Macro adventure begins

blackstar

Senior Member
Hi,

I am starting my macro adventure now while being still a newbie on everything in photography. My experiments start with simple equipment and tools (totally non-pro): d3500, 18-55 mm kit lens, 55mm reverse ring, 3 tube extension set, tripod, and short plastic stem (stick) from a cotton swab.

The First experiment was to evidently verify I can make a macro shot using the reverse lens setting: 1. A normal (non-reverse) P mode shot (35mm focal length and 15" focusing distance) of my computer screen, 2. A reverse manual mode shot (35mm f.l. and super short focusing distance) of a spot from the same computer screen. These two shots were by handheld and the aperture was open wide by finger holding the aperture pin. The result:
2021-01-27 13.46.09-s.jpg

2021-01-27 13.53.02-s.jpg

The macro shot was dark as iso was set 100 (no good for macro shot) and focus unsatisfying (handheld). But nonetheless it did show a macro effect rendered from the setting.

Then several live subjects (cactus, paper text, etc) were tried and failed totally -- either poor lighting or focus issue.

Finally, I figured handheld and finger aperture are not to cut. A piece of plastic stem from a cotton swab was stuck into the aperture pin slot to keep wide open and a tripod (without rail) was in to help stability. Had to keep bumping up iso from 100 to 6400 to get acceptable images. The issue of razor-thin DOF made post focus stacking a requirement. That added the already hard part of focusing an even harder task. Tried moving the tripod (without rail) or moving the subject won't help any and can get to the point of changing composition. Accidentally, I tried moving the zoom ring, and it worked smoothly changing the focusing plane! However, the 18-55mm zoom length does not cover enough macro DOF in the case of a coin used in the experiment, as you can see the focus plane does not reach to the rear end of the coin.

2021-01-27 16.38.04-s.jpg

2021-01-27 16.38.37-s.jpg

2021-01-27 16.38.53-s.jpg

2021-01-27 16.39.13-s.jpg

I am considering to add: a 58mm reverse ring for the 70-300mm long lens, a 55mm-58mm coupling ring to hook two lenses, and a focusing rail. And maybe going up to flower or insect for next experiment. All comments and advice are welcome and appreciated.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Question for all: For the coin shots, each has own different focusing plane but do they have different compositions (subject size or relative position)? Do you think the focus stacking can be done with these shots? Thanks
 

Dangerspouse

Senior Member
Question for all: For the coin shots, each has own different focusing plane but do they have different compositions (subject size or relative position)? Do you think the focus stacking can be done with these shots? Thanks

Focus stacking can certainly be done here. It's a great tool for macro if you can't get your desired DOF.

Do you have a remote shutter release, either cable or IR? Either one would help immensely.

I have had good results throwing as much light as possible on my macro subject if I'm in a studio setup. Also, if you're not comfortable using full manual mode, consider either Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority rather than P. I used to use Shutter Priority on my D3300 when I first got it, making sure to get enough light in and letting the camera determine aperture. But Aperture Priority to determine desired depth of field also worked pretty well, so I suggest trying both and seeing for yourself.

This was the setup I first used, and still use occasionally:

SAM_0702.JPG

I also attached a ring light to the front of the lens, but you'll probably have to skip that if you are reverse mounting your lens:

Nikon with Ring Light.jpg

That light tent, with lights included, cost me about 40 when I ordered it from Adorama in 2017. The small table top tripod was another 20, and is indispensible.

Again, my advice is to put as much light on your subject as possible when doing macro. And don't forget the Active D Lighting adjustments you can make in-camera, also. Especially at first when you're doing this, it can be very helpful for bringing out details when there is high contrast like this.

Good luck, have fun, and post pics as you go along!

:)
 

Peter7100

Senior Member
Hi,

I am starting my macro adventure now while being still a newbie on everything in photography. My experiments start with simple equipment and tools (totally non-pro): d3500, 18-55 mm kit lens, 55mm reverse ring, 3 tube extension set, tripod, and short plastic stem (stick) from a cotton swab.

The First experiment was to evidently verify I can make a macro shot using the reverse lens setting: 1. A normal (non-reverse) P mode shot (35mm focal length and 15" focusing distance) of my computer screen, 2. A reverse manual mode shot (35mm f.l. and super short focusing distance) of a spot from the same computer screen. These two shots were by handheld and the aperture was open wide by finger holding the aperture pin. The result:
View attachment 351661

View attachment 351662

The macro shot was dark as iso was set 100 (no good for macro shot) and focus unsatisfying (handheld). But nonetheless it did show a macro effect rendered from the setting.

