Wide angle macro for D50
- Thread starter jplus2
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A telephoto lens is a longer focal length (200mm instead of 20mm), which has effect of zooming in to bring distant things up closer and larger... the opposite of wide angle.
A macro lens has the ability to focus very closely, like the subject being only a couple inches in front of the lens, instead of a couple of feet in front of the lens (focus distance is actually measured more from the rear of the camera, specifically from the focal plane mark just behind the top LCD ... a small circle with a line through it).
Most macro lens have the property of ability to focus close to give a 1:1 enlargement, which (thinking film for a second), means the image is exactly the same size on the film as it is in real life. A picture of a penny is enlarged to be 3/4 inch on the film, same as in real life. 1:1 means the same magnification for digital, we just have no film to take out and examine.
A lens could be both, like the 105mm macro lens.
A 40mm or 60 mm macro lens (in order to do 1:1 magnification) must focus real close, maybe two inches in front of lens. This can be inconvenient, the lens tends to block the light, and it tends to scare away live bugs, etc.
A 105mm macro lens gives the same view from maybe six inches in front of lens, which is a more convenient working distance. Said not to scare the bugs as much.
However, for a wider view, like a table top scene (which is not macro work, but is a common situation), it is very much telephoto, and the longer lens may have to stand back maybe seven feet from the table, which becomes awkward (cannot reach the table to rearrange things, and the room may not have that much working space). So, there are pros can cons about macro focal length.
A macro lens has the ability to focus very closely, like the subject being only a couple inches in front of the lens, instead of a couple of feet in front of the lens (focus distance is actually measured more from the rear of the camera, specifically from the focal plane mark just behind the top LCD ... a small circle with a line through it).
Most macro lens have the property of ability to focus close to give a 1:1 enlargement, which (thinking film for a second), means the image is exactly the same size on the film as it is in real life. A picture of a penny is enlarged to be 3/4 inch on the film, same as in real life. 1:1 means the same magnification for digital, we just have no film to take out and examine.
A lens could be both, like the 105mm macro lens.
A 40mm or 60 mm macro lens (in order to do 1:1 magnification) must focus real close, maybe two inches in front of lens. This can be inconvenient, the lens tends to block the light, and it tends to scare away live bugs, etc.
A 105mm macro lens gives the same view from maybe six inches in front of lens, which is a more convenient working distance. Said not to scare the bugs as much.
However, for a wider view, like a table top scene (which is not macro work, but is a common situation), it is very much telephoto, and the longer lens may have to stand back maybe seven feet from the table, which becomes awkward (cannot reach the table to rearrange things, and the room may not have that much working space). So, there are pros can cons about macro focal length.To add to what Wayne said, you might also find a zoom lens that has a 'macro' setting. It won't get you 1:1 on the sensor. Maybe 1:2 or 1:3. (that would mean image is 1/2 or 1/3 size on the sensor.) Its not really true macro.
If you just want some cheap fun, macro filters will give you a taste for cheap price.
What kind of filters? You could enjoy a circular polarizer filter for some landscape scenes. A neutral density is nice for some very bright situations to slow things down. You should not need any other filters. You may want a UV filter for protection, but that is a never ending debate. Using your lens hoods will provide good protection. Under some lighting conditions, a UV filter can cause some unwanted reflections in your image, especially a cheap one. Its up to you if you want one. I use one one my everyday lens, but on my more special lenses, I do not. No need for any type of colored filters with digital.
If you just want some cheap fun, macro filters will give you a taste for cheap price.
What kind of filters? You could enjoy a circular polarizer filter for some landscape scenes. A neutral density is nice for some very bright situations to slow things down. You should not need any other filters. You may want a UV filter for protection, but that is a never ending debate. Using your lens hoods will provide good protection. Under some lighting conditions, a UV filter can cause some unwanted reflections in your image, especially a cheap one. Its up to you if you want one. I use one one my everyday lens, but on my more special lenses, I do not. No need for any type of colored filters with digital.
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
Welcome to the forum
If you fill out your profile we can better answer any questions that you might have.
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Some useful links
http://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans.../nikon-product-manuals-available-for-download
Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor
Thanks
If you fill out your profile we can better answer any questions that you might have.
You can do that at http://nikonites.com/profile.php?do=editprofile
Some useful links
http://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans.../nikon-product-manuals-available-for-download
Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor
Thanks
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
Macros are good for documents, plaques and art.
What lenses do you presently have for your cameras?
What lenses do you presently have for your cameras?
