Remote Shutter Release

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hudson99

New member
Hi everyone,
new member here and first post!
Currently own a D3200 and have recently purchased the remote. Have been trying to take long exposures using the remote, but having trouble with anything over a second coming up with "too Bright" every time, what am I doing wrong? Is there a way to take long exposures without a white mess emerging from the result? (im even taking some at sunset when its not direct sunlight and bright)
 
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Vincent

Senior Member
Hello, welcome.

It would help if you give some examples and exif information.
But generally over exposure comes from the measuring method, if your subject is dark and the environment clear the measuring wrong. The only way might be to do an exposure compensation after you see it is wrong or go to manual and set it a bit under exposed (in raw that is often a good idea).
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
Right, the remote shutter release should not have any effect on the exposure. It merely pushes the shutter button, so to speak.

The exposure is whatever the camera settings discover are in effect at that time. So in this problem situation, walk to the camera, and press the shutter button, instead of the remote. It can only do the same thing, and have the same problem, which you can figure out then. Or, you can see the settings it attempted in the Exif data. We cannot see them from here, you have to look. :)

But if it has range to do it, it should be correct in Auto, A, S, or P modes, assuming it can.
 
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Blade Canyon

Senior Member
You want long exposures to capture motion or something? It simply sounds like you are letting too much light into the camera. If the shutter is open for a long time, then much more light will get in. (One second is a very long time in picture terms.) There are three other adjustments you can make on the camera to try to get the long exposure you want:

1. Change the aperture as small as it will get (which means f22 on most lenses). High number f-stop = a smaller aperture = less light getting in.

2. Change the ISO. That is the sensitivity of the sensor/film to light. High ISO = high sensitivity. Low ISO = low sensitivity, and that is what you need here to use a long shutter speed. Your ISO should be 100 or lower if your camera will allow it. I'm not sure about your body, but some Nikons have ISOs under 100 called Lo1, Lo2. Go as low as possible.

3. Neutral density filters. These are pieces of dark glass you attach to your lens that block the light even more. Like sunglasses. They cut down the light that gets into the camera. If you already have a polarizing filter, for example, that will cut the light more than halfway.

So, set your camera to manual, set the shutter speed to the long exposure you desire, set the aperture to the highest f-stop (f22 or higher). Go in your menu and set the ISO as low as it will go. Do not leave the ISO on AUTO. That should give you a good starting point to make adjustments.

Good luck! When you get that long exposure shot you want, post it for us to see.
 
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hudson99

New member
Thanks for the replies everyone, much appreciated. My technical know how is still developing but I've realised with your help what was going wrong. I was using Aperture priority mode rather then manual, as a result the F setting was being done for me rather then letting me select number that would allow much less light in.
Cheers
Huw
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
Longer shutter speed needs Smaller Aperture or Lower ISO or both

It still has to be meter correctly. If you still can't get what you want then wait till it is darker outside or get a neutral density filter.
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
hudson99 said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, much appreciated. My technical know how is still developing but I've realised with your help what was going wrong. I was using Aperture priority mode rather then manual, as a result the F setting was being done for me rather then letting me select number that would allow much less light in.
Cheers
Huw
Click to expand...

That is still fine but you may not be able to get what you want. What ISO are you using?
 
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hudson99

New member
Well the subject I was attempting to photograph was the Severn estuary in Wales, at 30 minutes prior to sunset. I was using a couple but mainly low ones such as 100-300 as it outdoors and fairly light. Is that correct or way off the mark?
My main aim was to capture the slow tide with a long exposure to create that silky like water affect.
 
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Blade Canyon

Senior Member
That's a great project. You are already thinking creatively, and we're trying to help you get there technically.

Lowest ISO and smallest aperture for now. But if it's before sunset, then you will probably need a filter to block enough light to leave the shutter open for more than a few seconds. Don't be afraid to try it AFTER sunset, however. What looks too dark to your naked eye might look great after a 30 second exposure.
 
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hudson99

New member
Yeh I have a CPL on my D3200, also have a UV filter handy too. Thanks appreciate the help and feedback, check my gallery for a nice day time shot of the same location and you can see where im trying to shoot!
thanks
 
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Blade Canyon

Senior Member
Tracsoft - Don Kuykendall said:
CPL will not help you much at all in what you are wanting to do.
Click to expand...

My point was that a polarizing filter (circular or not) still cuts the light by 1.5 stops, so it's better than nothing if he's trying to reduce light and get a longer exposure. That means he can keep the shutter open more than double the time in order to get his effect.

Definitely not as good as a neutral density filter, but it might be the only thing in his bag.
 
sOnIc

sOnIc

Senior Member
I saw a great video on this yesterday, how to shoot long exposures in daylight. Brent uses a CPL, but more importantly he uses a 10 stop ND filter to extend the exposure time ...: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7BJQxTPf4E
He quadruples the exposure time for a doubling of F-number, from 30secs @ F8 to 2mins @ F16 .. is that the rule?
(I don't have a suitable ND filter so I cant this at the mo)
 
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