Hey guys, I'm relatively new to photography and I had a few questions. I know what both shutter speed and F stops do and how to use them but I was wanting to know if someone could explain a "general guideline" of distances for example to use what F stop and what general shutter speed scenarios you'd use? Do you guys shoot at 1/60th for still photography, 1/1000 for sports? And for F stops do you use F22 (what my current lens goes to) for long distances and so on. Any help would be great!!!
Help understanding shutter speed/F stop
- Thread starter Chattzx
- Start date
I'm no expert but here's my take on it. In no particular order...
They say that your shutter speed shouldn't drop below 1/focal length (x crop factor). So, of you have a 200mm lens, you shouldn't go below 1/200th of a second (or for a crop sensor half as much as that again, so 1/300s ish). But if you have VR then you can maybe drop that right down by up to 3 or 4 stops - 1/200 > 1/100 > 1/50 > 1/25th etc.
But, that may depend on how steady you are. And don't forget VR won't help freeze moving subjects! So, if you have a fast moving or jittery subject, you want a fast shutter speed anyhow!
Your aperture (F stop) determines your depth of field (DOF), as you know. So a wide aperture (say F2.8) will give a very shallow DOF while a small aperture (F22) will give a wide DOF. Some say not to go too small an aperture to avoid softening of the image due to diffraction. But, if it means you get the shot you want, then I'd say go for it!
Whether your depth of field or shutter speed is the most important depends on what you're shooting, obviously. If I'm trying to catch a bird (on 'film' of course, not literally) then shutter speed is the most important, so I'll personally then go into shutter priority and set a fast shutter. How fast 'fast' is depends on what it is and how much light there is. The faster the better for moving birds for example, even sitting on a branch they can be quite jittery! Aim for 1/500 or as much as you can before having to go to an ISO that'll make the image look poor anyway.
And talking of ISO. They say a grainy image is better than a blurry image and that's very true, but be aware that heavy cropping a high ISO image can be disappointing!
So, I normally walk around on aperture priority, at a fairly wide aperture - my 70-300mm is quite happy wide open - with auto ISO, if I'm just out for a walk with the family. I have my camera auto ISO set to 1/focal length for walk around with the kids stuff.
Perhaps one of my biggest lessons I had to learn was not to compromise shutter speed in trying to get really low ISO! Really, honestly - I was so obsessed with keeping my ISO low, that I had so many ruined blurry shots! Oh, and not to try and under expose to try and keep ISO down either - to keep noise down you want plenty of light on those pixels!
So, for me, to summarise:
* landscape: Aperture priority, F8/F10 (look up hyperfocal distance), let camera go down to 1/focal length shutter speed (unless you're on a tripod of course in which case you can go much slower) and low ISO
* wildlife, kids running about!: Shutter priority >1/500 or whatever you can manage! wide aperture (F2.8 or 5.6 or whatever), high ISO to keep shutter speed up
* portraits: wide aperture, slower shutter would be ok, low ISO
But rules are there to be broken and every situation is different!
I'll stand aside now, so someone who knows what they're talking about can come in...
They say that your shutter speed shouldn't drop below 1/focal length (x crop factor). So, of you have a 200mm lens, you shouldn't go below 1/200th of a second (or for a crop sensor half as much as that again, so 1/300s ish). But if you have VR then you can maybe drop that right down by up to 3 or 4 stops - 1/200 > 1/100 > 1/50 > 1/25th etc.
But, that may depend on how steady you are. And don't forget VR won't help freeze moving subjects! So, if you have a fast moving or jittery subject, you want a fast shutter speed anyhow!
Your aperture (F stop) determines your depth of field (DOF), as you know. So a wide aperture (say F2.8) will give a very shallow DOF while a small aperture (F22) will give a wide DOF. Some say not to go too small an aperture to avoid softening of the image due to diffraction. But, if it means you get the shot you want, then I'd say go for it!
Whether your depth of field or shutter speed is the most important depends on what you're shooting, obviously. If I'm trying to catch a bird (on 'film' of course, not literally) then shutter speed is the most important, so I'll personally then go into shutter priority and set a fast shutter. How fast 'fast' is depends on what it is and how much light there is. The faster the better for moving birds for example, even sitting on a branch they can be quite jittery! Aim for 1/500 or as much as you can before having to go to an ISO that'll make the image look poor anyway.
