Focussing on infinity in the dark with continuous autofocus lens rings

okulo

Senior Member
Ever since I got my first SLR, a Pentax ME Super, I have had a fascination with taking long exposure shots in near darkness. With my D70's lenses, there was still a distance scale on the lenses which allowed easy approximated focussing and the lens focussing stopped at infinity. However, since I bought my D5500, I have encountered difficulty focussing in the dark and I first discovered this during the recent lunar eclipse when the eclipse was total, the Moon was virtually invisible to the naked eye and the camera could not focus on it. Turning the focus ring all the way wasn't an option because the lens I have, the 18-300mm f3.5-6.3 has Buzz Lightyear focussing; i.e.beyond infinity and turning to the lens's soft stop is well past infinity.

I have been seeking a solution to this problem and most answers seem to suggest either using a torch to illuminate a nearer subject or focussing on a distant object such as the Moon, which is OK if it is visible; neither is very helpful for focussing on a distant scene when there is not enough light and no Moon.

I think I may have come up with a workaround. In daylight, I focussed on a cloud and then, using a reference point on the lens, such as the ridges or white lines by the Auto/Manual switch or VR On/Off switch, select the nearest ridge on the focus ring's rubber and then turned the ring past infinity until it reached its soft stop and then counted the ridges on the focus ring back to the reference point, on my lens this was eight. I then unfocussed and turned the focus ring to the beyond infinity soft stop and, using a reference point, turned it back eight focus ring ridges and the lens was focussed perfectly on the cloud.

I had read that the reasoning behind these lenses focussing beyond infinity and have continuous focus rings is to reduce wear on the end stop when the autofocus is searching but also due to inconsistencies caused by changes in temperature on certain elements in the lens. I'm not going to say that I know for a fact that either of these reasons are true but I have tried using the eight ridge rule I have measured and it seems to work consistently and given that I always close the aperture to allow longer exposures, any slight inaccuracy will be buffered in depth of field.

It is an inelegant procedure but quite simple once the initial measurement has been worked out. If anybody else has been looking for a solution to this problem, I hope this works for you too.
 

J-see

Senior Member
I had some issues with night and low light focusing lately and simply tape-fixed some at infinity. About 95% of what I use them for is infinity focused anyways.

It's not an elegant but nonetheless a practical solution if you have other lenses in your bag for those other shots.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
@okulo
Have you ever tried using the hyper-focal distance from a chart? There was a thread on here some place where someone had a DOF app which gave the hyper focal distance for various lenses and aperture settings. Like focus on a tree at 40' which would give a complete DOF needed for infinity (of course the lens, say 300mm and aperture, say f22 would be plugged into the chart). I want to say it was @Don Kuykendall or [MENTION=13090]Horoscope Fish[/MENTION] was playing with it.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
However, since I bought my D5500, I have encountered difficulty focussing in the dark and I first discovered this during the recent lunar eclipse when the eclipse was total, the Moon was virtually invisible to the naked eye and the camera could not focus on it.

For subjects like stars, simply use Live View, and zoom in greatly (viewfinder zoom, not lens zoom) until you can see some stars. Manually focus for best sharpness of those stars seen. Worked for lunar eclipse too.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
For subjects like stars, simply use Live View, and zoom in greatly (viewfinder zoom, not lens zoom) until you can see some stars. Manually focus for best sharpness of those stars seen. Worked for lunar eclipse too.

I have tried that with limited success. The Live View is very touchy (sensitive or maybe just slow reacting) for me when focusing manually on my D5300, even mounted on a tripod. The picture in the Live View looks like me in low light, very shaky. Ha!
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I have tried that with limited success. The Live View is very touchy (sensitive or maybe just slow reacting) for me when focusing manually on my D5300, even mounted on a tripod. The picture in the Live View looks like me in low light, very shaky. Ha!

OK, so what is an alternative? :) A bit of practice can help. Yes, it is very touchy, the slightest difference is something else.

Making a mark at infinity is also still always a slight touch away. And Milky Way shots need wide angle, which on many zoom lenses, is a very different infinity mark than telephoto.

Focus needs to be seen. Zooming Live View can see even some stars.
 
