Help with macrophotography on D7100 with 55 f3.5 P.C

gustafson

Senior Member
I finally AI'd my recently-acquired 55 f3.5 Micro Nikkor-P.C so I can venture into the world of macrophotography on my D7100! Until now, I've dabbled very minimally with macrophotography, mainly handheld close-ups with my 18-55 VRII on my D3300, and even briefer dabbling with manual 28F3.5 reverse mounted (with tape!) on a manual 200 F4 Q.

My main interest for now is handheld backyard photography of small insects and flowers. Was looking for input from fellow Nikonites on the following:


  • Resources for beginners in macrophotography - basic do's and don'ts. (If that's too vague, you can instead critique the attached dragonfly pic that I took with the 55 f3.5 Micro on my D3300).
  • Pros / cons of my intended kit: D7100 with 55 f3.5 Micro Nikkor-P.C. I plan to use it with the PK-13 extension tube, and, if needed, with a modified TC-16A teleconverter for added reach and pseudo-AF.
  • Whether other lenses in my kit (listed in my signature) could be used for my intended use, either individually, combined, and with / without the PK-13.
  • What other equipment (lenses / tubes / etc.) I should consider buying if this hobby takes off.

Thanks!

Blue Dasher, Female by p.g.photo.graphy, on Flickr
 
Last edited:

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
One thing you might want to look into is photo-stacking software. Very many times, a macro shot is made of multiple images with a slight shift in focus... the software stacks those images so that all parts of the image are in focus... as an example, in your dragonfly, the head is in focus but his tail is NOT, and neither is his wings.. because of the short DOF at that range. 6 or 7 shots, refocusing on the different parts and then using focus stacking software to stack those images would result in all parts of the dragonfly being in tack-sharp focus...
 

gustafson

Senior Member
Thanks for the tip, @FredKingston! I was wondering how others were getting all of the insect in focus.

A related question on insects: what does it take to resolve the compound eyes of dragonflies, as in this photo? Is it even possible with my intended rig?

https://flic.kr/p/6A1daK


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
That would be the same thing... at those distances, DOF is measured in thousands of an inch... you start by front focusing the image and taking sequential shots, adjusting the focus in until you've captured a 1/2 dozen (or more) sequential shots and then use the software to assemble the shots...

Look into what's called a "focus rail"... at those distances, you don't really adjust the lens, you adjust the distance of the camera.... a focus rail allows you to mount the camera on the tripod, and then by turning a knob on the rail, it physically moves the camera incrementally forward a thousandth of an inch...
 

gustafson

Senior Member
That would be the same thing... at those distances, DOF is measured in thousands of an inch... you start by front focusing the image and taking sequential shots, adjusting the focus in until you've captured a 1/2 dozen (or more) sequential shots and then use the software to assemble the shots...

Look into what's called a "focus rail"... at those distances, you don't really adjust the lens, you adjust the distance of the camera.... a focus rail allows you to mount the camera on the tripod, and then by turning a knob on the rail, it physically moves the camera incrementally forward a thousandth of an inch...

Fascinating! Thanks for letting me know about it.
 

Bill16

Senior Member
I have never tried stacking myself. I might need to try that sometime if I figure out how to do the blending it all together right.:)
 

nickt

Senior Member
I don't know your lens, but here is a dragonfly with the Tamron 60mm. 1/200, F32, handheld with autofocus (af-c single point) and flash. I think it was the on board flash. Its a fairly heavy crop. The tamron is fairly short physically, so I get good luck with the on board light clearing the end of the lens. Some here use homemade diffusers. Try to get as square on to the bug as possible to minimize depth. Also balance backing up and cropping vs getting real close. You will get a larger depth of field by backing up but of course lose pixels in cropping.

I've since learned if I am using flash to get the high aperture, I also need to get my shutter speed up to max sync speed to minimize the effect of ambient light blurring the shot if it is a bright day. If the sun is bright enough, I can get a decent shot without flash, but need a fairly high shutter speed to be sharp and I can't use the way high apertures. Flash is easier. There are some other macros in my gallery, I think they are all with flash and high aperture.

D7K_7356.jpg
 

Marcel

Happily retired
Staff member
Super Mod
One thing I can think of is either a ring flash or a normal external flash with a diffuser. Used in manual mode, this can freeze the moment and help you get a smaller aperture for more dof.
Test, trial and error and you should be able to produce great shots.
 

