Flash Modifiers for Portraits

hark

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A few of you may remember I was asked to photograph a coach's t-ball team in action. Now the coach asked if I do sessions. ::what:: My response was what type of session? (I can be pretty dense at times)! :shame: Family sessions was the reply. Me: Well...umm...no.

I told her I really have no experience and she'd be better off as there are a number of people who do that type of photography. She said, I don't trust a lot of people, but I really like what you do. It ended with me telling her she should check around and find someone.

In the meantime, I really would like to delve into portraits and would like to practice with dolls and/or stuffed animals for starters. What I need are some type of modifiers to use with my Nikon flashes. I have the SB-910, SB-700, and two SB-28 units. I am not looking to get strobes at this time. I also have at least 3 light stands with sandbags, a backdrop stand, multiple backdrops, triggers, flash meter, and one Godox 47" softbox with a removable grid. And packed away somewhere are 2-3 white umbrellas from around the year 1999 that might be yellowed from not being used. :beguiled: Back then, I used 2-3 wired strobes a handful of times which have been packed away for 18 years in a room that hasn't been climate controlled so I kind of doubt they will even work now. Really need to relearn this and find out info on other types of modifiers, too, because all I used back then were 2 umbrellas.

I'm just looking for something basic to modify my flashes that will light a family. At this point, I don't know how many people that entails. I don't think a softbox will allow even illumination of a large group. What type(s) of modifiers will work with flashes? I know the Strobist web site has info but am just trying to narrow down which type of modifier will be best suited for a group...and I'm assuming some smaller group shots as well (mom/son).

I'm not too concerned about posing since I have tons of info for that. Just need to figure out the best way to sculpt the light. I honestly don't know anything about other types of modifiers so am hoping to be pointed in the right direction. Am I looking at umbrellas, soft boxes, or something just to put directly over the flash head? Once I narrow down which type of modifier to use, I can take it from there. Preferably something that doesn't cost a huge amount for now--maybe no more than $100?
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
you dont need strobes at all. I sold 3 of my 1200w/s monolights. they offer nothing of value to my work. everything I do, is with speedlights. I have 8 and they do it all.

umbrellas are the way to go to light a bigger group. depends also where its going to be. if youre doing it in a small white walled area, you can just bounce the light. softbox are excellent for 2-3 people no more.
kiss is the way to go here. use a small lighting ration of a stop between the 2 flashes. depending if youre using a backdrop or not, you might consider a backdrop light, maybe gelled, and a kicker, backlight for accent and hair separation.

btw what about transceivers? you have a flash clamp with umbrella hole?
 
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RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Yup, what rocketman said. No need for strobes just to shoot portraits. I use speedlights and they work work for events/weddings.

I've got a couple large soft boxes for situations where I need to control light spill more, but more often than not I'm going with umbrellas for key and fill light.
 

hark

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you dont need strobes at all. I sold 3 of my 1200w/s monolights. they offer nothing of value to my work. everything I do, is with speedlights. I have 8 and they do it all.

umbrellas are the way to go to light a bigger group. depends also where its going to be. if youre doing it in a small white walled area, you can just bounce the light. softbox are excellent for 2-3 people no more.
kiss is the way to go here. use a small lighting ration of a stop between the 2 flashes. depending if youre using a backdrop or not, you might consider a backdrop light, maybe gelled, and a kicker, backlight for accent and hair separation.

btw what about transceivers? you have a flash clamp with umbrella hole?

Yup, what rocketman said. No need for strobes just to shoot portraits. I use speedlights and they work work for events/weddings.

I've got a couple large soft boxes for situations where I need to control light spill more, but more often than not I'm going with umbrellas for key and fill light.

Thanks for the info. Guess I need to pull out my white umbrellas and see if they are discolored from almost 2 decades of no use. ;)

Here's another question...I have one of these Godox S-Type bracket. Do I need something else to hold the umbrellas? I know I'll need to get more brackets. If this isn't the best option, what type would work for umbrellas while also holding a flash unit?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1342131-REG/godox_s_bracket_for_bowens.html

1497979262000_1342131.jpg
 

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Thanks for the info. Guess I need to pull out my white umbrellas and see if they are discolored from almost 2 decades of no use. ;)

Here's another question...I have one of these Godox S-Type bracket. Do I need something else to hold the umbrellas? I know I'll need to get more brackets. If this isn't the best option, what type would work for umbrellas while also holding a flash unit?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1342131-REG/godox_s_bracket_for_bowens.html

View attachment 288779

That should work. I've got a similar bracket from Adorama. The bottom of the Bowens ring has a hole for the umbrella stem to go through, with a clamp screw behind the mount.

