How to capture this kind of photo in sharp focus?

blackstar

Senior Member
Examples of my attempts:
2021-05-09 15.25.29-1-s.jpg

2021-05-09 15.25.29-2-s.jpg

I use AF-C, S-mode with 1/2500, auto iso with +0.7 EV, single-spot (center) focusing area, and burst shots. Usually, I can handle BIF in the sky (slow to moderate fast). In this case, it's quite surprising that this raptor always wants to show its more than kind gesture of posting to my photographing work: after each session of posting, it will suddenly take off DOWN STRAIGHT TO MY FACE! (like I am one of its favorite prey targets) But then quickly turn to a nearby spot to start another posting session again. And on and on... The problem here is that the bird flys direct to the camera lens, so the focusing distance becomes shorter very fast (as compared to the birds fly across the sky that keep relatively small changes in FD). Other than the limitation and performance shortage of D3500, are there other ways (settings or shooting operations) to improve the focus? Appreciate all the help. Below is a kind posting shot of this bird:
2021-05-09 15.26.43-2-nik-s.jpg
 

480sparky

Senior Member
I think you're trying to exceed the ability of an entry-level DX body. Both in terms of if AF module for fast-moving subjects, as well as using a very high (12,800) ISO.
 

cbg

Senior Member
Anything coming directly towards you, especially a bird, is going to be difficult to keep in focus. I agree with what 480Sparky said, you are probably exceeding the capabilities id the D3500, especially the focus capability.
 
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BF Hammer

Senior Member
3D autofocus mode on a more expensive DSLR body. Otherwise it's manual focus short of the bird and do a burst of exposures as it flies at you.

From the Nikon website:
3D Focus Tracking

An invaluable feature for sports, action and wildlife photography, 3D focus tracking, available in select Nikon D-SLRs, automatically shifts the focus point to follow the movement of the subject. With the shutter release pressed halfway, you'll see in the viewfinder the lens continuously maintain focus as the subject moves.
However, maintaining focus doesn't guarantee a sharp image, as there is a short time lag between the release of the shutter and the capture of the picture. To solve this problem, the focus tracking system is a predictive system that uses special algorithms to forecast the position of the subject at the moment the image is captured. The prediction is based on a measurement of the subject's movement and speed.
Simple predictive tracking is very effective for pictures of a subject moving at constant speed toward the camera, but to provide maximum focusing performance for a subject that abruptly changes direction at high speed, or a subject with low contrast, moving randomly, the AF system must accumulate subject location data using multiple focus areas. The AF modules built into selected Nikon D-SLRs have as many as 51 focus areas that can detect vertical, horizontal and diagonal movement of the subject.
To realize high-precision AF for high-speed continuous shooting of a fast-moving subject, the processing speed of the AF cycle is vital. To provide that speed, a Nikon proprietary technology called overlap servo prepares for the focus detection of the next shot while the lens-driving operation for the current shot is in process.
 
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Fred Kingston

Senior Member
You're also shooting at extremely small apertures. I'm sure that lens is experiencing a bit of diffraction that's causing softness also.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, BF. D3500 gives 11 points 3D focusing option. I may try that next time. But I don't like 3D focusing when shooting stationary wildlife as focusing point may drift or shift to side elements leaving main object UN-focused. This is a continuous scene from stationary to moving. Doubt how it will work when scene changes?

Interesting to read your mentioning about tracking focus as detecting moving direction at horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. It seems to cover 2-dimention only (x-axis, y-axis, x-y line). In the case of this bird-fly-to-you scene, z-axis is the key; it's like the bird does not move around much on x-y plane (except its wings), but fast move on z-axis (head, body become bigger and bigger). Does it make sense?
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, Kevin. Can I just turn off auto-iso and set iso like 1600 or 3200 and still shoot in S mode? If yes, camera should open up aperture, right?
 

BeegRhob

Senior Member
I am pretty sure it is your aperture, as Fred has mentioned. I am not sure how this forum works, but the shutter speed is off in all pictures, so your shutter speed is 1/2500, if I am right. So I am assuming your f stop is f2.5 in the second pic. I don't know if the ISO is off in the forum, but I think it is correct, so if you would, look at your EXIF data on your PC or in camera and see what your "exposure triangle" actually is. As Fred said, your aperture is small, number wise, so it would be better more open, larger number. If the f stop is actually f25, then it should have sharp focus nearer and farther, so aperture shouldn't be the issue. If it's f2.5, then switch to aperture priority (A) instead of shutter priority (S) and try F5.6, 8, and/or 11 and see how the sharpness turns out. The higher the number, the "deeper" the depth of field will be. Sooooo, if you do try these apertures, focus on the wildlife with autofocus, and switch to manual focus and don't bump the focus on the lens, lol. You have the (I think it's called) rangefinder in the view finder if you need it. At, let's say, f11, the depth of field should still be good to have sharp focus if it flies toward you. Now, see what your exposure triangle is (EXIF data), and if it has stopped the motion where you like it, you are good to go! If not, you can keep that aperture and switch to full manual, bump the shutter speed faster, and let the ISO go on auto. See how that works. Hopefully, this isn't TMI or tl;dr. ;)

Rob
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
As Fred mentioned, you really don't need to shoot stopped down that far. Using my depth of field app, a 300mm lens on a DX body at f/28 and at 50 feet away (no idea how far you were so took a guess), your depth of field is 9.5+ feet. If further away, the depth of field would be even greater If you want to err on the side of caution, a setting of f/9 at that distance still yields a depth of field of 2' 11" - so almost 3 feet.

