets in more light, but also gives you less depth-of-field.


So, start at some set of settings, and take a picture. If it's too dark, increase the ISO, decrease the shutter speed, and/or go to a wide aperture (smaller ƒ number) and take another picture. One great thing about digital photography, compared to stone-aged film photography, is that you can see the result right away, and know what changes you need to make to make the next shot come out better. You also don't have to worry about wasting film. Just try it with the settings a certain way, take a picture, and then adjust the settings and try again.

When you've got the exposure right, play around with changing the parameters around. If you increase the shutter speed by one click, open the aperture one click, and the total exposure will be the same. Since the aperture and shutter change in ⅓-stop increments, and the ISO value in full-stop increments, you''l need to change shutter and/or aperture by three clicks before you can adjust the ISO by one click to compensate.

In general, you'll need to think about what kind of sharpness you want to sacrifice, in order to improve another.

If you want to stop fast motion, then you need to use a fast shutter speed.

If you want large depth of field (so that objects at different distances from the camera are in focus) then you need a small aperture (large ƒ-number).

If you want to keep the noise level low, then you need to go with a low ISO value.


Hopefully, this is enough to get you started. From here, I can't teach you anything. You need to learn yourself, by playing with your camera, and with these parameters.
 

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
Awesome. Highly appreciate your time and patience on writing such a big and nice reply. Thank you so much.

You know, I love using the camera in M (Manual) mode. I tried changing the aparture setting, shutter speed, ISO etc. Sometimes I get good photos when taken in sun light but when taken indoor photos with same setting it gets dark. I know I have to explore more settings.

Thanks again for your valuable comments.
 

Marcel

Happily retired
Staff member
Super Mod
Awesome. Highly appreciate your time and patience on writing such a big and nice reply. Thank you so much.

You know, I love using the camera in M (Manual) mode. I tried changing the aparture setting, shutter speed, ISO etc. Sometimes I get good photos when taken in sun light but when taken indoor photos with same setting it gets dark. I know I have to explore more settings.

Thanks again for your valuable comments.


What you really have to do is understand how to adjust the manual settings according the the amount of light reflected from your subjects. Read the manual's section about metering the scene and manual use of your camera. If a setting is good outside, it won't be good inside under dim light that is for sure. Once you understand this, the rest will be just practice.
 

skkar_2k2

Senior Member
What you really have to do is understand how to adjust the manual settings according the the amount of light reflected from your subjects. Read the manual's section about metering the scene and manual use of your camera. If a setting is good outside, it won't be good inside under dim light that is for sure. Once you understand this, the rest will be just practice.

Hi Marcel,
Nice to see you here. I m learning now and observing the settings. The major problem is hardly I get time for photography. But you guys are rocking. Learning a lot of tips from you people. thanks
 
Top