Recommended AF Settings For D90/50mm/Models

Bikerbrent

Senior Member
What AF settings were you using?

Was camera hand held or on tripod?

What shutter speed were you using?

Without any more details, I strongly suspect camera movement or shake. Also, for none fast moving subjects, like portraits, you would want AF/S focus with focus priority. Some samples with EXIF data would help a lot.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
What would be the suggested AF settings for a D90/50mm and doing people from ten to 15 feet away?
This is a gross generalization but on a DX body like the D90 I would use AF-S, with a single focus point. I'd shoot at something around f/4, most likely; keeping the shutter speed at 1/125th or higher (assuming the 50mm focal length as mentioned) and the lowest ISO that supports those settings.
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TKC_D500

Senior Member
This is a gross generalization but on a DX body like the D90 I would use AF-S, with a single focus point. I'd shoot at something around f/4, most likely; keeping the shutter speed at 1/125th or higher (assuming the 50mm focal length as mentioned) and the lowest ISO that supports those settings.
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I would tend to agree with this. I did hundreds of head shots for our annual church directory with my D90 and 50mm f/1.4D, and at f/5.6 they were generally tack sharp.


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Lautermilch

Senior Member
So I have done four shoots since getting the D90 and did notice the AF-S were better focused.
Question: If you were doing the shot below (which is typical of what I do) where would you have the focus point?
On her knee since that is the closet part for the sharpest overall image? I favor f/2.8 on the 50mm. I came to that conclusion after viewing my images in Bridge by aperture.


DSC_0787.jpg
 

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
So I have done four shoots since getting the D90 and did notice the AF-S were better focused.
Question: If you were doing the shot below (which is typical of what I do) where would you have the focus point?
On her knee since that is the closet part for the sharpest overall image? I favor f/2.8 on the 50mm. I came to that conclusion after viewing my images in Bridge by aperture.


View attachment 253144

For me, her knee should not be the closest thing to the camera ... it should be turned to the side. Being straight on to the camera makes the knee look bigger than it is, which is not flattering (IMO, not what I would go for).

Instead, I would still focus on the eyes and set my aperture so that her body stayed adequately in focus.


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Lautermilch

Senior Member
Take II to Stay On Topic

I have done four shoots since getting the D90 and did notice the AF-S were better focused.
Question: If you were doing the shot below (which is typical of what I do) where would you have the focus point?
On her foot since that is the closet part for the sharpest overall image? I favor f/2.8 on the 50mm. I came to that conclusion after viewing my images in Bridge by aperture.

DSC_0207.jpg
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
I want the whole image in sharp focus.
Then you need to use an aperture that gives you a sufficient depth of field to do that.

Since you're shooting DX and using a 50mm focal length, you probably want to be shooting at f/4, or f/5.6; assuming you're 10 feet from you model, but as you get closer to your subject the DoF will decrease. At f/2.8 like you used in the shot above, the DoF is less than 18" (again assuming a distance of 10 feet from your model).
 
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pforsell

Senior Member
Since a lens can focus at one distance at a time, I'd focus on the closest eye when doing portraits. The DOF issue needs to be solved by setting an appropriate aperture.

But no, I don't think focusing on a knee or a foot yields optimal results, even with a deep DOF.
 

spb_stan

Senior Member
I wrote a long post but my internet connection dropped so here is an abbreviated version
Humans, and all animals so far tested, have a high sensitivity for eyes, and can spot eyes much more quickly than other parts of an animal. It is part of our survival evolution. People shot look less real, less personal when the closest eye it not sharp. The rest of the body can be out of focus and the impression is still an intimacy of connecting to another human. A sharp body and not sharp eyes are less engaging for humans. Nail the eye closest and all manner of other options work: sharp body, blurred body, just out of tack sharp body, sharp or blurred background, anything works if the eyes are sharp. If a rear eye is sharper than a near eye, it makes us uncomfortable, but usually do not know why.

Posing is the hardest element of people shooting to master and the one that impacts the impressions most of all. The basics of focus, exposure and DOF are simple, and almost automatic. Creative lighting, and posing are THE differences between a snap shot and portraiture.

The first photos has a few problems what cause it to be less than flattering. The pose compresses the lower body in addition to the compression effect of shooting down on a human body. That gives an impression of more mass and thickness, heavier.
Cameras see the world as a 2 d plane and we see the world with binocular vision that gives a slight wrap around effect so we see a subject as having depth so "see" the plane as not being flat but wrapping around. The flat plane of a sensor gives the impression of being wider for curved objects like a leg or head than we perceive with 2 horizontally spaced eyes. So to give a more similar impression in a 2 d image compared to our vision, we need, as photographers, to trick the viewer into seeing depth or narrowing clues. One way to create the impression of less 2d thickness is to create space between limbs and the trunk. Or to bend joints even a little...wrists, fingers, elbows, tilt of head, flexing a back, creating triangles of limbs and out of optical path of the trunk of the body, and crop where there is an impression of narrowing as the image comes to an edge of the frame.. Shooting down shortens the trunk and legs but does not narrow the width so only really skinny subjects look normal shooting down.
Another issue is any show of pressure or effort is amplified by the camera. To look relaxed, no pressure points should be visible. For example her toes are obviously stressed in that position and there is no way to make them look relaxed while doing that much work. Hide them it that are working or support her so her feet seem effortlessly in contact with the ground. The same applies to touching any part of the body with hands or fingers, very light barely touching is the key to having the fingers look relaxed. A common mistake that is unflattering is to have the subject touch their face with hands. It is possible to be a good pose but only if the fingers show no sign of tension and the face is not indented at all. With our binocular vision that impression is not critical but in a photo that pressure is amplified and looks stressed.
A good way to help visualize what the camera is going to see it simple close one eye and move side to side a little to see how the shape and impression of depth changes by moving your head 1-2 inches. For the same reason of creating depth, few photos look natural in body proportions when straight on to the camera axis. Shape and definition are gained by turning the trunk of the body to an angle. Again, our binocular vision can see depth and shapes of a body while the camera just sees a 2 d flat plane, so we have to give the camera an angle to show curves and contours.
It is not easy to learn posing but that is why those who have developed the skill and ability to direct a subject simply and with confidence are some of the most well paid photographers in the world.

Good luck. If you want to get serious about figure and portrait photography, seeking out a photographer whose work you admire and ask for personal workshop or advice would be well worth its cost.
 
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