Stars with Trails

Melissa Hinton

New member
Hi everyone. I have a D7100 and I'm trying as hard as I can to figure out how to take pictures of stars with trails. I've watched countless youtube videos; I've read several tutorials as well. But I musttbe doing something wrong, because my photos come out pure black. I am using an 18-55mm lens. I don't know what I am doing. I am totally desperate, please help me. I'm a total idiot and this is the first camera I've owned outside of a cellphone and those disposable cameras that were popular in the 80's and 90's. I honestly need a step-by-step, possibly pictures included, to show me what to do as far as the settings go. Pleeeease. Thank y'all :)
 
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J-see

Senior Member
A photo with EXIF data would help indeed.

If you are trying to do it in one shot you need a serious shutter time depending upon the focal length you are using. If you're using the 18mm, you won't see much movement even at 30 seconds of exposure.
 

Scott Murray

Senior Member
Hi everyone. I have a D7100 and I'm trying as hard as I can to figure out how to take pictures of stars with trails. I've watched countless youtube videos; I've read several tutorials as well. But I musttbe doing something wrong, because my photos come out pure black. I am using an 18-55mm lens. I don't know what I am doing. I am totally desperate, please help me. I'm a total idiot and this is the first camera I've owned outside of a cellphone and those disposable cameras that were popular in the 80's and 90's. I honestly need a step-by-step, possibly pictures included, to show me what to do as far as the settings go. Pleeeease. Thank y'all :)

Well it sounds like before you start trying for star trails you need to try for single night images and get them right, as star trails will be a combination of hundreds of those images merged into one.
 

MartinCornwall

Senior Member
As [MENTION=9753]Scott Murray[/MENTION] says. Learn to walk before you run.

But here is some advice. There are no set parameters for night photography, there are just too many variables (light pollution, phase of the moon, location, level of darkness, iso capability of the camera and so on and on). I found with the D7100 the acceptable level of noise is reached at ISO1600 for a 30 second exposure. At a dark site I would start with f2.8, 30 secs, ISO1600. Check the image and adjust accordingly. Use your lens at the widest aperture (f number lowest is widest). Once you get your single exposure sorted then it's time to lock in the remote release and let the camera fire away for as long as you want. 1 - 4 hours is usual. Most Nikon cameras have a 100 shot limit so you will have to unlock and relock your remote to reset this counter. You can do this at any time, preferably mid exposure so you don't get a gap in the trail.
As an example in the image below the settings can vary considerably. The following shot was at f2.8, 15secs, ISO 400. A short shutter and low ISO were needed as the was a quarter moon behind me providing all the foreground light.

148GannelStarTrail59MinsPS2.jpg
 
As [MENTION=9753]Scott Murray[/MENTION] says. Learn to walk before you run.

But here is some advice. There are no set parameters for night photography, there are just too many variables (light pollution, phase of the moon, location, level of darkness, iso capability of the camera and so on and on). I found with the D7100 the acceptable level of noise is reached at ISO1600 for a 30 second exposure. At a dark site I would start with f2.8, 30 secs, ISO1600. Check the image and adjust accordingly. Use your lens at the widest aperture (f number lowest is widest). Once you get your single exposure sorted then it's time to lock in the remote release and let the camera fire away for as long as you want. 1 - 4 hours is usual. Most Nikon cameras have a 100 shot limit so you will have to unlock and relock your remote to reset this counter. You can do this at any time, preferably mid exposure so you don't get a gap in the trail.
As an example in the image below the settings can vary considerably. The following shot was at f2.8, 15secs, ISO 400. A short shutter and low ISO were needed as the was a quarter moon behind me providing all the foreground light.

