Even exposures in strong mid day lighting?

This is something I've been struggling to learn. If you're attempting to capture a landscape where various elements of the photos require a different exposure, how can you get proper exposure? I understand the technique of layering multiple identical photos with different exposures, but this is post-processing intensive, and only works for landscapes (or more so, a scene where the subject doesn't move and you can mount a tripod). I actually shoot mostly climbing photography, which is why the above method doesn't work. I thought this topic would be best answered in landscapes - here's a great example http://www.climbing.com/download/storm-mountain-falls/ Shooting into the sun, with white snow everywhere, the mid ground and back ground are still properly exposed. When I attempt this I often get a background that is far too burnt out. I recently attempted to shoot a mountain scape, where the foreground was a river bed and river, the mid ground was a stand of alder trees, and the background was 3 black peaks and blue sky. The best exposure still left me with the river rocks being burnt out. Is there a better way to do this other than combining images?Thanks! (PS, even though I chose the status of semi-pro, since I have started to sell images, I'm still very much a noob and am pretty much doing the whole 'fake it till you make it' thing I have an assignment to shoot soon and I know I'll keep running into this problem).

My D70 can't, but the D600 I just ordered can...though I've read it only shoots in jpg, and I need to be shooting .RAW

The only editing software I use is GIMP, if that helps. I'm definitely going to look into some HDR tutorials...just googled it and looks promising, maybe I can find something that works for .RAW images also.

My concern with bracketing/HRD and a moving subject however is that the movement of the climber will mean the bracketed shots wont exactly line up...(the climber being in one position in the first shot, then different in the subsequent bracketed shots)

i think hdr is probably the solution you are looking for

one way might be to hdr for the landscape with 3 or 5 photos (up to you)

then just take 1 shot correctly exposed for the climber

then blend the 2 sets together (set 1 = landscape hdr background, set 2 = 1 shot for climber)

and if there's anything left in final picture which you don't like, you can erase away in post processing

p/s - i usually prefer not to overdo the hdr, keeping it natural feels more realistic

What do you use for post processing? Because this would be an easy-peasy fix in Photoshop, one I do this with some regularity in fact.

All you need to is add an adjustment layer, select either the underexposed section (or sections) or the over exposed section (or sections) on that layer, whichever needs the least amount of adjustment, and correct exposure selectively for those sections. Sometimes you need do only one or the other sometimes you need to both. It's simple though.

Have you tried a graduated neutral density filter for your lens? That might eliminate most, if not all, of the extreme differences in exposure leaving little editing. They come in a few different strengths depending upon how many stops difference there is between the brightest and darkest areas of the scene.

as above, possibly a grad ND filter, or why not try a speedlight / flash for some fill in lighting?

Agree with fill flash. Shot this pic Sunday and metered on the sky, using fill flash on subject (my grandson).

Why do you have to shoot in raw? Because alot of people say so.

I agree with Hark. A grad nd filter would be my first choice. Good ones are not cheap. But they are worth thier weight in gold.

I would get a good filter. And practice like hell before my paid shoot.

Lightroom 4 also has an nd filter effect.
Do you have Lightroom?

John P said:

Lightroom 4 also has an nd filter effect.
Do you have Lightroom?

Click to expand...

Personally post processing with a filter effect never gives me a nice image compared to using a proper lens filter

If you are getting paid to do shots then get a decent ND grad filter, or even a set +2 +4 gradient probably with soft rather than hard edge as its more forgiving.

If you are just interested in trying it out then you can get a cheap one from ebay amazon etc to try out.

bechdan said:

Personally post processing with a filter effect never gives me a nice image compared to using a proper lens filter

If you are getting paid to do shots then get a decent ND grad filter, or even a set +2 +4 gradient probably with soft rather than hard edge as its more forgiving.

If you are just interested in trying it out then you can get a cheap one from ebay amazon etc to try out.

Click to expand...

Solid advice.

Thanks a lot everyone, what a wealth of advice so far.

I'll definitely try out a grad ND filter, try getting a cheaper one first to test it out.

I use GIMP for post processing, but am realizing now I'm probably going to have to step it up and use different/more software, or at least learn a lot more about GIMP. So far images I've sold have had very little post-processing, but as I'm getting more serious and wanting very specific shots (like this one) I'm definitely needing to do more.

I'm also definitely going to experiment with HDR for shots from the ground, but when I'm hanging from a rope off a cliff, hopefully the grad ND filter will help.

Also, yes I use an SB-800 flash, and also fill flash sometimes, but mostly for dramatic lighting situations as it often creates shadows on the rock or unnatural lighting, where-as for this shoot I'm going for a natural 'landscape' where the climber just so happens to be in the foreground.

Thanks again everyone!

Krizob said:

I'll definitely try out a grad ND filter, try getting a cheaper one first to test it out.

Click to expand...

Be sure to look closely at any you are considering. Some have a gradient effect so the the light areas blend naturally into the dark while others offer an abrupt line between the light and dark areas of the filter. The gradient type is the better one to own.

In the link I provided earlier, there are also two types of filters: the kind that screw onto the front of your lens and the square kind such as Cokin and Lee. These last two allow you to move the filter up and down inside its holder so you can position the line where you need it. When you use the screw-on filters, the line is pre-set for you. At a minimum, go with one that offers a gradient (where it slowly goes from light to dark) rather than one with an abrupt line.

Kris orb,

When you get your D600 it becomes pretty easy providing you use something like Lightroom and shoot RAW. Use the multi point metering. Then in post processing slide the highlights slider left and the lowlights right. I do this in probably 80% of my photos to retain detail in the detail in the highlights and bring detail out of shadows. The D600 and D800 are incredible for this ability. You can also fiddle with HDR and other modes... But to me that involves too much fiddling, while you can usually just adjust in post processing. Also, make sure you have the highlights overexposure view turned on ( the blinkies ) to make sure you don't loose any highlights. I can shoot into the sunset, and still brighten the dead black shadows to perfectly exposed grass an bushes if I want. Amazing cameras. JD

Btw, I used to rock climb, so, I think the D600 will solve your problems. Note, I have my D800 at EV - 2/3rds all the time. When your hanging taking photos, you'll want the Blinkie screen, the one you review the photo you just took... If any of the highlights are blinking, you can use the E/V knob to go further negative until you don't have any washed out highlights. I can bring back many fStops out of the shadows... Like 4 or 5.!

A neutral density filter mostly darkens everything... The gradient would be a pain... Although a polarizing filter would be really helpful. The sheen off rocks frequently causes the overexposure, so a polarizer will help with everything.