PS Elements 11
- Thread starter Lawrence
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shungokusatsu29
Senior Member
It has a Exposure Merge feature (take three exposures, highlight them all, and go to 'Enhance -> Photomerge -> Photomerge Exposure) but it isn't the same as true HDR with Photomatix. I have both and you get a LOT out of Photomatix. Elements 11 can definitely spiff up your pics with the exposure merge though
I'll post a comparison shortly
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shungokusatsu29
Senior Member
The first is Photomatix 4.1 and the second is Elements 11. You don't have many options for Elements 11, but Photomatix has a slew of presets, as well as a bunch of parameters you can tweak
It has a Exposure Merge feature (take three exposures, highlight them all, and go to 'Enhance -> Photomerge -> Photomerge Exposure) but it isn't the same as true HDR with Photomatix. I have both and you get a LOT out of Photomatix. Elements 11 can definitely spiff up your pics with the exposure merge though
I'll post a comparison shortly
Quite pleased with myself as I found that on my own and figured it wasn't quite right but that I was on the right track. So I played around with it, wasn't sure if I should make adjustments to the 3 original RAW files so left them alone.
Merged as above and then made adjustments and this is the result.
The first is Photomatix 4.1 and the second is Elements 11. You don't have many options for Elements 11, but Photomatix has a slew of presets, as well as a bunch of parameters you can tweak
View attachment 57123View attachment 57124
Quite a difference (especially noticeable in the foreground and in the shadows). Thanks for answering. Photomax it will be when I am ready. Meanwhile will play with Elements 11
shungokusatsu29
Senior Member
Atleast with Elements, you still get the "realistic" look to it. Were the 3 files EV spaced out evenly? 2, 0, and -2? I actually use just one file (for time sake and lack of a good tripod) and create two additional exposures (raw format) and merge them. Not sure if this is the same as three separate shots but it works for me! I personally don't like the exposure merge of Elements since I have Photomatix. Definitely check that software out if you are wanting to get into HDR. The photo I posted is with one of the presets.
shungokusatsu29
Senior Member
For sure! Good luck!
Mine was three shots bracketed with -1, 0 and +1 on tripod. Press shutter once and all three images are taken.
Next one will be -2, 0. +2
I enjoyed messing about with it.
Interesting that you use 1 image as I was wondering if that would work. Makes sense to me and clearly it works.
Thanks again Cullen - your input most appreciated.
Next one will be -2, 0. +2
I enjoyed messing about with it.
Interesting that you use 1 image as I was wondering if that would work. Makes sense to me and clearly it works.
Thanks again Cullen - your input most appreciated.
BackdoorArts
Senior Member
Before you dive into Photomatic, take a look at Nik HDR Pro 2 as well. If you are satisfied with what you can do with Photomatix Essentials at $39 then I say go for it. But if you find that you require the additions you get in Photomatix Pro at $99 then I would say that getting HDR Efex Pro 2 as a part of the Nik Suite of tools at $149 is a far better investment as you get 4 other tools, including Silver Efex Pro 2 which is probably the best B&W conversion software out there. Download trials of each and play with them all before plopping down your money. The Nik Tools will work with PSE, LR and PS, so you'll be good to grow.
BackdoorArts
Senior Member
Single image tone mapping can be very useful with some shots. Here's a single frame from an HDR series I shot last week. As you can see in the out of camera photo for the '0' exposure (metered correctly) you've got washout on the back wall and dark shadows elsewhere - a nightmare and not readily salvageable with the regular tools in PSE or PS.
In less than a minute in HDR Efex Pro I can come up with this, and that's without using any of their Control Points to work specific areas and possibly fix it more. It's not done, but it's a far better foundation to start your edits.
From here I could spend additional time in Photoshop (or Elements, or Lightroom, or with Nik Viveza 2) and make it look prettry darned decent, particularly given the horrible lighting. All of the photos not labeled HDR in this post used single image tone mapping to deal with the stark lighting conditions I had inside this old house. It's a good tool to have in the kit.
One thing to realize is that tone mapping can only work with the information your sensor makes available. The D600 used for these captures a remarkable amount of light information and allows for far more adjustment than other cameras I've worked with. DX sensors with smaller pixel sizes may not be as open to corrections like this. But if you can do this with one frame, imagine what you can do with a 3 shot exposure series!
vindex1963
Senior Member
Good info.
Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison.
Huge difference, Jake. Thanks for the comparison. The foreground and walls look great.