And talking of ISO. They say a grainy image is better than a blurry image and that's very true, but be aware that heavy cropping a high ISO image can be disappointing!
So, I normally walk around on aperture priority, at a fairly wide aperture - my 70-300mm is quite happy wide open - with auto ISO, if I'm just out for a walk with the family. I have my camera auto ISO set to 1/focal length for walk around with the kids stuff.
Perhaps one of my biggest lessons I had to learn was not to compromise shutter speed in trying to get really low ISO! Really, honestly - I was so obsessed with keeping my ISO low, that I had so many ruined blurry shots! Oh, and not to try and under expose to try and keep ISO down either - to keep noise down you want plenty of light on those pixels!
So, for me, to summarise:
* landscape: Aperture priority, F8/F10 (look up hyperfocal distance), let camera go down to 1/focal length shutter speed (unless you're on a tripod of course in which case you can go much slower) and low ISO
* wildlife, kids running about!: Shutter priority >1/500 or whatever you can manage! wide aperture (F2.8 or 5.6 or whatever), high ISO to keep shutter speed up
* portraits: wide aperture, slower shutter would be ok, low ISO
But rules are there to be broken and every situation is different!
I'll stand aside now, so someone who knows what they're talking about can come in...
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I think you said it quite well.
There are many possible combinations of shutter speed and aperture that will all give the same "equivalent" exposure. But there is more, since each choice is a tradeoff, with repercussions, and as you say, often one factor is more important than the other (this time). One factor might help, like faster shutter speed can help capture motion. But the necessary wider aperture can limit depth of field, which may or may not matter more (for this specific scene in front of us). Or higher ISO might help both, up to a point.
Either a slow shutter or high ISO, or a wide open lens can help dim scenes, but each can have bad effects. So we have to consider, for this scene in front of us now, which might help more than the other one could hurt? Which factor is most important for our consideration? We probably decide differently in a dim room, or out in the bright sun.
In a pretty short time, this choice will be easily based on a little experience, knowing what we can expect from high ISO, or from a slow shutter speed, or from a wide aperture, etc.
A pretty good book to help beginners get the proper ideas is Peterson's Understanding Exposure. Not expensive at Amazon, and it is in the public libraries here. Not deep, it is a quick simple pleasant read about these choices.
Great answers above, I can't add much. But... in reading your question I worry that you don't fully have the f-stop concept nailed down. For instance you ask if f22 would be good for long distance. That's not how it works.
F-stop controls the amount of light so of course it must be balanced with shutter speed and iso. F-stop also controls depth of field. That is how much of your subject, front to rear, is in focus from the exact point you focused on. At a very low f stop, a thinner section of your subject will be in focus. At a higher f-stop, more will be in focus front to rear. Distance does come into play though. At 6 feet away and a very low f stop, say 1.8, you might only get your subject's eyes in focus. Tip of nose and ears could be blurry. Raising f-stop will get more in focus, but more light or time or iso is needed. But step back to say 20 feet, keep the f1.8, and the entire head will be in focus. I'm making up numbers here so don't worry about the numbers, just the concept.
Here is a video I like explaining exposure and the relationship of shutter, aperture, and iso:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8T94sdiNjc
And once you are good with that, here is a depth of field calculator:
Online Depth of Field Calculator
You can plug in actual numbers and see what the various f stops will do in real situations.
Other than guidelines on choosing a fast enough shutter speed, looking for settings suggestions for various situations isn't going to be too helpful. Start with a fast enough shutter speed, then make a good exposure with that shutter speed and then make adjustments (sometimes compromises) from there get the results you need.
F-stop controls the amount of light so of course it must be balanced with shutter speed and iso. F-stop also controls depth of field. That is how much of your subject, front to rear, is in focus from the exact point you focused on. At a very low f stop, a thinner section of your subject will be in focus. At a higher f-stop, more will be in focus front to rear. Distance does come into play though. At 6 feet away and a very low f stop, say 1.8, you might only get your subject's eyes in focus. Tip of nose and ears could be blurry. Raising f-stop will get more in focus, but more light or time or iso is needed. But step back to say 20 feet, keep the f1.8, and the entire head will be in focus. I'm making up numbers here so don't worry about the numbers, just the concept.
Here is a video I like explaining exposure and the relationship of shutter, aperture, and iso:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8T94sdiNjc
And once you are good with that, here is a depth of field calculator:
Online Depth of Field Calculator
You can plug in actual numbers and see what the various f stops will do in real situations.
