Sharpening in Post Processing

Lawrence

Senior Member
Can anyone point me to where I can learn about sharpening in PP with Camera RAW?

My specific quest is to find out what to look for when sharpening. I don't understand "radius" and how the slider effects it. Should I be increasing or decreasing radius etc.?

Clarity on "luminance" and "luminance detail" as well as the "colour" and "colour detail" sliders would all be much appreciated.

I don't know exactly what I am looking at or looking for.

And before you ask - YES I do magnify to 100%

Many thanks you clever nikonites from one not-so-clever (but very-keen-to-learn) nikonite.
 

Skwaz

Senior Member
Good stuff Lawrence , me too can't wait for replies although I don't have
camera raw or fancy PP , really need to know how to use what I gave
especially Sharpening which seems to be near the top of the PP charts
Looking forward to answers
 

Skwaz

Senior Member
Good stuff Lawrence , me too can't wait for replies although I don't have
camera raw or fancy PP , really need to know how to use what I have
especially Sharpening which seems to be near the top of the PP charts
Looking forward to answers
Great post
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
If you google this phrase sharpening in camera raw videos you'll get just slightly over 200,000 videos and articles and "How to"s

I recommend starting with the first hit which looks like an Adobe article that explains about 90% of what you need... :)
 

Philnz

Senior Member
Can anyone point me to where I can learn about sharpening in PP with Camera RAW?

My specific quest is to find out what to look for when sharpening. I don't understand "radius" and how the slider effects it. Should I be increasing or decreasing radius etc.?

Clarity on "luminance" and "luminance detail" as well as the "colour" and "colour detail" sliders would all be much appreciated.

I don't know exactly what I am looking at or looking for.

And before you ask - YES I do magnify to 100%

Many thanks you clever nikonites from one not-so-clever (but very-keen-to-learn) nikonite.
That could me me talking. thanks for asking this ???? look forward to some answers
 

WayneF

Senior Member
Can anyone point me to where I can learn about sharpening in PP with Camera RAW?

My specific quest is to find out what to look for when sharpening. I don't understand "radius" and how the slider effects it. Should I be increasing or decreasing radius etc.?

Clarity on "luminance" and "luminance detail" as well as the "colour" and "colour detail" sliders would all be much appreciated.


There are a few things to realize. Luminance is a Noise Reduction, not sharpening. It is in fact a blurring operation, which hides noise pixels. So, pay attention to what you're doing. :) No blind adjustments.

There is lots of info online, go with that. But...

Nobody listens, but sharpening should be done LAST, the final operation (later, at use time), and specifically honed for the output you are about to do. If you sharpen early, just because you can, then at final time, this may involve resharpening, etc. Should be done last, once, when you know what your use needs. Specifically, after the final resample to final smaller size. There is really no point of sharpening a 24 megapixel image. :) You can't use it that way.

Printers print at about 300 dpi, where the video screen is more like 100 dpi. These are different. One size does not fit all. Viewing 100% does not take that into account. You should view it (or check it) as it will be used.
But a video image might be 1000 pixels wide. To print 8x10 might be 3000 pixels wide. These are different.

My notions:

USM Radius is how much it widens the edge. Too much can obscure fine detail. I would suggest around 1.0 for video (maybe 0.6 if much fine detail, to maybe 1.5 if little, but 1.0 is good compromise). More Radius is sharper, but coarser edges, more visible. 1.0 does NOT mean 1 pixel.

And maybe up to Radius 3.0 for printing (1.5 to 3.0). Because printing prints many more pixels in the detail. You have to actually print it to see it, video shows pixels differently (but yes, you do learn what is needed). Again, one size for all is NOT optimum.

Then Amount, often 80 is good. 90 is getting to be a lot. You NEVER want to make the enhanced edges visible, or sharpening noticeable, you just want it to look a bit sharper.... and natural.

I set threshold to 4 or 5, for no good reason.

For video, since they have to be sized smaller, I mostly never sharpen for video, and simply only depend on Adobe BiCubic Sharper, set to be automatic in its resamples. Seems adequate. But a little more can be added time to time.
 
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Lawrence

Senior Member
Thanks guys.
Checked those out - watched and read and am a little bit - but not altogether - wiser.

What I did learn is there is no sharpening in RAW at all and as I shoot in RAW only this is good to know. I also learned that Camera RAW will sharpen and suggest (by using the settings) what it thinks is a good level. Kinda useful to know that if I mess it up I can default and it is acceptable.