If you're interested in Macro I would recommend you look at either the Tamron 90mm or the Nikon 105mm. The Tamron has excellent optics but the Nikon is probably slightly better build quality which shows in the price.
You can't really go wrong with the Tamron for the price. These lenses are also nice fastish primes for things like portraits.
You can't really go wrong with the Tamron for the price. These lenses are also nice fastish primes for things like portraits.
Scott Murray
Senior Member
I use the Tamron 90mm on all my macros. Have had no issues with the build quality honestly.
Scott, do you have the newer 90 or the one from a few years back? I think the major difference is external vs internal focus and VC. When I got mine a couple years back, I didn't care for the telescoping body on the earlier 90mm so I went with the Tamron 60mm. I'd probably go with the newer 90 today although I still like the shorter barrel of the 60. I really can't complain at all about the 60, I'm loving it.
Scott Murray
Senior Member
I have the older version, I get used to the telescoping body as thats normally where it stays and I zoom in and out with my body (well I sway when trying to get the shot lol) but so far I have managed some acceptable shots.
Scott, sorry if it came across wrong as I wasn't saying the Tamron is not built well, but the Nikon has the edge. My wife has one and it's a great piece of kit. I certainly wouldn't pay extra for the Nikon.
What lens do you have now? For what you want, you may not need a macro lens at all. Tabletop pieces, wall paintings/plaques; you can usually get those with a regular kit lens. Documents...easier if they hang on a wall rather than flat on a table. Flat on the table and you need a stool or something to get above them and stay square. Hanging on a wall, you can easily back up and do some cropping if need be to get an acceptable enlargement. You would probably want to back up even with a macro lens. If you get close as possible with a macro, it will be very hard to get a crisp picture of writing/text. The depth of field will be very thin and very hard to maintain focus handheld. By backing up, it will be much easier to keep the writing in focus, even if you need to crop some of the background away. Since you are backing up, you have less need for a macro. I'm not familiar with nikon macro converter. I'm thinking that is an extension tube. You could lose your distance focus, that is, with a tube installed you can ONLY focus on close items. Unless you are wanting to do very close up bugs or other tiny things, you should be able to use your 18-55 or whatever came with that camera. Do some experimenting. Keep zoom above 30mm and just get as close as your focus allows and see what you get.
I´m getting into macro, even if I did not foresee that:
Now if you look at that:
1) With a true macro 1:1 I would have missed the antenna´s, lesson learned, you might not always need 1:1. 1:1 means a subject that is not larger then the sensor!
2) your title wide angle macro seems that you missed the point, wide angle is to get as much as possible an overview, macro is to get detail, thus an oxymoron.
3) where a 40mm micro Nikkon is probably excellent for post stamps or coins I do not think you will get a butterfly with it. The distance to your subject is important, more distance means longer focal length.
4) For macro there are a lot of tricks: lens reversal, magnifying rings, extension tubes, lens stacking. It remains that a proper lens is the best for most.
5) Light is very important in macro, you end up quickly with long opening times, so tripods and remote shutters, Macro flashes and light rings, etc ...
6) Depth of field is important, you will end up with focus rails and focus stacking software, ...
Conclusion: Macro is diverse, interesting and technically complicated. You need to try a lot and find your own way. You need to work towards what you want to reach.
p.s.: Start with manual focus on the shortest distance on the lens with highest magnification you have and then crop. It will tell you what you want.
Now if you look at that:
1) With a true macro 1:1 I would have missed the antenna´s, lesson learned, you might not always need 1:1. 1:1 means a subject that is not larger then the sensor!
2) your title wide angle macro seems that you missed the point, wide angle is to get as much as possible an overview, macro is to get detail, thus an oxymoron.
3) where a 40mm micro Nikkon is probably excellent for post stamps or coins I do not think you will get a butterfly with it. The distance to your subject is important, more distance means longer focal length.
4) For macro there are a lot of tricks: lens reversal, magnifying rings, extension tubes, lens stacking. It remains that a proper lens is the best for most.
5) Light is very important in macro, you end up quickly with long opening times, so tripods and remote shutters, Macro flashes and light rings, etc ...
6) Depth of field is important, you will end up with focus rails and focus stacking software, ...
Conclusion: Macro is diverse, interesting and technically complicated. You need to try a lot and find your own way. You need to work towards what you want to reach.
p.s.: Start with manual focus on the shortest distance on the lens with highest magnification you have and then crop. It will tell you what you want.