Other than guidelines on choosing a fast enough shutter speed, looking for settings suggestions for various situations isn't going to be too helpful. Start with a fast enough shutter speed, then make a good exposure with that shutter speed and then make adjustments (sometimes compromises) from there get the results you need.
I just dont get any of it if im honest, there seems to be just too much to think about in setting a dslr to obtain great quality images, been messing with my d5200 for ages now, every time i read about one part and think im learning, another part throws me off again, why is it so complicated to learn it all. 
Lautermilch
Senior Member
Another way is to study EXIF information on image you took that you like
Adobe Bridge allows you to filter images in a folder based on aperture and shutter speed and many other variables.
There are a number of EXIF viewers on the web for free.
For added fun, put your DSLR in one of its shooting modes and then compare settings.
Adobe Bridge allows you to filter images in a folder based on aperture and shutter speed and many other variables.
There are a number of EXIF viewers on the web for free.
For added fun, put your DSLR in one of its shooting modes and then compare settings.
That's alright if you don't get it all, the best part of having a DSLR is that you don't need to worry about wasting film.I just dont get any of it if im honest, there seems to be just too much to think about in setting a dslr to obtain great quality images, been messing with my d5200 for ages now, every time i read about one part and think im learning, another part throws me off again, why is it so complicated to learn it all.
. I would recommend to you to not learn it all at once, but get down one thing at a time. To do this I would say use the different modes on your D5200. Try out using the A (aperture priority mode) and test out the same shot with different apertures to see the effects. And move on to the different modes from there. The camera will do the rest and you can always look back on what it selected to make the shot work (shutter speed, etc.). That's what I do anyway, and it helps more than you can imagine.
Camera A mode is great advice. Most of our pictures don't have much speed requirement (landscapes, portraits, tabletops, etc), but do have depth of field needs. Those few that do need speed need it, so favor them, but for the rest, just set camera A mode, and set an aperture that fits the need. Then watch what shutter speed is. If objectionably slow, more ISO will help it, up to a point. Or a tripod is a great help too. Hard cases are a bit hard, but most cases are easy.
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Another way of making things simple is to go back to the old ways!
Shoot in manual mode and treat your shots as if you were shooting film by using a set ISO (say 200)
Now the decision is either:
1. Is my shutter speed important or
2. Is Depth of field my priority
If 1 then adjust aperture until exposure is correct
If 2 adjust shutter speed accordingly.
In situations where this doesn't work ie where you want a fast shutter speed and a narrow depth of field then the ISO needs to be pushed up. In "film" days this meant changing to ASA 400 or faster or accepting a blurry photo. Have fun out there folks!
Shoot in manual mode and treat your shots as if you were shooting film by using a set ISO (say 200)
Now the decision is either:
1. Is my shutter speed important or
2. Is Depth of field my priority
If 1 then adjust aperture until exposure is correct
If 2 adjust shutter speed accordingly.
In situations where this doesn't work ie where you want a fast shutter speed and a narrow depth of field then the ISO needs to be pushed up. In "film" days this meant changing to ASA 400 or faster or accepting a blurry photo. Have fun out there folks!
Totally agree on Aperture priority (and auto ISO if you want!) and all the advice above, so don't want to add more confusing options! But I will anyway!
Another way of looking at it would be to leave the camera on Auto or Programme. Then you can look at the photos at the end of the day and see if there's anything about them you'd like to change.
Maybe you'd like more of the image in focus, so you can think - 'ah - I'll try a smaller F Stop next time' (bigger number!)
Maybe the dog you were photographing is a bit blurry - faster shutter speed, so put it in shutter priority and choose a fast shutter
Or the background of a portrait is distracting - try a larger aperture next time.
And try not to take too much on at once. I can tell you from experience it's easy to get in a right mucking fuddle especially if there's a bit of time pressure!
The camera can sort itself out on auto/programme, but it may not choose the combination of shutter speed/aperture that you personally would prefer, so maybe try it on a fully auto mode and enjoy the camera and dip into setting aperture / shutter speed when you find a situation that you think would benefit.
Another way of looking at it would be to leave the camera on Auto or Programme. Then you can look at the photos at the end of the day and see if there's anything about them you'd like to change.
Maybe you'd like more of the image in focus, so you can think - 'ah - I'll try a smaller F Stop next time' (bigger number!)
