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  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Horoscope Fish's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by hark View Post
    No. Why would I want to do that?
    Color information in a High Pass filter isn't relevant to sharpening and removing the superfluous color-information helps ensure noise isn't increased. Try it and see what you think.

    CMD+Shift+U (for you Mac users) makes it easy, then add your HP Filter.


    › See More: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5
    Last edited by Horoscope Fish; 07-22-2020 at 03:45 AM.
    Thanks/Like hark, Whiskeyman Thanks/liked this post
     
    ~ Paul
    ....
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    Primary Kit :: D850, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 G2, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 G2, Sigma 135mm f/1.8 Art, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art,
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  2. #32
    Senior Member
    Dawg Pics's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by Horoscope Fish View Post
    Color information in a High Pass filter isn't relevant to sharpening and removing the superfluous color-information helps ensure noise isn't increased. Try it and see what you think.

    CMD+Shift+U (for you Mac users) makes it easy, then add your HP Filter.
    That explains the Monochrome option for the HP sharpen in Affinity Photo. Thanks
    "Remember to gaze up at the night sky because there is a little bit of the cosmos in each of us."


    Um yeahhhh, I shoot a lot of pics of my dogs.
    D500 (DOB 05/26/17), D300, D80, SB-800. RIP-D100
    Sigma 150-600mm DG Contemporary, Sigma 50-150mm f2.8, Tamron 28-75mm f2.8,
    Nikkor Nifty-Fifty.

  3. #33
    Staff
    Super Mod
    hark's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by Horoscope Fish View Post
    Color information in a High Pass filter isn't relevant to sharpening and removing the superfluous color-information helps ensure noise isn't increased. Try it and see what you think.

    CMD+Shift+U (for you Mac users) makes it easy, then add your HP Filter.
    Hmm.... But then do I re-saturate it afterwards?
    Cindy - D750, D500, D7200
    Flickr
    and My 2020 Thread

    Where the Spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art
    -- Leonardo da Vinci



  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Horoscope Fish's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by hark View Post
    Hmm.... But then do I re-saturate it afterwards?
    No need to re-saturate since the color information returns when you choose the Blend Mode.
    Thanks/Like hark, Whiskeyman Thanks/liked this post
     
    ~ Paul
    ....
    ....
    Primary Kit :: D850, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 G2, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 G2, Sigma 135mm f/1.8 Art, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art,
    Godox Flashes & Triggers, Manfrotto X055PROB, 3-Legged Thing Airhed II... All Stuffed into a Manfrotto Pro Backpack 50
    ....
    ....
    ● ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ ๑۩۩๑ ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ ●

  5. #35
    Senior Member

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by hark View Post
    Jake, have you ever compared all three - Topaz Sharpen, Shake Reduction, and High Pass Filter?
    I tried using HPF to sharpen ages ago and abandoned it. Shake Reduction I've tried when I needed to save something but I find it cumbersome to get it to work where I want and not where I don't. Topaz Sharpen I've used a couple times and outside of the extraordinary processing times for even a preview on my 2014 Macbook Pro I've found the results to be good enough that I paid for it (as part of a bundle). I don't bother with side by side by sides any more. I know what works for me and go with it. There are people monetizing videos for that.
    Thanks/Like hark, Woodyg3 Thanks/liked this post
     
    Jake
    (formerly backdoorhippie)

  6. #36
    Staff
    Super Mod
    hark's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by Horoscope Fish View Post
    No need to re-saturate since the color information returns when you choose the Blend Mode.
    So would I need to make a duplicate layer to do High Pass Sharpening on but de-saturate first before performing HPS? Then change the blend mode of that layer?
    Thanks/Like Whiskeyman Thanks/liked this post
     
    Cindy - D750, D500, D7200
    Flickr
    and My 2020 Thread

    Where the Spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art
    -- Leonardo da Vinci



  7. #37
    Staff
    Super Mod
    hark's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by BackdoorArts View Post
    I tried using HPF to sharpen ages ago and abandoned it. Shake Reduction I've tried when I needed to save something but I find it cumbersome to get it to work where I want and not where I don't. Topaz Sharpen I've used a couple times and outside of the extraordinary processing times for even a preview on my 2014 Macbook Pro I've found the results to be good enough that I paid for it (as part of a bundle). I don't bother with side by side by sides any more. I know what works for me and go with it. There are people monetizing videos for that.
    Thanks, Jake. I know I've used Shake Reduction a number of times since my 1.7x TC started having problems. It was the only thing that would fix the problem. But then I could go back to Camera RAW and use an adjustment brush to remove excess noise from the background if necessary.
    Thanks/Like Whiskeyman Thanks/liked this post
     
    Cindy - D750, D500, D7200
    Flickr
    and My 2020 Thread

    Where the Spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art
    -- Leonardo da Vinci



  8. #38
    Senior Member
    Horoscope Fish's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by hark View Post
    So would I need to make a duplicate layer to do High Pass Sharpening on but de-saturate first before performing HPS? Then change the blend mode of that layer?
    If I choose to use a HP Filter for sharpening here are the steps I take:

    • Duplicate the Background layer (creating Layer 1)
    • Desaturate Layer 1
    • Convert Layer 1 to a Smart Object
    • Apply the High Pass Filter and adjust the sliders as needed
    • Change the Blend Mode to Overlay or, more commonly, Soft Light
    • Tweak either the HP filter settings, and/or the Opacity, for Layer 1 to taste
    Thanks/Like hark, Woodyg3, Whiskeyman Thanks/liked this post
     
    ~ Paul
    ....
    ....
    Primary Kit :: D850, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 G2, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 G2, Sigma 135mm f/1.8 Art, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art,
    Godox Flashes & Triggers, Manfrotto X055PROB, 3-Legged Thing Airhed II... All Stuffed into a Manfrotto Pro Backpack 50
    ....
    ....
    ● ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ ๑۩۩๑ ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ ●

  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Whiskeyman's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    FWIW, I downloaded Sharpen AI 2.1 yesterday. I didn't use 2.05 enough to compare the two versions.

    WM
    “If you want to be a better photographer, stand in front of more interesting stuff.” - Jim Richardson

  10. #40
    Senior Member
    Whiskeyman's Avatar

    Re: Before and After Example Topaz 2.0.5

    Quote Originally Posted by adot45 View Post
    When I first became aware of the Topaz suite of programs the sharpen AI appealed to me because I think my biggest problem is camera movement. I just can’t hold the camera steady. I really wasn’t sure what the denoise program was for. Maybe it would be really informative for me to d/l the program and run the original photo that I used as my example of sharpen AI and see what the denoise program can do with it....?
    If you have that much of an issue holding the camera steady, you could try using a monopod or/and a tripod.

    WM
    “If you want to be a better photographer, stand in front of more interesting stuff.” - Jim Richardson





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