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  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Scott Ramsey's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    Night sports photography
    I appreciate your comments but I just can't seem to get a clean photo, even with your suggestions. If I sent you a raw image and my finished jpeg, would you edit it and see how it turns out? One thing I did not mention is that these photos are all cropped pretty severely, which I am sure adds to the appearance of the noise. I don't want to waste your time but I would appreciate any assistance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
    Meant to be constructive help, please know it's nothing more than that and I can't know everything of the challenges you had at the shoot.

    Couple things I see. The images are being brightened too much and I see blow-out. This is in the evening, but the images have been cranked up to the brightness of heavy overcast.

    Last one has some heavy color cast/WB issues. The others have WB issues as well.

    This image was shot at night on a D600 at night. Don't remember all the settings, but the D600 isn't half the camera the D810 is. I'm suspecting the biggest challenge your facing is editing skills.

    Attachment 304379



    › See More: Night sports photography



  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Moab Man's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    I am leaving out of town until Monday evening in just a couple hours. Sure, send me a raw image or two and I would be happy to play with it. The spirit of this forum is to learn and share.

    Is your monitor a color calibrated monitor for photography? If not, that can certainly be responsible for not seeing the color cast.

    georgepandoff.cip@gmail.com
    D5100, D7100, D600, D750, Df
    Lenses: Nikon DX 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 Di VC USD & 200-500mm
    Prime: Nikon 35mm, 50mm, & 85mm f/1.8G, 300mm f/4
    Wide Angle: Tokina AT-X116 Pro DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8, Rokinon f/2.8 14mm (chipped)
    Macro: Nikon 40mm, Tamron 90mm
    ​Flash: Nissin MARK II Di622
    Stuff: Expodisc Neutral & Portrait
    ​Editing: CS6, CC, Nik Tools, Portrait Pro 12, Topaz
    Spyder4Pro
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/122672034@N04/

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Scott Ramsey's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    Thank you sir and yes it is calibrated but maybe my eyes aren’t lol

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Moab Man's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    A couple tricks I use because your eyes will start to cancel color cast from looking at it too long.

    1. I walk away for 5 minutes, walk into the room without looking at the picture, and then quickly look up and I usually know immediately.

    2. When you are done with an image, crank up the saturation 100% and see if it's not right.
    D5100, D7100, D600, D750, Df
    Lenses: Nikon DX 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 Di VC USD & 200-500mm
    Prime: Nikon 35mm, 50mm, & 85mm f/1.8G, 300mm f/4
    Wide Angle: Tokina AT-X116 Pro DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8, Rokinon f/2.8 14mm (chipped)
    Macro: Nikon 40mm, Tamron 90mm
    ​Flash: Nissin MARK II Di622
    Stuff: Expodisc Neutral & Portrait
    ​Editing: CS6, CC, Nik Tools, Portrait Pro 12, Topaz
    Spyder4Pro
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/122672034@N04/

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Scott Ramsey's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    yes, when I process a rodeo I am looking at 1,000-1,200 pictures and usually end up with 300-400 useable ones so it can play trick on your eyes. Not to mention, I am color blind to some shades and that doesn't always cause a problem except with these night photos and the sometimes horrible lighting, it can cause issues. I usually get my wife to look them over before passing them along but don't always have the time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
    A couple tricks I use because your eyes will start to cancel color cast from looking at it too long.

    1. I walk away for 5 minutes, walk into the room without looking at the picture, and then quickly look up and I usually know immediately.

    2. When you are done with an image, crank up the saturation 100% and see if it's not right.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Moab Man's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Ramsey View Post
    I am color blind to some shades and that doesn't always cause a problem except with these night photos and the sometimes horrible lighting, it can cause issues.
    Here is a perfect solution for you... or at least as perfect as it can get. Been using it for years and swear by it in challenging lighting or in your case being blind to some colors.


    https://www.amazon.com/ExpoDisc-EXPO...00O4CWC4C?th=1
    D5100, D7100, D600, D750, Df
    Lenses: Nikon DX 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 Di VC USD & 200-500mm
    Prime: Nikon 35mm, 50mm, & 85mm f/1.8G, 300mm f/4
    Wide Angle: Tokina AT-X116 Pro DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8, Rokinon f/2.8 14mm (chipped)
    Macro: Nikon 40mm, Tamron 90mm
    ​Flash: Nissin MARK II Di622
    Stuff: Expodisc Neutral & Portrait
    ​Editing: CS6, CC, Nik Tools, Portrait Pro 12, Topaz
    Spyder4Pro
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/122672034@N04/

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    spb_stan's Avatar

    Re: Night sports photography

    What crop factor are you using? Noise becomes much more visible when cropping then displaying as a magnified image. 200mm on a FF camera is not a long reach, a D500 would do this better or renting a larger fast lens for at least one shoot to see the difference it would make. I am assuming it will make a big difference. A 200-500 might be in your future. There are a number of decent telephoto lenses that are no more expensive than the 70-200. You are not getting enough pixels defining the features and the answer is always getting closer and or longer glass. A D850 and D500 both would have more pixels defining each feature than a D810. What proportion of the view finder is the desired subject? For best detail and noise control you really need the subject to fill the screen.





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