My SB-910 needs repair

hark

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I've had my SB-910 for a few years now although it's seldom been used (bought it new). Not long after I bought it, I left the batteries in it for a few weeks. Unfortunately the Duracell AA batteries leaked causing corrosion on both ends of the terminals. :( After cleaning the terminals, the flash wouldn't come on when using Duracells but did for the Eneloop AA batteries. So I used it as it was with Eneloops without any trouble.

A few months back while in my local camera store, I commented about the problem, and one of the employees told me to bring it in. He had some type of cleaner that worked really well. He cleaned the terminals at no charge, and it worked fine. That is until the last couple of weeks.

Suddenly it wasn't powering on. I fiddled with the connections (using a sync cord with a flash bracket). It came on. I thought that was the end of it. Then this morning it went haywire again. It powered on, took one shot, but wouldn't work for several shots after that.

The back of the flash display showed the following this morning for the first time ever (not my image. This photo is an SB-900 while mine is a 910. Same warning logo though.) Photo comes from this link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/61824374@N04/14656102688/

14656102688_8741f9ba1b_o.jpg



I fiddled with the connections and turned it on and off a few times before it finally came back to life. Not sure if the warning is due to the battery terminals, but I only fired the flash once before it stopped working. Unfortunately I didn't have the manual with me so I had no clue what the warning referenced. *sigh* I removed the Eneloop batteries, then after reinserting them, it powered back on. I hope by using it for the last few shots didn't damage it further. I'll be calling Nikon this week to see about getting it fixed. I have an SB-700 to use in the meantime so it won't be a problem. Hopefully it is something that can be fixed without costing too much.

I regret not contacting Duracell when this happened. Back then they used to promote their batteries saying they would cover damage to electronics if their batteries caused a problem. I just thought the problem was temporary and could be fixed by using the Eneloop batteries. Whether the issue is solely the terminals or something else, I have no idea.
 

Needa

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What the symbol indicates according to the manual.

All functions other than the power switch are inoperable because of power abnormalities.


Turn off the power, remove the batteries, and contact your retailer or Nikon representative.



That and the history leads me to think there is a contact problem or loose connection somewhere.
 

hark

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What the symbol indicates according to the manual.

All functions other than the power switch are inoperable because of power abnormalities.


Turn off the power, remove the batteries, and contact your retailer or Nikon representative.



That and the history leads me to think there is a contact problem or loose connection somewhere.

Thanks for this. I'm hoping the metal terminals are the only things needing replaced. I haven't fired the flash on high power so I can't see it being an overheating issue.
 

nickt

Senior Member
Its probably best to send it in. But if for some reason Nikon won't fix it or the cost is not practical, try this:

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid...ie=UTF8&qid=1468195541&sr=8-7&keywords=deoxit

If that works, then there is a deoxit gold for ongoing protection.

When batteries leak, they eat away the protective plating on the contacts. You clean them, the device works, but then it fails again soon because the unprotected base metal quickly oxidizes. They need some grease-like protection forever after that unless you replace them. I'm just speaking generally here, never had this happen to a flash.

You could try gently cleaning with a pencil eraser. If you happen to have a pen-shaped wire brush in your toolkit, that would work well.

There is also the possibility that the corrosive liquid traveled further into the flash and destroyed the circuit board over time.
Good luck. Hopefully Nikon can fix it reasonably and you don't have to mess around with it.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
its the reason I sold my 4 nikon flashes. the Sb900 had to have its bulb replaced twice and I got battery corrosion on energizer AA NIMH on 1 of my SB800 and the repairs were a lot of money. I now use $75 asian flashes now and beat on them mercilessly in weddings till theyll die. then I toss and buy another. Ive yet to do that but even if I have to do it every 2 years for one, im more than happy.

I hope your repair isnt expensive. I hope its not the capacitor.
I have the caig products nickt mentions. meh. ive used them on my cameras and they actually caused me trouble with lenses not working in a wedding. I went and got some cocktail napkins and rubbed the freak of the contacts so I can keep shooting. just use alcohol
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
Cindy....

Where is the corrosion that you see? Is it on the metal contacts of the battery door? You know that a new battery door is $20 on Amazon, and they just snap on and off, right? If the corrosion is there, I'd start by replacing the battery door myself, first.
 

hark

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Cindy....

Where is the corrosion that you see? Is it on the metal contacts of the battery door? You know that a new battery door is $20 on Amazon, and they just snap on and off, right? If the corrosion is there, I'd start by replacing the battery door myself, first.

It's on the metal of the door as well as the metal on the other end of the batteries. I just removed the Eneloop's and see there is more blue gunk on the other end of the worst terminal. And that was cleaned by the camera store guy just a few months ago. Considering these Eneloop's aren't leaking, the inside terminal must be pretty bad.

Thanks for the heads-up on a battery door. Wasn't aware of that. I may check it out, but most likely the flash will still need to be serviced by Nikon to replace the terminal on the other end and to see if there is any damage beyond that point like Nick mentioned. :(
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I just removed the Eneloop's and see there is more blue gunk on the other end of the worst terminal.