Then several live subjects (cactus, paper text, etc) were tried and failed totally -- either poor lighting or focus issue.

Finally, I figured handheld and finger aperture are not to cut. A piece of plastic stem from a cotton swab was stuck into the aperture pin slot to keep wide open and a tripod (without rail) was in to help stability. Had to keep bumping up iso from 100 to 6400 to get acceptable images. The issue of razor-thin DOF made post focus stacking a requirement. That added the already hard part of focusing an even harder task. Tried moving the tripod (without rail) or moving the subject won't help any and can get to the point of changing composition. Accidentally, I tried moving the zoom ring, and it worked smoothly changing the focusing plane! However, the 18-55mm zoom length does not cover enough macro DOF in the case of a coin used in the experiment, as you can see the focus plane does not reach to the rear end of the coin.

View attachment 351663

View attachment 351664

View attachment 351665

View attachment 351666

I am considering to add: a 58mm reverse ring for the 70-300mm long lens, a 55mm-58mm coupling ring to hook two lenses, and a focusing rail. And maybe going up to flower or insect for next experiment. All comments and advice are welcome and appreciated.

Congrats on your first macro shots. Great results!
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
Finally, I figured handheld and finger aperture are not to cut. A piece of plastic stem from a cotton swab was stuck into the aperture pin slot to keep wide open and a tripod (without rail) was in to help stability. Had to keep bumping up iso from 100 to 6400 to get acceptable images. The issue of razor-thin DOF made post focus stacking a requirement.

I've never done focus stacking or used a reverse ring - but it leaves me wanting to ask why are you keeping the aperture wide open then wanting to focus stack those images? :confused: Why not stop down for better depth of field in each image then focus stack those images into one for the greatest amount of depth of field?

And what is the macro effect you mentioned that you are trying to achieve?
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, everyone.

Dangerspouse, your macro rig setup looks great and real pro, but I'm not yet at that level and only wish being soon. BTW, I don't have real macro lenses (yet) and d3500 has such many limitations that using reverse macro actually a very painful and tedious operation if successful: no AF, no aperture control, ... nonetheless, your tips and advice are well taken.

Cindy, the main reason to keep aperture wide open in reverse macro is better exposure to get more light. I know there are other pro and con (especially shallow dof), but on my first try I just want to catch macro images (even with thin dof). I reckon that's why those pro macro guys often take 50, 100 shots and focus stack them for a seamless macro image, not just couple shots. As macro effect goes, it's actually not a photography term. It should be more like a "micro (or magnify)" effect as what you can see through a microscope. Just want to verify my reverse setting can make macro shots and go on.

In my coin series, I find a fault of my own: instead of moving camera I turn the zoom ring to focus each different shot. Although the focus plane is moved in super shortness, the composition changes respectively AW. That makes the post focus stacking impossible to achieve an ideal result-- it would fail the "align" step. Also I took shots in random order of focusing planes (not from front to rear or rear to front)-- this would make the "enfuse" confused. All this is revealed as I tried focus stacking in Hugin (see pic). I need a focusing rail for good multi-focus shots.

2021-01-27 16.38_stack_ldr_0000-s.jpg
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor

Dangerspouse

Senior Member
Dangerspouse, your macro rig setup looks great and real pro, but I'm not yet at that level and only wish being soon. BTW, I don't have real macro lenses (yet) and d3500 has such many limitations that using reverse macro actually a very painful and tedious operation if successful: no AF, no aperture control, ... nonetheless, your tips and advice are well taken.

Hi Blackstar - If you're worried that you're not "at that level" yet...I purchased that light tent set ONE WEEK after buying my Nikon. I had zero experience at that point, other than reading articles and watching YouTube tutorials. And do not let the look of that setup intimidate you. It is not "real pro". It's an easy to use and inexpensive consumer setup that works well even for newbies - like I was back then. Obviously it would not be good for insects and other mobile subjects. But for small stationary macro shooting, it's something you might want to consider. It really isn't something too complicated for you. Really!

:)
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Hi Dangerspouse, thanks for the encouraging words. When I said "not at that level", I meant I don't know whole lot about something yet. Usually I like to know at least enough (my term) about something before making a move. But I'll remember your provision of help when the time comes.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
This isn't satisfactory at all, but it's my first macro try off a live insect. As Dangerspouse pointed out, it seems lighting be the worst enemy of macro shots. Also muti-focus shooting is proved to be a very difficult task for macro. The image is a single shot.

