Need ur inputs on this pano product

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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
Depending on what photo processing software you use you may not need a fancy pano head. I use Lightroom and hand hold my camera and shoot panos all the time. The software will handle the alignment for you.
 
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D7100-79

Senior Member
Don Kuykendall said:
Depending on what photo processing software you use you may not need a fancy pano head. I use Lightroom and hand hold my camera and shoot panos all the time. The software will handle the alignment for you.
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I'm using Lightroom as well. I don't know anything about panoramic photos but I'm interested about gettin into it. Some of the shots I'm interested are going to be at night so need tripod and a good pano head.
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
D7100-79 said:
I'm using Lightroom as well. I don't know anything about panoramic photos but I'm interested about gettin into it. Some of the shots I'm interested are going to be at night so need tripod and a good pano head.
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With the night shots you will need a tripod but the pano head won't be needed. The problem with panos at night is that there is not enough recognizable things for the software to stitch. You need 1/3 overlap if possible to get a really good pano. Another thing is to shoot in portrait mode so when you lose part of the top and bottom it won't hurt the shot you are trying to get. Pano heads were used back in the days before software got so smart.
 
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pforsell

Senior Member
D7100-79 said:
I am interested in doing some panoramic pics and came across this product. Any of you used this product ? If not what is a good alternative pano head you have come across ? I also plan to buy ball head tripod and L bracket.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1192262-REG/vello_mph_100_freewave_orbit_motorized_pan.html


I'm planing a trip to Step toe butte park in WA to take some pics. And plan to do pano
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I haven't used a motorized pano head and I think that it might be overkill. Sometimes a manual pano head might be useful, though.

I personally use an old Nodal Ninja 3 when shooting in environments where I need to get rid of parallax errors. You don't have to worry about parallax if you are only shooting faraway subjects (remote city skylines, remote shores etc.), but if there's also subjects close by, you need tor find the entrance pupil location of your lens, or the stitching can't be done, or the result will be rubbish.

Here's a list of common entrance pupil locations: https://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database

Nodal Ninja 3 has a scale which makes it trivial to set the camera/lens combo so that it rotates around the entrance pupil and eliminates parallax errors.
 
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