Extreme Macro setup 200mm f/4 + 50mm f/1.4

Hello,
Recently I have gotten interested in the idea of extreme macro. Close up photos of a bug's face or the center of a flower are good examples. There are plenty of cool samples online. I read that you could take a macro lens and a prime lens, connect them together via a step down ring and come up with a setup that will allow you to accomplish this super macro. In my case, I am using a 200mm f4 and 50mm f1.4. Here is a link that shows some sample photos and the desired camera setup.
How to Shoot Super Macro PhotosMy problem is that I have G series 50mm which has no aperture lock ring. I have tried attaching it to the camera, setting it to 1.4 and then removing the lens. It doesn't work. The aperture closes as soon as it is removed from the camera. Would a lens with a lock ring be able to cause the aperture to remain open, essentially locked at 1.4? I am looking at the possibility of getting a d series 50mm, if it will work. The draw back is that it is another couple of hundred dollars for an almost duplicate of the lens that I already have.

I am open to other options. I have heard that you can use a extension tube to increase the focal length, but do not know much about it. I am enclosing a couple of my latest macro shots taken with my 200mm.

Extension rings do not change the focal length. They change the distance you can focus at so you get macro out of your lenses. You can stack tubes to get closer focusing and closer macro.

Edit: The lock ring does perform as suggested on my 200mm. I would appreciate conformation that this is also true of the 50mm d series. Don, what tools will get me the shots that I am looking for? Does closer macro mean that I get a more magnified shot? How do these tubes affect the exposure?

On a separate note, my first photo shows a nice informational screen on mouseover... How do I accomplish that for all of my photos?

texaslimo said:

Edit: The lock ring does perform as suggested on my 200mm. I would appreciate conformation that this is also true of the 50mm d series. Don, what tools will get me the shots that I am looking for? Does closer macro mean that I get a more magnified shot? How do these tubes affect the exposure?

On a separate note, my first photo shows a nice informational screen on mouseover... How do I accomplish that for all of my photos?

Click to expand...

https://photographylife.com/what-is-an-extension-tube

I have a set I have not played with much yet but they can go up to 1 to 1 macro which is very close. They do not have any glass in them so I don't think they change the exposure at all and they should work on any of your lenses.

Those are some close shots as they are. May I recommend incorporating an off-camera flash into your setup?

Using extension rings/tubes allows you to focus more closely, which means your subject is at a higher magnification on the sensor.

WM

Don Kuykendall said:

https://photographylife.com/what-is-an-extension-tube

I have a set I have not played with much yet but they can go up to 1 to 1 macro which is very close. They do not have any glass in them so I don't think they change the exposure at all and they should work on any of your lenses.

Click to expand...

Don, There is some light loss when using an extension tube, but the camera can compensate for it if in an automatic mode, and the exposure indicator will work in manual mode, allowing you to adjust shutter speed or aperture as needed, or in some cases, to add light upon the subject.

WM

Whiskeyman said:

Don, There is some light loss when using an extension tube, but the camera can compensate for it if in an automatic mode, and the exposure indicator will work in manual mode, allowing you to adjust shutter speed or aperture as needed, or in some cases, to add light upon the subject.

WM

Click to expand...

I really have not played with mine much yet although I do think mine are fully auto so all the control work correctly. Exposure and focus although I am thinking focus will probably be better in manual.

Don Kuykendall said:

I really have not played with mine much yet although I do think mine are fully auto so all the control work correctly. Exposure and focus although I am thinking focus will probably be better in manual.

Click to expand...

Most would tell you it's better to shoot macro with manual focus, Don. What your auto extension rings give you over the manual ones is aperture control. Most, if not all, manual extension tubes will result in your lens operating at the largest aperture, leading to minimal depth of field.

WM

Whiskeyman said:

Most would tell you it's better to shoot macro with manual focus, Don. What your auto extension rings give you over the manual ones is aperture control. Most, if not all, manual extension tubes will result in your lens operating at the largest aperture, leading to minimal depth of field.