View attachment 183515

Since you only have the 18-55 and it does not open to f2.8 just go as wide as you can. I don't remember right off but I think at 18mm it is f3.5. You may need to go up to ISO 3200 with that lens


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Melissa Hinton

New member
DSC_1823.jpg


Here's what I had it set on:
18 mm
No flash
Mup

I don't know if I had the shutter staying open or not? I probably should've gotten a less difficult camera to work with to begin with considering I don't even know what all of the buttons are for. I've watched videos about the camera itself, but can't ever remember what they said. it's a lot to take in. I got this camera about a year ago and have barely used it b/c I don't know how to. I don't want to sell it; I know it's a good camera. (The only reason I haven't used it more is b/c I broke my foot and can't walk, it's all messed up...multiple surgeries messed up). I have done some decent pictures (at least I think so, I put some in an album here: LB Photos - Album on Imgur ), but they're just not night time pictures.

unnamed.jpg
 

Melissa Hinton

New member
That is a 1.3 sec exposure so the stars are not going to move in that short of time. Trails are going to be a MUCH longer exposure. You can go 30 seconds and you will get a very short trails. Most people that are doing the very long circular trails are stacking (putting many photos together) to achieve the final results. You are not going to get that in one shot

Photographing the Night Sky: Star Trails from Nikon

Yeah I originally had it at 1/6000 and for some reason when I tried to put it back, it wouldn't let me. :/ I couldn't figure out how to get it back. I tried to use the wheel closest to me (as opposed to the one that changes the aperture), but it wouldnt change. So, that 1.3 is how long the shutter stays open, right?
 
What would be a good starting point?

For movement of the stars? 30 seconds. and even then you are going to get very little movement.

The shot below is 15 seconds and there is no movement of the starts. At 30 seconds the stars just barely elongate but even then you have to pixel peep to see it.

This shot was a few hours south of you at Canyonland National Park

09-07-15_0153-edit-2_canyonland_nikon_d7100_-_15.0_sec_at_f_-_2.8_-_iso_3200_.jpg
 
Last edited:

Melissa Hinton

New member
For movement of the stars? 30 seconds. and even then you are going to get very little movement.

The shot below is 15 seconds and there is no movement of the starts. At 30 seconds the stars just barely elongate but even then you have to pixel peep to see it.

This shot was a few hours south of you at Canyonland National Park

09-07-15_0153-edit-2_canyonland_nikon_d7100_-_15.0_sec_at_f_-_2.8_-_iso_3200_.jpg

Wow that's a really cool picture! So, after I change that am I going to be taking a new picture every 15-30 seconds or do I just hit the button to take one and let it sit there? Last night when I thought I was doing it right, I just put the camera on the tripod aimed up and hit the button. I came back outside after 30 minutes and brought the camera in. Looked at the picture and was like, "Yeah....I'm definitely not doing something right here."
 

Scott Murray

Senior Member
Wow that's a really cool picture! So, after I change that am I going to be taking a new picture every 15-30 seconds or do I just hit the button to take one and let it sit there? Last night when I thought I was doing it right, I just put the camera on the tripod aimed up and hit the button. I came back outside after 30 minutes and brought the camera in. Looked at the picture and was like, "Yeah....I'm definitely not doing something right here."

If you are hoping to do one long shot for star trails you need to use bulb mode and have a shutter cable of some sort that you can lock, otherwise you need to take atleast 100 photos at 30sec to make up your stars and then you need to combine them all using a program like starstax.

Some of my night shots can be seen here - Astrophotography - Night Sky | Scott H Murray Photography
 
Wow that's a really cool picture! So, after I change that am I going to be taking a new picture every 15-30 seconds or do I just hit the button to take one and let it sit there? Last night when I thought I was doing it right, I just put the camera on the tripod aimed up and hit the button. I came back outside after 30 minutes and brought the camera in. Looked at the picture and was like, "Yeah....I'm definitely not doing something right here."

Just hitting the button and walking away is not going to make it. You really have to figure a few things out first. What exposure were you using? Aperture? ISO?

The shot of me with the Milky Way in the background was shot at f2.8, 15 second exposure at ISO 3200. I suggest you go out and play with your camera and do it in a very organized manner.