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MartinCornwall

Senior Member
As WayneF said manual focus (manual everything at night) zoom in on a star in Liveview and focus manually. Don't assume the infinity mark will get you sharp focus. On my Tokina 11-16mm sharp focus is on the right hand side of the infinity mark.
 

okulo

Senior Member
Any permanent or semi-permanent mark is going to be of extremely limited use as as soon as the focus ring goes beyond its soft stop, the mark will be redundant.

Tape fixing at infinity is not possible on the kind of lenses I am taking about either because the camera will still autofocus on my lens even if I am holding the focus ring.

I used to do mental depth of field calculations when I was still using film as it was more critical than these days when photos can be reviewed immediately rather than have to wait until they came back from the lab. I appreciate your advice but now that I have worked out a method, it is pretty simple to employ - I can even do it in the dark by touch after a bit of practice.

I also forgot to mention that I use the AE-L/AF-L button to focus rather than the shutter release button to prevent accidental automatic focussing.
 

okulo

Senior Member
I think you are missing the point, there is no infinity mark on lenses with continuous focus rings.

As WayneF said manual focus (manual everything at night) zoom in on a star in Liveview and focus manually. Don't assume the infinity mark will get you sharp focus. On my Tokina 11-16mm sharp focus is on the right hand side of the infinity mark.
 

wornish

Senior Member
Live view just works for me. Manual focus is the best way. No auto.
zoomed in - yes you get a bit of vibration even on a tripod, but just be patient and it stops after a few seconds. When taking moon shots I use zoomed live view until the craters are crisp the shoot using a remote release, cable or wireless.
 

Blade Canyon

Senior Member
Why not focus on infinity during the day, then dab some whiteout across the gap of the focus ring and the lens body? Then line those up at night when you can't see to focus. I suppose with a zoom lens this might not work at all focal lengths, but if you're trying to shoot the moon, you will probably shooting at the longest zoom length anyway.
 

okulo

Senior Member
I think that the folk who have made this kind of suggestion can't have lenses with continuous focus rings because the suggestion would only work if a) the focus ring was never turned past either of the soft stops and b) autofocus was NEVER used again.

Once the focus ring has been turned past a soft stop (on my 18-300mm, there is approximately 190º between them), any mark made will no longer line up with the lens's internal focus mechanism.

And if you ever use autofocus again - even just touch it - the same will happen because whilst the internal focus mechanism moves, the focus ring does not. For this reason, any suggestion which involves taping the focus ring is also invalid.

These limitations/problems are the reason I posted my experience and workaround. I don't want to appear rude but I can't keep responding the same point over and over again.

If you have an autofocus lens with continuous focus ring, try out your suggestion and then point your camera at a nearby object and autofocus. Observe if the focus ring turns as the camera focusses. If it does, then it does not have the problem which I was trying to overcome; if it doesn't, align the markers you have made and unless you have got very lucky on autofocus roulette, the camera will not be focussed on whatever it was you used as a marker reference. Maybe some (especially non-Nikon) lenses have different mechanisms with non-continuous focussing and hard stops. My observations were specific to the 18-300mm f3.5-6.3 and lenses with the same kind of mechanism and not a general 'how to focus on infinity in the dark' guide; see the thread title.

Why not focus on infinity during the day, then dab some whiteout across the gap of the focus ring and the lens body? Then line those up at night when you can't see to focus. I suppose with a zoom lens this might not work at all focal lengths, but if you're trying to shoot the moon, you will probably shooting at the longest zoom length anyway.
 

RobV

Senior Member
Perhaps you need to get a different lens w/o a soft stop focus ring?

I just got my first lens with this feature: the 35mm 1.8. Freaked me out! The 18-55 kit lens did not have this feature.
 

J-see

Senior Member
Perhaps you need to get a different lens w/o a soft stop focus ring?

I just got my first lens with this feature: the 35mm 1.8. Freaked me out! The 18-55 kit lens did not have this feature.

Yeah; personally, except for moon shots, I never do night or low light with anything else but primes that open wide. It makes LCD focusing much easier if you can open to f/2.8 or wider and you really want to soak in as much light as possible during the duration of your shutter.
 
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