Exposure compensation and exposure lock

dachshund

Senior Member
I’m having a difficult time determining what metering mode, matrix, center weighted, or spot should be used when utilizing exposure compensation or exposure lock. I’ve read and seen everything I can lay my hands on and don’t seem to come to a decision. I’ve seen info from knowledgeable sources and most explain what these tools are for, but for the most part don’t address my question, or is it specific to particular situations?
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
One thing that might help you decide is to put your camera in auto bracket mode. You can use options of how many pictures to take, and what increment to take them in. When you hit the shutter, it will take all 3, 5, 7 or whatever you have programed in at the fstop increment specified. Later on, you can look at the photos and decide how far off the metering was, and how much is gained by X amount of under/over exposure. It is also helpful in dealing with difficult lighting situations that will not fall into a normal pattern of exposure determination. Of course, This isn't very helpful shooting fast moving subjects where you need to get the right exposure at the moment you first press the shutter.

I normally just use aperture preferred and use matrix metering. I find that digital is much more forgiving of under/over exposure than film, and post processing can produce very good images that are a couple stops off. Not a reason to be complacent, but it is nice to know you can still get good photos when exposure is not spot on. Keep in mind, I am still rather new to the digital world of photography.
 

BF Hammer

Senior Member
The photo composition in the end is what you base the decision on.

Matrix metering is usually best, and the newer the camera the better it tends to work. The camera programming analyzes the scene and tries to make a correct exposure based on what is visible.

Spot metering would be something to try if photos are being over-exposed if the subject of interest is very light and the surrounding scene very dark. A portrait in low-key lighting is an example. You might set to spot metering and use the face as the spot. And that can work in the opposite way too. There was a time with my D80 where I used spot metering all the time when I took photos of my wristwatch collection. But upgrading my camera body after that I mostly stick to matrix metering as it works better than it did on the D80. But if I am low-key lighting with a white dial I certainly switch to spot meter.

Center-weighted is pretty much spot metering on a larger area in the center of the frame. It really is how many auto-exposure film cameras worked early. And if you wanted to meter on a face that will be off to the side, then you would use that Exposure Lock feature to meter the shot and then recompose and focus the way you want.

Exposure compensation can be used with all of these modes. Generally if you disagree with the camera, dial in some negative or positive exposure compensation to fine-tune. It's more of an issue if you are blowing out details in highlights or losing too much detail in a shadow.
 
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