Bill16

Senior Member
Where can you get this software buddy? Or is it in lightroom or Photoshop somewhere? I might want to try photo stacking sometime with one of my spider subjects!lol :)

One thing you might want to look into is photo-stacking software. Very many times, a macro shot is made of multiple images with a slight shift in focus... the software stacks those images so that all parts of the image are in focus... as an example, in your dragonfly, the head is in focus but his tail is NOT, and neither is his wings.. because of the short DOF at that range. 6 or 7 shots, refocusing on the different parts and then using focus stacking software to stack those images would result in all parts of the dragonfly being in tack-sharp focus...
 

Scott Murray

Senior Member
Here is a link to my macro's that I have done, https://www.flickr.com/photos/scotthmurray/albums/72157631581271704
I think only one has ever been focus stacked (Robber fly) all the others have been single images. I use mainly a 90mm macro lens and even this is sometimes too close to certain insects, what you need is alot of patience and when you approach a bush/shrub wait a minute or so and all the shy critters that you scared off approaching normally come back out if you are still.
I have done a bit of research with macro and different lens combinations which you can find doing a simple 'macro how to' search. I have also designed some different diffusers that are also posted on this site showing their effectiveness.
As you must be aware there are a few very good macro photographers here at Nikonites so search and see what lens combinations they used ;). Macro is a great form of photography.
 

gustafson

Senior Member
Here is a link to my macro's that I have done, https://www.flickr.com/photos/scotthmurray/albums/72157631581271704
I think only one has ever been focus stacked (Robber fly) all the others have been single images. I use mainly a 90mm macro lens and even this is sometimes too close to certain insects, what you need is alot of patience and when you approach a bush/shrub wait a minute or so and all the shy critters that you scared off approaching normally come back out if you are still.
I have done a bit of research with macro and different lens combinations which you can find doing a simple 'macro how to' search. I have also designed some different diffusers that are also posted on this site showing their effectiveness.
As you must be aware there are a few very good macro photographers here at Nikonites so search and see what lens combinations they used ;). Macro is a great form of photography.

Thanks, Scott. Those are some fantastic shots! What the rough split of handheld vs. supported?
 

Ironwood

Senior Member
I agree with Scott, tripods for insect work are a PIA, handheld is the best way to go for live insects. Dead insects would be a different matter, thats where the tripod and rail would come in handy.

Your 55 should do quite well, I mainly use a Nikon AF 55 D f2.8 for most of my macro shots, I find it better for the way I work than my newer and much more expensive Nikon afs 105 f2.8 VR.

You can see some of my shots in this thread, all macro shots were taken with the 55, http://nikonites.com/project-52-s/34650-ironwoods-52-backyard-critters-2016-a.html#axzz49BAccBbE

I have found to get good insect photos you need to use flash and a diffuser, I have made quite a few different types of diffuser, but mostly use a simple foam cut-out AKA "The Scott Murray Diffuser"
 

Ironwood

Senior Member
I should have added in my last post, Dragonflies and Butterflies are more suited to a longer lens that gives you more room to work. If I was chasing them on a regular basis, I would buy a 300mm f4.
 

Ta2Dave

Senior Member
I agree with Scott, tripods for insect work are a PIA, handheld is the best way to go for live insects. Dead insects would be a different matter, thats where the tripod and rail would come in handy.

Your 55 should do quite well, I mainly use a Nikon AF 55 D f2.8 for most of my macro shots, I find it better for the way I work than my newer and much more expensive Nikon afs 105 f2.8 VR.

You can see some of my shots in this thread, all macro shots were taken with the 55, http://nikonites.com/project-52-s/34650-ironwoods-52-backyard-critters-2016-a.html#axzz49BAccBbE

I have found to get good insect photos you need to use flash and a diffuser, I have made quite a few different types of diffuser, but mostly use a simple foam cut-out AKA "The Scott Murray Diffuser"

My bee pics aren't technically macro, since they are heavily cropped. I usually use my 18-55 for bees and bugs. I'm wondering how flash would affect them? It's usually bright and sunny when I'm out snapping pics. Using flash has never crossed my mind...
 

Ta2Dave

Senior Member
I should have added in my last post, Dragonflies and Butterflies are more suited to a longer lens that gives you more room to work. If I was chasing them on a regular basis, I would buy a 300mm f4.

Dragonflies are a pain in the rear! I have noticed they do like to revisit the same spot over the course of a few minutes, and my recent ones were taken with my 70-300.

OP- Sorry, I'm not trying to thread jack, it's just that there are a ton of great photographers here that always have great solid advice and I get easily sidetracked...
 
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