Set the camera on ISO 1600 - F4 and shoot at 30 seconds.

look at the shot and see what it looks like. Probably going to be a little dark. If I am correct and it is dark then move the ISO up to 3200 and try it again.

Once you see stars and they look good and you still have a dark sky then we can try something new.

You sill need to set your camera to Bulb and have a way to hold the shutter open longer than 30 seconds.

This video will help you understand long exposure a little better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lkk0q_Ujf5k

Now with longer exposures you will need to change your ISO or your Aperture. This is why I suggest you start where I told you to and change things just a little bit at that time to see what happens when you do. A little reading before you start all this would be to read about and understand the Exposure Triangle.

This might get you started https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVjUrY9a9c
 

Melissa Hinton

New member
If you are hoping to do one long shot for star trails you need to use bulb mode and have a shutter cable of some sort that you can lock, otherwise you need to take atleast 100 photos at 30sec to make up your stars and then you need to combine them all using a program like starstax.

Some of my night shots can be seen here - Astrophotography - Night Sky | Scott H Murray Photography


OMG those are gorgeous pictures!!!!

I read somewhere else to use "bulb mode" but I am not sure what that is either lol. I swear I'm not an idiot, I have two degrees and am working on getting my PhD. I'm just an idiot when it comes to photos. Photoshopping on the other hand is a completely different story. I can photoshop anything; I especially love colorizing old pictures. Also, any recommendations on a shutter cable? I have a remote, but I'm guessing that's not going to work....It's just that I travel around so much and see all of these great places, it's a shame that I've not done any night pics yet.
 

Melissa Hinton

New member
Just hitting the button and walking away is not going to make it. You really have to figure a few things out first. What exposure were you using? Aperture? ISO?

The shot of me with the Milky Way in the background was shot at f2.8, 15 second exposure at ISO 3200. I suggest you go out and play with your camera and do it in a very organized manner.

Set the camera on ISO 1600 - F4 and shoot at 30 seconds.

look at the shot and see what it looks like. Probably going to be a little dark. If I am correct and it is dark then move the ISO up to 3200 and try it again.

Once you see stars and they look good and you still have a dark sky then we can try something new.

You sill need to set your camera to Bulb and have a way to hold the shutter open longer than 30 seconds.

This video will help you understand long exposure a little better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lkk0q_Ujf5k

Now with longer exposures you will need to change your ISO or your Aperture. This is why I suggest you start where I told you to and change things just a little bit at that time to see what happens when you do. A little reading before you start all this would be to read about and understand the Exposure Triangle.

This might get you started https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVjUrY9a9c

You answered my last question about the bulb! lol thank you for that video! :)
 
Now for the kicker. Shots over 30 secs are going to get noisy (Grainy) that is just the way it is. That is why eventually to do what you want to do you are going to have to go with Stacking of many photos. there are software programs out there that can help you with this that are specifically designed to just this one thing. Or you can break down and do what most of us do and that is to take the time to study and learn Photoshop. Photoshop can do it but it is not just a push this button sort of thing.

Photography is not a simple thing once you get to this level. It takes patience, study, and hours of practice. I have been doing this for 35 years and I still learn new things every day in photography. If you want quick and easy then buy an iPhone. You have a great camera and it is capable of great things as long as you take the time to learn.
 

Scott Murray

Senior Member
OMG those are gorgeous pictures!!!!

I read somewhere else to use "bulb mode" but I am not sure what that is either lol. I swear I'm not an idiot, I have two degrees and am working on getting my PhD. I'm just an idiot when it comes to photos. Photoshopping on the other hand is a completely different story. I can photoshop anything; I especially love colorizing old pictures. Also, any recommendations on a shutter cable? I have a remote, but I'm guessing that's not going to work....It's just that I travel around so much and see all of these great places, it's a shame that I've not done any night pics yet.

If you do use bulb use an ISO of 100 - 200, yes you will not get as many stars but you will get nice clean noise free images with the brightest stars.

I would suggest reading up on astrophotography and take small steps in getting what you want.
 
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