You are experiencing the same problem I had when using my D500 with single point for birds. One of the biggest problems is the lack of contrast on the hawk. And because of that, I wound up with a lot of slightly out of focus birds. Try using a different focusing method such as dynamic, group, or 3-D tracking and see which one offers more keepers. Be sure to watch some videos on pros/cons of each focusing method so you are aware of any potential pitfalls. Everything is a give-and-take (meaning there isn't always one best way to achieve great results).

I wonder if the hawk has a nest nearby that might cause it to fly at you.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, Rob. I double-checked all EXIF data and they are all as shown in the Forum. So no need to assume there is any deviation from the actual shooting condition.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, Cindy. Are you suggesting a resetting to f/9 ~ f/11 while still in S mode to bring down iso, rather than turning off auto-iso and setting a lower iso to open the aperture?

The focusing area (single-point vs 3D) issue in this case is not due simply for "birds", but the transition scenes from static to dynamic. If I haven't dumped all those stationary posting shots with 3D focusing area that have bird out of focus but tree branch or leaf in focus, it will be easier to show the situation. So I like to use single-point, yet it's impossible to change to 3D at the moment when the bird suddenly takes off.

Oh, I didn't think about the bird's nest. I thought this one is kind of like to draw my attention and post for me. And the action of "preying on" me is just some show off. Now I think I maybe wrong? But no idea.
 

hark

Administrator
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Super Mod
Contributor
Thanks, Cindy. Are you suggesting a resetting to f/9 ~ f/11 while still in S mode to bring down iso, rather than turning off auto-iso and setting a lower iso to open the aperture?

If single point focus isn't working well (which it hasn't many times for me), change it to either Dynamic or Group and see if one of those offers more keepers. I'd still suggest using Auto-ISO. By opening up your aperture which allows in more light, your ISO will automatically be lowered. I keep my ISO capped at either ISO 4000 or ISO 5000. When I hit it (which I do early in the morning or on dark, overcast days), even dialing in more exposure with the EV button +/- won't increase the exposure any further. Then what's left is an underexposed file that needs to be worked on in Photoshop or Camera RAW. But using apertures in the f/7.1 to f/9 range will allow your ISO to be lower. Yes you might get a little blur on the far side of the bird, but with telephoto lenses, that is usually what happens due to them having a shallower depth of field than wide angle lenses.
 

Needa

Senior Member
Challenge Team
Maybe I'm missing some thing here but if you are using single point, center and continuations you don't have the bird under the focus point. In the second image it appears that only the wing of the bird drops into the focus area of the camera and not near the center point. Looked at the d3500 manual and it doesn't appear that you can show the focus point in play back.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, Cindy. I'll give it a try capping iso to 6400 or 3200 next time. I was wrong earlier about choosing aperture setting in S mode -- can't be done.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Maybe I'm missing some thing here but if you are using single point, center and continuations you don't have the bird under the focus point. In the second image it appears that only the wing of the bird drops into the focus area of the camera and not near the center point. Looked at the d3500 manual and it doesn't appear that you can show the focus point in play back.
Thanks, Needa. You are right and didn't miss a thing here. I use single center point, AF-C, and S-mode. Both "out of focus" images all have focused point at the center of the frame. (I have explained a bit about why I didn't use 3D-multi-point.) I use Rawrightaway.app to view images with focus point/points (red square) shown.
 

hark

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Thanks, Cindy. I'll give it a try capping iso to 6400 or 3200 next time. I was wrong earlier about choosing aperture setting in S mode -- can't be done.

ISO 3200 is too low to cap it. 6400 is okay, but I wouldn't suggest going any higher. And oh...I misunderstood about your S mode. I was thinking single point while you were talking about Shutter Priority. I don't use that mode as I prefer Manual Mode with Auto ISO instead. Flying birds can have the shutter speed set for 1/1600" or a little faster. Birds that are just sitting there without moving can have a slower shutter speed which will also lower your ISO. If you are accustomed to Shutter Priority, then Manual Mode with Auto ISO is very similar. You just set your aperture and keep it there - only change it if you particularly want a shallower depth of field. You set your shutter speed, and the camera will adjust the ISO to balance out the exposure.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Hi Cindy, You have straightened me up a bit about M and S modes! Other than night-sky and moon shootings (add reverse macro), I seldom use M mode, until now when you clear up my mind to re-consider using it more. I think it may help in this case and I'll experiment. Thanks
 
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