Blue gunk sounds like a problem, does not sound like a good electrical conductor. Is that corrosion gunk, or cleaning gunk? Vinegar is good to neutralize the corrosion gunk, which does need to be removed. You don't want it to run down into the flash electronics though (can hold flash above head to do this with a Qtip). Then an easy cleaning tool is a wood pencil eraser (slightly abrasive), just scrub the metal contact with the eraser end to expose shiny metal for a good contact to the batteries.

Probably less likely, but not impossible that corrosion could have entered into the flash body, possibly could have corroded an electronics board? Nikon would be an expensive cleaning, but they could replace a board if necessary.

I just fought this with a handheld luggage weighing scale that quit. The batteries were not corroded, and the batteries were good, everything looked great, but the batteries just could not make contact with the metal tabs anymore. Oxidation maybe? It was Not the electronics, it worked now and then, but a voltmeter measured the 3 volts at the batteries, but then measured zero between the metal tabs (with batteries in place). I even cleaned the battery ends, and scoured the contacts with fine sand paper, and they looked shiny, but only occasional intermittent contact. $10 bought a replacement, but the SB-910 is another class.
 

hark

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Blue gunk sounds like a problem, does not sound like a good electrical conductor. Is that corrosion gunk, or cleaning gunk?

I shouldn't have said there is more blue gunk. The blue stuff never happened before now. When I cleaned the original corrosion, it was white. I'm not sure if it is a reaction from whatever the guy at the camera store used. I told him I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. He said he had something different.

Vinegar is good to neutralize the corrosion gunk, which does need to be removed. You don't want it to run down into the flash electronics though (can hold flash above head to do this with a Qtip). Then an easy cleaning tool is a wood pencil eraser (slightly abrasive), just scrub the metal contact with the eraser end to expose shiny metal for a good contact to the batteries.

Probably less likely, but not impossible that corrosion could have entered into the flash body, possibly could have corroded an electronics board? Nikon would be an expensive cleaning, but they could replace a board if necessary.

I will keep the vinegar in mind. I tried cleaning the blue gunk with rubbing alcohol today, but I couldn't get to all of it. There are raised metal contacts on the other end, but I'm afraid to push too hard to reach the rest of the blue stuff that lies beneath them. It's almost as if those metal contacts work with a spring. Will be contacting Nikon this afternoon.
 

hark

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The idea of the vinegar is that it is a weak acetic acid. Alkaline batteries are, well, alkaline, the opposite pH of acid, so the vinegar can neutralize the caustic alkaline.

Here is an article, Method 2, Alkaline
How to Clean Battery Corrosion and Build Up (with Pictures)

Originally mine had the white crusty coating covering both ends of the terminals that it shows in your link. I can only imagine the blue gunk was a reaction of new corrosion to whatever the store employee used. It's just odd that no further corrosion was visible since the first time I cleaned it at least a year and a half ago, but that in just a few months of the store employee cleaning it, it showed up again. There wasn't any visible corrosion when I gave the flash to him, but he said the stuff he used would work much better than rubbing alcohol. Oh well.

In any case, I sent out my SB-910 this afternoon for repair. When I called, they gave me an estimate between $36 to $149 and between 2-3 weeks turnaround time if all the parts are in stock. However, when I went through the online process to file a repair, I had to commit to the $149 price. Of course, it indicated the cost might be less, but if it is more, then they will contact me for approval. So now I will wait....;)

I really need the power of this SB-910 for some of the flash pictures at church. Fortunately I can get by with my SB-700 for this month, but come August, I hope the other will be back in working order. Any photos in the Sanctuary work better with bounced flash from the SB-910. The SB-700 doesn't have quite enough power to illuminate the subjects because the Sanctuary's ceiling is so high. Due to the summer heat, services are held in the air conditioned Chapel so no worries for now.
 

WayneF

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In any case, I sent out my SB-910 this afternoon for repair.

Since efforts have not been successful yet, that does seem like a good solution. Nikon may cost a little, but they should make it like new again.

And then maybe switch to Eneloop batteries. :) They will need a charger ( maybe NOT the cheapest one), but the NiMH batteries won't leak or corrode, and will provide more power (not brighter, but longer lasting), and with faster recycle. Alkalines are not best for the high current of flashes.
 

hark

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Since efforts have not been successful yet, that does seem like a good solution. Nikon may cost a little, but they should make it like new again.

And then maybe switch to Eneloop batteries. :) They will need a charger ( maybe NOT the cheapest one), but the NiMH batteries won't leak or corrode, and will provide more power (not brighter, but longer lasting), and with faster recycle. Alkalines are not best for the high current of flashes.

I've been using the regular Eneloops ever since the Duracell batteries leaked. For whatever reason, the flash wouldn't power on even with brand new Duracell batteries after I cleaned the terminals but would with the Eneloop's. I think my first Eneloop's were made by Sanyo. Now they are made by Panasonic.

Even in some of our clocks, when we change the time from Daylight Savings to Standard Time (or vice versa), I'd find the clocks still running, but there was corrosion from the Duracell AA batteries. I don't think Duracell batteries are made like they used to be.