Best way to learn is to experiment.
@WayneF I don't do any video so does your "sharpen at the end" advice hold true for photos?
 

WayneF

Senior Member
Thanks guys.
Checked those out - watched and read and am a little bit - but not altogether - wiser.

What I did learn is there is no sharpening in RAW at all and as I shoot in RAW only this is good to know. I also learned that Camera RAW will sharpen and suggest (by using the settings) what it thinks is a good level. Kinda useful to know that if I mess it up I can default and it is acceptable.

Best way to learn is to experiment.
@WayneF I don't do any video so does your "sharpen at the end" advice hold true for photos?

There is no sharpening already in the Raw file, but ACR does always apply a small default amount of sharpening (third tab) when you process.

Yes, sorry, I only meant photos. When I said Video, I meant still photos to be in JPG files and shown on the computer video monitor, or maybe HDTV (but as opposed to printing on paper).
 

Carroll

Senior Member
Nasim Mansurov explains much of what you ask about in the article below. I am trying to learn about the very things you mention, and this article, as well as his other tutorials, have helped me to understand the basics of a lot of things. I like the way he explains things...simply.

Even if you do not use LR, the basics are pretty much the same in most PP software...kind of.

Lots of good info on Photography Life, IMO.

How to Properly Sharpen Images in Lightroom
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
I think it was one of the Hippies that did a nice video explaining the USM and sharpening. It is in the forums someplace, I just don't remember where. Ha!
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
I'll just toss out for those using NIK Tools there the "Detail Extractor" filter listed under Color Efex Pro that is fun to work with and Jake suggested in one of his threads to try Jimmy McIntyre's PS Powerpack Actions which has a really neat sharpening tool that automates most of the process. I've used several of these "actions" now and it's hard to believe they're free. Actions are about the greatest thing to come along since sliced bread.

....
 

wornish

Senior Member
As you are finding out there are a lot of videos and articles on this. I was like you to begin with and didn't understand how radius and the other sliders affect sharpening.

I came across this video which for me explains a lot in a simple easy to understand way with real examples. Its based on Photoshop not Lightroom but it does show you what to look for and how to avoid overdoing it as lots of people tend to do. (I was guilty of this, and still get tempted some times) . Watch it all the way to the end for his last tip its worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOeZD8ZKCjQ
 
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J-see

Senior Member
I've been toying quite a bit until I found the method that works for me. Now I'm no expert of sharpening so there might be better methods but until I stumble upon those, I stick with this.

I was thinking about drawing when playing around in PS and wondered what would happen if I'd take some of that to sharpening. Basically when using the High Pass filter, I use it as if I'm drawing an image. The first is the rough sketch, the second is fine-tuning that sketch while the third is inking or putting an emphasis on details.

I create three copies of my background in PS, disable the top two and then put a high-pass on the first. That one is generally wide in pixels (often around 40) but I tried to avoid the halo effect. Once applied, I use soft light overlay and lower opacity to <40%. The next I use a high pass at half the pixels of the previous (20 if the other was 40) and apply it as a vivid light with opacity <40%. The third again halves the previous (10) and I apply as hard light and again blend in <40.

Exactly how much opacity I use depends on the specific image and can go from 40 down to even 10%. It's testing what works best but I always use hard on top of vivid on top of soft light. If I only use two high pass, it's still always hard on top.

After that I often use one of these presets:

Free Download - Sharpening Lightroom Presets

But I still adjust them to my liking and most important, clean up the noise. Then last I export with some sharpening.

It works for me.

Pre-sharpen:

187.jpg

Post-sharpen:

187-Edit.jpg

To add: if I want parts softer or if there are spots I need to erase, I already work at that by using the eraser on the high-pass layers.
 
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Lawrence

Senior Member
As you are finding out there are a lot of videos and articles on this. I was like you to begin with and didn't understand how radius and the other sliders affect sharpening.

I came across this video which for me explains a lot in a simple easy to understand way with real examples. Its based on Photoshop not Lightroom but it does show you what to look for and how to avoid overdoing it as lots of people tend to do. (I was guilty of this, and still get tempted some times) . Watch it all the way to the end for his last tip its worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOeZD8ZKCjQ

What a great video. Learnt more in that than anywhere else but now have a headache trying to remember it all.

What is becoming clear to me is that something with more power than PSE11 (provided always that you use the functions) will be a great benefit.
As an example PSE11 is limited to 8 bits - 2 weeks ago I had no idea what this even meant! :)
 
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