WM

Click to expand...

In shooting macro in the other methods I always focus for myself and I generally use a small aperture so as to get more in focus since the DOF is so very narrow

texaslimo said:

Edit: The lock ring does perform as suggested on my 200mm. I would appreciate conformation that this is also true of the 50mm d series. Don, what tools will get me the shots that I am looking for? Does closer macro mean that I get a more magnified shot? How do these tubes affect the exposure?

On a separate note, my first photo shows a nice informational screen on mouseover... How do I accomplish that for all of my photos?

Click to expand...

I can confirm that my 50mm 1.8D has a static diaphragm... i.e., stays at a dialed F-stop...

The Extension tubes do NOT affect the exposure because there is NO glass... they're just empty tubes that are different sizes.... You're method of connecting the 50mm to the 200mm, even wide open introduces at least 1-stop+ of light reduction...

Not to say the least that an extension tube is only a fraction of what you'd pay for another lens...

FredKingston said:

The Extension tubes do NOT affect the exposure because there is NO glass... they're just empty tubes that are different sizes.... You're method of connecting the 50mm to the 200mm, even wide open introduces at least 1-stop+ of light reduction...

Click to expand...

Extension tubes DO CHANGE THE EXPOSURE. Loss of about 2 stops at 1:1 (because they extend the lens). It is the extension, which is ALSO TRUE of macro lenses at the same 1:1. The camera meter can meter it, but a handheld meter must be adjusted manually. Your f/2.8 macro lens can't do more than about f/5 at 1:1 because of this (technically it is f/5.6 and 2 stops, but they can do some internal focusing tricks).

And marking of f/10 becomes f/20 (at 1:1). The macro lens is designed to show the new increased fstop number with extension (shows new f/20). Extension tubes are also affected but probably can't show the numbers.

This is because extension of the lens DOES CHANGE The focal length. Focal length is distance from film or sensor plane to the second design node in the lens. So any extension increases focal length, even lens extension to focus close at say 4 feet does somewhat. The Marked focal length number is only true if focused at infinity.

fstop number = focal length / lens aperture diameter.
Increase the focal length 2x, and the fstop number goes up 2x. This is a two stop loss of light.



FWIW, if at 1:1 magnification, then (by definition)
the focal length (distance from film or sensor plane to second node in lens)
is equal to
the working distance in front of lens (to first node in lens).

Which is why at a 40mm or 60 mm macro lens only has one or two inches of working distance at 1:1,
but a 105 mm or 200mm has a few times more working distance at 1:1.

Now compare the extension tube with the equivalent distance and a lens in it...

I did today order the Kenko extension tube kit that was referred to in Don's post above. Fred, you are absolutely correct. That new lens would ahve cost me 2-300 dollars, whereas the extension tubes cost me a hundred. I am going to try this route first. If that doesnt work, then I will try again.

Wayne, my brain is still chewing on your post.

P.S. Love your signature line!

I have one of the older AF 300mm f4 from Nikon, the http://nikonites.com/products/telephoto-5/nikkor-300mm-f4-af-367/.
It does have an aperture ring which when unlocked, will stay in place when off the camera.
It uses a body with a built in focusing motor for AF, and does not have VR. It is a nice lens.

Those are some very nice pictures! Enough DOF to get the entire insect and plant in focus.

On a separate note, my first photo shows a nice informational screen on mouseover... How do I accomplish that for all of my photos?

Click to expand...

That information is called EXIF ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exif ).
Sometimes it takes a moment to add that to the image. All three of your shots are showing it now.
There are also situations where post processing removes the EXIF data from the image file.
I have also seen some images on here that had more information than the average file.
This is as much as I have learned in one year.
I also found out this EXIF data can be seen on a Windows photo viewer.
Open an image, click on:
File
Properties
Details

Some of these fields can be manipulated. There are also 5 stars if you want to rate them.

Have fun!