I usually use a basic Manfrotto bracket if all I need is an umbrella. Something like this:

Manfrotto_026_026_Swivel_Umbrella_Adapter_1285018298000_546375.jpg

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...o_026_026_Swivel_Umbrella_Adapter.html?sts=pi

But for what you need, your current bracket should work without needing to buy anything else.
 

hark

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That should work. I've got a similar bracket from Adorama. The bottom of the Bowens ring has a hole for the umbrella stem to go through, with a clamp screw behind the mount.

I usually use a basic Manfrotto bracket if all I need is an umbrella. Something like this:

View attachment 288780

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...o_026_026_Swivel_Umbrella_Adapter.html?sts=pi

But for what you need, your current bracket should work without needing to buy anything else.

Thanks, Charlie. I do have a similar bracket to the one you posted so I know it should work for an umbrella. The Godox S-type bracket doesn't show any images of it being used with an umbrella. I specifically wondered about that hole--if it was designed for an umbrella. I'm surprised B&H doesn't show the Godox bracket being used with an umbrella. Quite often they will grey out any accessories that don't come with the actual item when they show something in use. Thanks again. :)
 

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Thanks, Charlie. I do have a similar bracket to the one you posted so I know it should work for an umbrella. The Godox S-type bracket doesn't show any images of it being used with an umbrella. I specifically wondered about that hole--if it was designed for an umbrella. I'm surprised B&H doesn't show the Godox bracket being used with an umbrella. Quite often they will grey out any accessories that don't come with the actual item when they show something in use. Thanks again. :)

Apologies for the poorly lit cell phone pic... :)

Bowens.jpg
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
that bracket will work just fine. the umbrellas should be fine. I have photoflex 42" umbrellas that are old. they are very white still after many years of use in weddings. the spines are a bit bent as theyve been blown over in the wind when shooting families outdoors even when using a sandbag. but ive bent them back and they fold and work just great.
 

spb_stan

Senior Member
Those Bowens universal flash mounts are really handy, rugged and versatile. I have 6 of them for 6 speed-lights. I built my own strobes 10 years ago and used those at first with good success but when flash became so powerful, I got a Sigma flash that worked well until it didn't. I contacted Sigma and their tech was very helpful sending me a new flash autoformer that was open. that was 7 years ago and still on my todo list. I bought a SB900 when the Sigma was down and that just became my main light. Slowly I added 2 more SB900s but SPxxx are expensive, $1800 for 3 of them. To add more lights I went to the Yongno 568ex and found them to be very close to the SP900 performance and well made so added 2 more. All my current controllers are in the Yongnuo 622 series, 6 transceivers and 1 622 Tx transmitter. They work like a charm. The flash fully replaces the strobes in portrait work but a large group the are more limited, particularly when outdoors in daylight unless close to the subjects. For a group, the sources have to be further away for even light across the group so outdoor daytime group shots are iffy. Indoors where there is no need to overpower the sun, 3 are plenty. Umbrellas work but if your space has bounceable surfaces in a neutral color, you can get very even light by bouncing to the rear ceiling/wall seam. Don't use bounce to a spot mid-way between the camera and subjects, it can cause dark shadows in the eye sockets. A lot depends on the background. You have the basics but specific suggestions are only valid with the room and conditions known.
 

SHAkers718

Senior Member
you can get very even light by bouncing to the rear ceiling/wall seam. Don't use bounce to a spot mid-way between the camera and subjects, it can cause dark shadows in the eye sockets.

By "rear" do you mean the subjects' rear (catching the falloff) or the photographer's rear, creating the bounce back on front of subject? If so, does the photographer block some of the bounce?
 

spb_stan

Senior Member
Hi Shakers718
I was referring to the rear of the room so light would reflect off the corner created by the wall and ceiling junction, which reflects off each other and and it becomes very defused, adding in the side walls bounces as the light moves towards subject, reducing shadows and since the path is longer, the light falling on the subject is less but it is also much less in change in intensity for subjects on second rows or not aligned along the same focus plane. That is due to the inverse square law that says the falloff will be less per unit of offset if the subject is further from the light source. In this case much of the light is coming from the rear ceiling. A light source closer means rear rows will have a low lower exposure level than the front row. The photographer in the way should cause no reduction in light level or should not create shadows due to the delusion of the light bouncing from multiple surfaces and coming from different angles. A point source, like the sun, will have very pronounced shadow but will also be a poor quality of light for portraits.
 
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