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Blue439

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Beaulieu-sur-Dodogne (Périgord, southwestern France) Benedictine abbey church. The Ex Libris string trio rehearsing in the transept in preparation for the evening’s concert (2022).

Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8 PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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Blue439

New member
In the abbey church of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Périgord, southwestern France. The stylized letters you see engraved on some stones are marques de tâcherons, or maker’s marks. Stone cutters in the Middle Ages were, like many other trades, paid on a “piecework” basis. With this unique mark they identified the work they had done so that payment could be made without hesitation.

Those marks are also a great way –well, the only way, in truth– to track artisans as they went from one construction site to another.

Beaulieu in the Spring of 2022 was the last place I shot with the Sigma 135mm Art, F-mount, lens. It was a good lens but of course a bit limited in terms of reach... Some of the things I need to shoot in old churches are small and far away! Soon after this, I bought the Nikkor Z 100–400mm zoom, which based on my experience outperforms the Sigma. I never looked back.

Nikon Z7 II, Sigma 135mm, ƒ/1.8 Art lens, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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Blue439

New member
In 2022, I was driving on small, lazy back-country road in the clear light of a June morning in the province of Aquitaine (southwestern France) when I happened, purely by chance, upon this wonderful early Romanesque church built on a hilltop in the middle of nowhere, a few kilometers from the village of Curemonte.

Dedicated to Saint Hilaire (Hillary), this Year 1000 church is referred to as an église-mère (“Mother church”), which is an old way of saying that it was the first church ever built in the area. In fact, archæological research has shown that it is built upon another type of building, possibly a very early Christian baptistry built around the 4th or 5th century, when the region was christianized, or even a Pagan temple of some kind from Gallo-Roman times.

My assessment as an amateur art historian is that the original apse, the three-sided one on the left, is clearly pre-Year 1000 (Carolingian, I would say), while the second, semi-circular one on the right is Romanesque from the early 1000s. It was obviously built later to accommodate a growing congregation.

The walled enclosure behind the church used to be a cemetery, but as I think I mentioned before, most of those cemeteries were decommissioned from the 1870s for public health reasons .

Nikon Z7 II, Nikkor 19mm, ƒ/4 PC-E tilt-shift lens. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head.

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Blue439

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A Romanesque masterpiece

Dedicated to Saint Peter and located on the path to Compostela (and therefore a UNESCO World Heritage site), the Benedictine abbey of Moissac in Aquitaine was founded in the 700s. According to legend, it was founded even earlier, in 506, by the freshly converted Clovis, King of the Franks, but there is no historical evidence that this truly was the case. Affiliated to Cluny from 1047, it became the most powerful monastery in southwestern France and numbered over 1,000 monks —most likely including lay brothers, though.

This abbey is renowned worldwide for its architectural and artistic treasures, the most famous parts being the church’s stunning tympanum and the iconic statue of Saint Jeremy. There are stunningly innovative features everywhere (look at those “scalloped” doors!), and the abbey was on the very first list of Historic Landmarks drawn up by Minister Prosper Mérimée in 1840.

Inside the church (the southern portal with its tympanum is to the right) is a narthex with cyclopean diagonal stone arches that support the Mediæval battlements and the bell tower above. In front of you are the two smallish doors into the nave itself.

Nikon Z7 II, Nikkor 19mm, ƒ/4 PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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Blue439

New member
The Romanesque cloister of the abbey of Moissac (Aquitaine, southwestern France). Built during the early 1100s. You can see that construction uses both brick and stone, and that’s because we’re very close to the large city of Toulouse, where brick could always be produced in large quantities, owing to the ready availability of the raw materials to make it.

You can also see that, in the center of each gallery, there is a large brick pillar, decorated with low relief sculpted stone plates. The sculptures on those plates are famous, as are the historied capitals you can see crowning each column or pair of columns.

Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8 PC-E tilt-shift macro lens, manual focus. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head.

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Blue439

New member
A ghostly church

Still partly shrouded in mist, the ghost–like ruins of the Romanesque priory church of Notre–Dame d’Aleyrac (Drôme region, southeastern France) slowly emerge into the morning light. A sight I will never forget (2014).

Listed in 1904 as Historic Landmark.

Nikon D3S, Nikkor 24-70mm, ƒ/2.8 G lens. Handheld.

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Blue439

New member
The admirable vaulting in the high chapel above the narthex of the Romanesque abbey church of Moissac, southwestern France.

I can just sit there or lie on the floor and gaze at it for hours...

Nikon Z7 II, Nikkor 19mm, ƒ/4 PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light, single exposure.

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Blue439

New member
Author’s pride

This is a very rare example of “author’s pride” at the age of the Romanesque (so, roughly, between 1000 and 1200): a signed capital. One has to understand that, at that time, religion permeated every practical aspect of daily life; thus, people who worked on the erection and decoration of religious buildings were utterly convinced that they worked for and under the watchful eye, of God. Therefore, they were very strongly incited to abide by Christian standards and, say, avoid sinning inasmuch as possible.