2021-01-29 13.50.13-nik2-s.jpg
 

Dangerspouse

Senior Member
I think that's very nice, especially for a first attempt! It certainly looks a lot better than my novice fumblings :encouragement:

A few thoughts:

1. I see you took it at 100th of a second. If your camera was on a tripod and that spider was not moving (ie: dead), try using a much longer shutter speed. That will allow you to add more depth of field, and also hopefully lighten the background which I'm guessing should be white. If you're in one of the auto modes, play with the exposure compensation setting as well. Take a few shots and adjust as you go along.

2. If that spider is not moving, and your camera is on a fixed base or tripod, focus stacking is super easy - and no rail needed. Use manual focus, and focus on the closest leg to you. Take the shot. Then focus on something just behind that leg. Take the shot. Keep doing that until you've got everything from the closest to farthest objects. (Do not use Auto ISO!) It will work great, you'll see.

3. Do you know the technique of putting the camera in Live View, then hitting the magnifying glass button to zoom in on a point and then focus on that? That's one of the best techniques you can learn for getting sharp macro pictures if the subject is inert, especially for focus stacking.

Keep it up, you'll get this nailed down in no time!

:)
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Hey Dangerspouse, Thanks a lot for the encouragement and insightful thoughts. Here are responses to your thoughts:

1. Yeah, I have been thinking about downing speed to 1\80... But the truth is the spider is live and keep moving (escape from my shooting it :( and my camera is on tripod, but at clumsy site and unstable position, and lens is reversed with no contact to body, so manual focus is the only way. No AF, no other modes than M, no aperture control from body. Very lousy situation.

2. I think I can do the multi-focus shooting on a non-live or stationary object without a rail, but not on a live, moving subject (not even with a rail). Any idea of an interesting (stationary) thing to do this other than a coin? Not flower season now I guess.

3. Magnifying glass sounds interesting and helpful. I'll try it. The thing is that macro shooting is now my only occasion to use Liv view (except preview images) and it draws a lot and very fast power from a battery. I just put a full battery and only take about 50 macro shots using Liv view and it turns empty! I don't know how far can go playing the magnifying glass...

After the first run of spider, I put some extension tubes between body and reversed lens. It does increase magnification, but it worsens lighting too. I definitely need some LIGHT. I like the ring light on your camera lens. Is it even possible to find a ring light used on a reversed lens
?
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
I took the liberty of downloading your photo and opened it in Camera RAW (same tools as Lightroom). Take a look at your histogram. That area inside the red circle shows you have a great deal of room to increase your whites which will raise your exposure. If you look on the panel, there is a Whites slider. You will want to make sure to have it over towards the right but not to have it clip. I won't go into detail with editing - just giving you a little info so you know you definitely have the ability to edit your image further. :)

1.jpg



After only clicking the Auto button and making a few minor tweaks, this is what I came up with. At some point, most likely you will want to learn more about editing. What software are you currently using for editing?

You will have lots of opportunities to hone your skills. Keep at it!
:encouragement:

2021-01-29 13.50.13-nik2-s edit.jpg
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Thanks, Cindy. I use Darktable, Gimp, and Nik -- all free open-ware. I do spend much time post-processing and still learning. As macro goes, my trouble about lighting during shooting is different from other regular shooting situations -- when shooting macro, you see the lighting is fine in Liv view, make focus, then you take the shot and you see a dark image in the preview! I think this happens to reverse macro only, but not sure if true for a macro lens. Thank you for the P.P. tip AW.
 

Peter7100

Senior Member
This isn't satisfactory at all, but it's my first macro try off a live insect. As Dangerspouse pointed out, it seems lighting be the worst enemy of macro shots. Also muti-focus shooting is proved to be a very difficult task for macro. The image is a single shot.

View attachment 351729

I once read an article on insect macro photography where the author stated that if you get one good result in every hundred shots then you should be pleased. So you have started well as that is an reasonable effort.
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
Thanks, Cindy. I use Darktable, Gimp, and Nik -- all free open-ware. I do spend much time post-processing and still learning. As macro goes, my trouble about lighting during shooting is different from other regular shooting situations -- when shooting macro, you see the lighting is fine in Liv view, make focus, then you take the shot and you see a dark image in the preview! I think this happens to reverse macro only, but not sure if true for a macro lens. Thank you for the P.P. tip AW.

I can only speak from experience with my D750 in Live View - there was a setting I needed to make that allowed Live View to show the actual exposure in the preview mode. Not sure if it's a setting offered in your body. Here's the video for the D750 so you can understand what I mean. It's possible not all bodies offer this option. I really don't know. And as you mentioned, perhaps your issue is due to using a reverse lens.

 
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