Since I don't use the flash for a high number of photos in one outing, the regular Eneloops have been fine. I know they make a Pro version, but for now, I don't see a need for them. I have so many of the regular ones charged and ready to go. :encouragement:
 

WayneF

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I've been using the regular Eneloops ever since the Duracell batteries leaked. For whatever reason, the flash wouldn't power on even with brand new Duracell batteries after I cleaned the terminals but would with the Eneloop's. I think my first Eneloop's were made by Sanyo. Now they are made by Panasonic.

Great. And that does seem odd, but right, Eneloop was from Sanyo, and then Panasonic bought control of Sanyo and changed Eneloop to their name.

Even in some of our clocks, when we change the time from Daylight Savings to Standard Time (or vice versa), I'd find the clocks still running, but there was corrosion from the Duracell AA batteries. I don't think Duracell batteries are made like they used to be.

I agree 100%. See http://nikonites.com/off-topic/31974-goodbye-duracell.html#axzz4E981XYQ3

Clocks are better with alkaline (no self discharge over a year), but now Amazon has some with their own name that are said to be made differently to better protect from leakage. They're working fine for me, but it's too early to know much about the difference.

"Improved anti-corrosion components and new zinc composition resulting in 10-years anti-leakage shelf life"

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...tery&rh=i:aps,k:amazon+aa+performance+battery

Duracell has their Quantum that are said to be the same technology, but I am certainly done with Coppertop now.

Since I don't use the flash for a high number of photos in one outing, the regular Eneloops have been fine. I know they make a Pro version, but for now, I don't see a need for them. I have so many of the regular ones charged and ready to go. :encouragement:

I agree there too. The Pro cost double for only a little more capacity. Seems better to me to just buy two sets of the regular. :)
 
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hark

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Clocks are better with alkaline (no self discharge over a year)...

Wayne, will you please explain what you mean by this? I don't understand the no self discharge comment. And when is it better to use alkaline vs. rechargeable? And why? I'm guessing that has to do with your comment.

By the way, I just ordered the Amazon Basics batteries you linked. I will give them a try and see how they perform in our clocks. ;)
 

WayneF

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Wayne, will you please explain what you mean by this? I don't understand the no self discharge comment. And when is it better to use alkaline vs. rechargeable? And why? I'm guessing that has to do with your comment.

Well, regular NiMH cells run down sitting on the shelf, due to self discharge. I guess you could think of it as internal leakage of electricity, it just disappears. Meaning, unused on the shelf, they will be seriously down in a few weeks, and dead in a couple of months, so they would not be good in a clock. Or in any long term use, thermometers, or in a flashlight stored for emergencies... whatever. They do work fine for photographers because we can recharge them before use, but photographers thinking of using them next Christmas will be surprised.

Eneloops are very greatly better at this (their property is low self discharge). Eneloop does say still 70% charge remaining after 5 years of storage, and likely very usable for casual flash use over several or many months. But not really the best idea in a clock due to any self discharge at all, it limits charge life. They won't last as long over a very long time. They might be fine any place where changing the batteries is no big deal, like say a wireless mouse, where Eneloops should last a year, and we don't have to buy more new batteries. So Eneloops might be a middle area, great for many things, but still, a clock does not sound right. :)

Alkalines have a very long shelf life, maybe 7 years, so that's a good thing. And clocks only draw the tiniest trickle of current, which is good for alkaline too. If they don't leak, they would be about ideal for a clock.

But flashes have an extreme high current demand (6 or 7 amps for the 2 or 3 seconds they are recyling), and rechargeables are built for that, but which is NOT good for alkalines, they are slower to recycle, and won't last as long.
 
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hark

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Nikon should have received my flash unit on Tuesday so I called today because I wasn't able to find the order number on the packing list that was enclosed in the box. Nikon sent me an email with a link to download the PDF that needed to be included when sending in the flash, and according to their site, the order number is listed on that packing list.. But after speaking with the rep, he said an order number will be provided once the item gets logged in. Today they are logging in items received on Monday so hopefully tomorrow I will receive a message that it is in the system.

Below is what I see when I log into my online account to check the status of a repair.

My comment isn't a complaint. If anyone needs repair service in the future, hopefully it will give people an idea of the process.



Nikon repair.jpg
 

hark

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I wonder if Nikon got behind from the July 4th holiday. In any case, I still haven't received notification of my flash being received although the tracking indicates it arrived there on Tuesday at 10:30am. It's now 2pm on Friday. I may try to call later this afternoon before they close for the weekend.
 

hark

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I just got off the phone with Nikon service. They are still logging in items from Monday, July 11th. Now I'm being told it takes 3-4 business days for the items to be logged in and I should receive an email confirmation with an order number by next Tuesday. At least I have an SB-700 to use.
 

Fred Kingston

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I wouldn't get too impatient Cindy. Both times I sent something to Nikon, their web site and status notification systems basically sucked... My camera and lens had been returned before their status systems started showing updates... I sent a lens to Ca. for repair, and the first status update they ever posted was "Completed, Shipped Back". And that didn't appear until after I had the lens in-hand...
 
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