Maybe the dog you were photographing is a bit blurry - faster shutter speed, so put it in shutter priority and choose a fast shutter
Or the background of a portrait is distracting - try a larger aperture next time.
And try not to take too much on at once. I can tell you from experience it's easy to get in a right mucking fuddle especially if there's a bit of time pressure!
The camera can sort itself out on auto/programme, but it may not choose the combination of shutter speed/aperture that you personally would prefer, so maybe try it on a fully auto mode and enjoy the camera and dip into setting aperture / shutter speed when you find a situation that you think would benefit.
i'd love to be out taking photos and see something good to shoot, and have the knowledge to think i will set the camera to 'this setting', and have a good shot, but it just doesnt happen, i can get some decent photos but it's mostly by chance i think, and then i think whats the point in having a fancy camera and doing point and shoot with pot luck.
wish there was an easy way to grasp the many things that effect the result, so confusing.
wish there was an easy way to grasp the many things that effect the result, so confusing.
watch a bunch of this guy's you tube vids it helped me his book understanding exposure is also great if you can grab a copy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbhpYq3REbM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbhpYq3REbM
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I know what you mean Piliff about going out and trying to find a good photo, I'm having the same issues. Many of my favourite shots are by chance - poppies, of a dandelion with the sun behind etc. Equally, sometimes if I 'have' to go find a shot for a challenge and really think about it, sometimes something good comes out of it and sometimes not!
I actually took the camera out with me this evening to drop one of the kids off as it was around sunset time. But inspiration didn't strike and I didn't take any photos. But you never know!
And not every shot has to be a masterpiece. The more shots you take, the more you'll get used to handling the camera, finding buttons and settings. They don't have to be great photos, but the practice will pay off when that one special moment happens and you happen to have your camera with you!
I actually took the camera out with me this evening to drop one of the kids off as it was around sunset time. But inspiration didn't strike and I didn't take any photos. But you never know!
And not every shot has to be a masterpiece. The more shots you take, the more you'll get used to handling the camera, finding buttons and settings. They don't have to be great photos, but the practice will pay off when that one special moment happens and you happen to have your camera with you!
While you guys are here I could use another recommendation. My camera is the D7200 and I have the Nikon APS-C 35mm lens. I like to shoot a wide variety of stuff from cars to landscapes so I'm wanting another lens at some point preferably full frame lenses so I don't have to buy all new lenses if I ever go full frame. Any suggestions?
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
What's your budget for this? For instance, off the top of my head, I'd would suggest either the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 ED VR or the Nikon 70-20mm f/2.8 ED VRII but they're $2500 lenses. The Nikon 24-120mm f/4 ED VR would be a great lens for your D7200 at around $1400, but it's a DX lens.
....
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Yeah not exactly looking to spend 2500 right now but I wouldn't mind spending in the 1000's or so. I know lenses aren't cheap but I'd just like another zoom lens to add to my 35mm for some variety. Even used or refurbished would be great. Any Tamron or sigma suggestions?
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It is basically very easy. When I go out to shoot, 95% of the time I want to control the depth of field or how much will come out in focus so I place the camera in "A" or aperture priority mode and select the f stop that will give me what I want the picture to look like. Small depth of field with blurred out back ground = using smaller numbers such as F2.8, F3.5, F4. If I want more to come out in focus I use larger numbers such as F11, F16 or F22. The camera will do the rest.
If I have a moving subject or I am using a longer lens I need to use "S" mode or shutter priority and set the shutter speed to 1/500, 1/1000 or maybe even 1/1500 to stop subject movement or camera shake. The camera will do the rest.
At this point when you have either gone to "A" mode or "S" mode and made your choice all you need to do now is point at the subject and press the shutter button.
You can do a lot more variables but this is basically how I shoot and works well for me.
If I have a moving subject or I am using a longer lens I need to use "S" mode or shutter priority and set the shutter speed to 1/500, 1/1000 or maybe even 1/1500 to stop subject movement or camera shake. The camera will do the rest.
At this point when you have either gone to "A" mode or "S" mode and made your choice all you need to do now is point at the subject and press the shutter button.
You can do a lot more variables but this is basically how I shoot and works well for me.
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
The Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD. Superb lens that goes for about $1,400 with a US warranty; about $1,000 for a gray market version.
The Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD. A really nice lens that goes for about $1,400 with a US warranty; about $1,000 for a gray market version.
Prices are from memory.