July 4 Fireworks first (failed) attempt - need tips and suggestions

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi everyone,

I hope you have a wonderful July 4. I shoot the firework for the first time on July 4 in a friend's rooftop in Jackson Height, Queens, New York. I followed the tips from Nikon, https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-a...-techniques/taking-pictures-of-fireworks.html , using Nikon D200 and Nikkor 24-120mm f/3.5-5 lens, setting the shutter speed to bulb (I don't have remote cable so I used hand to control the shutter bottom) , ISO:100, f/11 and I placed my camera on a tripod. However, it turned out the photos weren't good. Some are overexposed, and some blurred. I also don't know how to compose the photo. Is there a suggesting time I should leave the shutter speed on? I wonder what steps went wrong. Is it because I leave the shutter time too long? How to create other effects with firework lights? Advice and suggestions are sincerely welcome. Please see photo below with my notes:

1. This is the rooftop view around 7:30 pm where I set the camera to shoot firework later. The view outlooked East River where the fireplace took place. Question: The screen shows the exposure is correct. However, the photos look underexposed. In this case, should I increase the exposure to 1 or 2 degrees so the lavender will have the right exposure?

DSC_2732.jpg

2. Question: why is the building become blurred even I placed the camera on the tripod?
DSC_2737.jpg

3. This photo is probably the best photo I get from the shoot. I pressed the bottom for 3-5 seconds. However, I don't think the composition is quite right?

DSC_2748.jpg

4. Same question as photo 3.
DSC_2762.jpg

5. This time I pressed the shutter bottom for around 8 seconds, it turned out to be overexposed.
DSC_2767.jpg

Thank you so much for your time reading my post. Any advice and suggestions are welcome.
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
First, you can set a D200 in increments to 30 seconds...
Second, None of the pictures you posted are anywhere near the times that you said... Image #5 is actually about 47 seconds... Not anywhere near the 8 seconds you thought it was...
 

wordlesstu

Senior Member
First, you can set a D200 in increments to 30 seconds...

Thank you so much. Do you mean instead of bulb, should I set it to 30 seconds?

Second, None of the pictures you posted are anywhere near the times that you said... Image #5 is actually about 47 seconds... Not anywhere near the 8 seconds you thought it was...

I didn't set the timer so I thought it was only 5 seconds.

Thank you so much for the tips!!
:cheerful:
 

480sparky

Senior Member
My method is to use a tripod with a semi-rigid head. This allows me to move the camera a bit, but it will stay solid when I quit pushing on it.

When I stop moving the camera, I have it aimed in the general direction I think the display is going to burst. I don't try to frame anything, I just use a wired remote to open the shutter and let the burst happen, then close the shutter. Framing is done in post by rotating and cropping.

I use manual exposure. Auto exposure just doesn't work as it will meter a black sky, and the display will be horribly over-exposed.

I also pre-focus and turn off autofocus as the widely-varying light will mess up any AF attempt.

ADanceofLight_4871post.jpg



GrandMix_4934post.jpg



Warp8MrSulu_5011post.jpg



One trick I used one year was to start with the camera set to minimum focus, then bring the lens into focus while the shutter is open.

FlowerNo1_4924post.jpg


FlowerNo7_4978post.jpg



And with a bit of post work:

Grand%20Finale%20Post.jpg
 

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi yes, I used a tripod, but it doesn't work well obviously. I don't know why it all got blurred.

Thank you so much for your tips!
:cheerful:
 

480sparky

Senior Member
The camera can't just be mounted on a tripod. The tripod must not allow the camera to move. Especially when the shutter is open for several seconds.
 

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Thank you so much for your tips. I think the tripod I had wasn't that steady and it doesn't have the rigid head. Oz


The camera can't just be mounted on a tripod. The tripod must not allow the camera to move. Especially when the shutter is open for several seconds.
 

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Your photos are amazing!!

My method is to use a tripod with a semi-rigid head. This allows me to move the camera a bit, but it will stay solid when I quit pushing on it.

When I stop moving the camera, I have it aimed in the general direction I think the display is going to burst. I don't try to frame anything, I just use a wired remote to open the shutter and let the burst happen, then close the shutter. Framing is done in post by rotating and cropping.

I use manual exposure. Auto exposure just doesn't work as it will meter a black sky, and the display will be horribly over-exposed.

I also pre-focus and turn off autofocus as the widely-varying light will mess up any AF attempt.

ADanceofLight_4871post.jpg



GrandMix_4934post.jpg



Warp8MrSulu_5011post.jpg



One trick I used one year was to start with the camera set to minimum focus, then bring the lens into focus while the shutter is open.

How do you do it ?Do you mean refocus again while you depress the shutter?

FlowerNo1_4924post.jpg


FlowerNo7_4978post.jpg



This one is amazing!!!
And with a bit of post work:

Grand%20Finale%20Post.jpg
 

nickt

Senior Member
I think even a good tripod will shake if you are holding your finger on the button during the entire exposure. If I did not have a remote, I would go with manual mode and let the camera do the timing by setting a long shutter speed. Then you will only shake the camera when you first touch the button. It is not the best, but your hand will be off the camera for most of the exposure. A 5 to 10 second exposure timed by the camera is a good start.

You can practice on just a regular night scene without fireworks. Start with iso 100 and a 5 second exposure at f14 and see what you get. Lower the f stop if the result is too dark. If it is too bright, I probably would lower the time rather than going above f14. Get a feel for the settings needed to make a nice night scene with the buildings just barely visible. For fireworks, you can try it right there or you can tighten the aperture to black out the scenery and get better exposure on the fireworks. Practice night scenes a few times and you will be able to quickly react to fireworks and find good settings easily. You could also find a city street and practice getting car light trails.
 

Woodyg3

Senior Member
Contributor
If you were holding the shutter open with your finger on the shutter release, it is nearly impossible to avoid camera shake. A wired remote shutter is $10 or so, and will help a great deal. The first time is always a learning experience. :)
 

wordlesstu

Senior Member
I think even a good tripod will shake if you are holding your finger on the button during the entire exposure. If I did not have a remote, I would go with manual mode and let the camera do the timing by setting a long shutter speed. Then you will only shake the camera when you first touch the button. It is not the best, but your hand will be off the camera for most of the exposure. A 5 to 10 second exposure timed by the camera is a good start.

Thank you so much for the tips!

You can practice on just a regular night scene without fireworks. Start with iso 100 and a 5 second exposure at f14 and see what you get. Lower the f stop if the result is too dark. If it is too bright, I probably would lower the time rather than going above f14. Get a feel for the settings needed to make a nice night scene with the buildings just barely visible. For fireworks, you can try it right there or you can tighten the aperture to black out the scenery and get better exposure on the fireworks. Practice night scenes a few times and you will be able to quickly react to fireworks and find good settings easily. You could also find a city street and practice getting car light trails.


This sounds about right. I will practice shooting the night scene. :eek:
 

mrcoomes59

Senior Member
04dff13c6d5f9ed9cde5f81846b5dfd0.jpg
b8d28bad0677fc208b5e969c1e88c833.jpg
3dfcecf7eee0beb481c0a99ee700f807.jpg
f980564be803fcb940a8f737c0c219c7.jpg
e0c7a59f3249de788b3d6105abcbe5de.jpg


I tried a different technique this weekend where you start out of focus and then focus. It’s not the best I’ve seen, but I guess they turned out okay.


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