Pride being a capital sin, this may explain why the vast majority of the works of art created during that period were not signed. In most cases, we have no clue who designed those magnificent churches or those stunning sculptures. This historied capital is an exception, as it is indeed “signed”.

The small town of Chauvigny in central-southwestern France had a chapter of 10 canons right after Year 1000 (most likely secular canons, as there is no evidence nearby of any cloister or other communal building), but the collegiate church that we see today was not built until the early 1100s. It is dedicated to Saint Peter. Damaged during the Wars of Religion, it was listed as a Historic Landmark as early as 1846 and undertook several campaigns of restoration during the 19th century.

During one of those, in 1856, they thought it would be great to re-paint the inside of the church “just like it must have looked in the Middle Ages”, which is why we have to suffer here too, like in Civaux and unfortunately like many other churches I visited in the old province of Poitou, the gory and cheesy colors and the fake apparel that disfigure the walls, the columns and the capitals.

The decorative program on the capitals includes scenes from the life of Jesus, as well as wild creatures and assorted monsters. This capital here shows Jesus being presented by Mary to the Three Wise Men. However, the reason why it is famous among Mediævalists is because the sculptor has signed his name: Gofridus me fecit, i.e., “Gofridus made me”.

As is almost always the case, and this is one of the great mysteries of the Middle Ages which I already had the occasion to discuss in specialized fora, this Gofridus is not to be found anywhere else on the face of the Earth: he came out of the great big nothingness, having worked nowhere before he was hired to decorate Chauvigny (where did he get his obvious prior experience? no one knows), and after he produced that masterpiece, he dissolved back into the said nothingness and worked nowhere else, even though he now had a major claim to fame and could go on making a very good living as a sculptor in other churches or cloisters that were being built all over France and the rest of Western Europe in the 1100s...

Notice also the hand of God giving the benediction in the upper right hand corner.

Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8 PC-E tilt-shift lens, FTZ II adapter, manual focus. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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Blue439

New member
Two more capitals from the collegiate church of Chauvigny, to illustrate two different aspects of what was expected from this kind of decoration in churches during the Romanesque age.

The first one below is purely didactic. In the Middle Ages, most people, even among the nobility, could not read nor write. Only clerics knew, but also some sculptors who were then not only able to sign their name 😎 , but also to caption their work. This was important because sculpture in general, and capitals in particular, were used to educate the unlearned masses through showing them images. The capital below thus contains a caption that reads Gabriel Archangelus dixit Gloria in excelsis Deo, i.e. “Archangel Gabriel chants Gloria in excelsis Deo”. The canons or the priests could read that caption, so that they would not be mistaken in explaining the image to the parishioners. We are also very lucky that this caption does not contain the sort of abbreviations they were so fond of in the Middle Ages, and which make some writings almost undecipherable!

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The second capital, below, is a good example of imagination of sculptors running wild, like it so often did in those days. Those guys were amazing at imagining monsters they had never seen (for a good reason!) and at depicting them in full action on the stones! Here, we see sphinxes (or more accurately sphinges), themselves formidable creatures, being attacked by other undefined monsters with humanoid faces that are biting their tails. Biting, swallowing and regurgitating –anything one did with their mouth, indeed– were a big part of symbolism at the time. I have an enormous book on Romanesque symbolism which I haven’t dared attack yet, otherwise I would have been able to explain what the sculptor could have been trying to tell us... stay tuned! :rolleyes:

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Both photos taken with Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8D PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.
 
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Blue439

New member
The light in the chapel

Of the three Romanesque churches to be found in the city of Poitiers (central western France), Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand is the grandest. In fact, it is one of the most impressive Romanesque churches I have ever seen. Built between, roughly, 1020 and 1070 on the location where Saint Hilaire (bishop of Poitiers around 350) was supposedly buried and on which an oratorium, then several prior churches had been erected, the church was subject to substantial remodeling during the Gothic period, and then during the “restorations” of the 19th century, with some very unfortunate initiatives. Fortunately the inside kept its Romanesque architecture, its atmosphere and its venerable stones —and above all, this magical quality of the light that can only be found in Romanesque churches.

This photo shows one of the radiating chapels built around the apse. Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand is a major pilgrimage church and on the Path to Compostela, therefore it was essential to ensure a smooth circulation of the very dense crowds that came here to venerate the relics of the saint.

Nowadays, it is very quiet around the old stones, but the light is still there for whoever feels the urge to bathe in it...

Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 45mm, ƒ/2.8D PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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Blue439

New member
The intricacies of Romanesque (2022)

Still in the Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand church in Poitiers, central western France.

Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8 D PC-E tilt-shift macro lens, manual focus, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.

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