Do you have any recommendation of what is needed in lightening portraiture photography? So far I've got SB910 and soft biz diffuser though. I'm aiming for indoor portraiture being able to match studio quality if possible but being mobile rather then bound by fixed location.
Indoor portraits set up essential kit idea
- Thread starter hulk2012
- Start date
Simple answer. Get more speed lights. Yes you can accomplish this with one speed light and a deflector. But introducing more lights to use as hair lights, background lights will really make a differance on the outcome. Looking at side by side comparisons of just that, you notice a huge advantage with the shot taken with multiple lights. Looking at one shot taken with one light and maybe a deflector done right. Yes it looks nice but not like the other.
singlerosa_RIP
Senior Member
Agree with FastGlass. I like to play around with portraits and use 3 SB-800s with umbrellas, softboxes, snoots, gels, etc. to get different effects. Since I can't lure modes into my studio, I'm doing sefies to fine tune my lighting skills. These are all 3 flash shots, triggered by an SU-800 with the flashes on manual. D600 with 70-200 or 85 1.8 lens. Wall behind me is a dark earth-tone color (before I change it with flash/gels).
rocketman122
Senior Member
You can get away with 2 light sources. But personally id use 4 -
Key/fill/rim/kicker
U have one flash so u need 3 more. Look at any manual lash from yongnuo like the 560III. aBout 73 bucks shipped. If u want to try cls thEn ull need flashes that support it. I think the 565 do and the 568 do. Personally id use slaves. Way more reliable. And since the flashes will be in the softbox u dont want a hit/miss. Radio slaves cost very little today and its just the way to go Imo.
Anyways thing Ull need
-softbox/umbrella/ beauty dish. You can get a good cheap softbox that will give you a nice soft light as your main. No need to spemd so much for a good one.
60cm x 90cm 24"x35" Umbrella Softbox Reflector Brolly Speedlite Flash Shooting | eBay
Ask fotojack as well where he buys his. I think he mentioned linkdelight
-for tHe main u can use the softbox or beauty dish and the other for fill. Me personally? Beauty dish for key and softbox for fill
-light stands. Cant help u. So many to choose from. Get one that can handle monolights if u decide down the line to get them
- cheap 2.4ghz slaves? Commlite g430. Ttl pass through hot shoe. Manual firing of of camera flash. Nice build locking pin and wheEl. Syn to 1/320. Best part, $25 shipped. Check ebay.
-get a short light stand for your kicker light or improvise. Not an issue. Get a box and use that behind your subject.
-get another light trio setup (stand/flash/slave) and that will go to the side behind the guinea pig, err subject and lift it up a bit and aim it down to the shoulder hair. it will give a Nice Edge/rim/hair light which make the image have an accent running across her shoulder/hair. You can also do a backlight setup instead or additionally. the light is lighting her hair from the back to give it a glow. Very nice also. Up to your personl taste. I use backlighting a lot for my wedding formals.
Just one thing u should watch for is spillage of the light. U should get a light meter. Theyre very cheap. Not because u cant shoot and then adjust, but because u should learn anD know how to use one. Its the basics.
Key light is the accurate/base exposure. all the rest of the lighting are over or hnder this main exposure.
Rim lighting is about 2 stops over your key light.
Kicker About 1 stop more but test it And see how you like it.
Fill light 1-2 stops under your key light.
Shutter? Does not matter because u wont be mixing ambient light with flashes. Your exposure is all from the flash setup. Keep it at 1/200 or 1/250. Aperture? Depends on you. I love shallowish depth of field but usually around 2.8-4 is nice. Stopping down makes everything really sharp but no body wants to see their pores and blemishes and imo photoshop work should always be a minimum. Get the picture to about 75% or more then tweak the rest
Backdrop? What will u use?
Key/fill/rim/kicker
U have one flash so u need 3 more. Look at any manual lash from yongnuo like the 560III. aBout 73 bucks shipped. If u want to try cls thEn ull need flashes that support it. I think the 565 do and the 568 do. Personally id use slaves. Way more reliable. And since the flashes will be in the softbox u dont want a hit/miss. Radio slaves cost very little today and its just the way to go Imo.
Anyways thing Ull need
-softbox/umbrella/ beauty dish. You can get a good cheap softbox that will give you a nice soft light as your main. No need to spemd so much for a good one.
60cm x 90cm 24"x35" Umbrella Softbox Reflector Brolly Speedlite Flash Shooting | eBay
Ask fotojack as well where he buys his. I think he mentioned linkdelight
-for tHe main u can use the softbox or beauty dish and the other for fill. Me personally? Beauty dish for key and softbox for fill
-light stands. Cant help u. So many to choose from. Get one that can handle monolights if u decide down the line to get them
- cheap 2.4ghz slaves? Commlite g430. Ttl pass through hot shoe. Manual firing of of camera flash. Nice build locking pin and wheEl. Syn to 1/320. Best part, $25 shipped. Check ebay.
-get a short light stand for your kicker light or improvise. Not an issue. Get a box and use that behind your subject.
-get another light trio setup (stand/flash/slave) and that will go to the side behind the guinea pig, err subject and lift it up a bit and aim it down to the shoulder hair. it will give a Nice Edge/rim/hair light which make the image have an accent running across her shoulder/hair. You can also do a backlight setup instead or additionally. the light is lighting her hair from the back to give it a glow. Very nice also. Up to your personl taste. I use backlighting a lot for my wedding formals.
Just one thing u should watch for is spillage of the light. U should get a light meter. Theyre very cheap. Not because u cant shoot and then adjust, but because u should learn anD know how to use one. Its the basics.
Key light is the accurate/base exposure. all the rest of the lighting are over or hnder this main exposure.
Rim lighting is about 2 stops over your key light.
Kicker About 1 stop more but test it And see how you like it.
Fill light 1-2 stops under your key light.
Shutter? Does not matter because u wont be mixing ambient light with flashes. Your exposure is all from the flash setup. Keep it at 1/200 or 1/250. Aperture? Depends on you. I love shallowish depth of field but usually around 2.8-4 is nice. Stopping down makes everything really sharp but no body wants to see their pores and blemishes and imo photoshop work should always be a minimum. Get the picture to about 75% or more then tweak the rest
Backdrop? What will u use?
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My recommendation is:
- At least two flash units three is better to light the back ground if needed (all should be adjustable output and radio/infra red slave capable)
- radio slave flash triggers
- Two light weight light stands
- two white shoot through umbrellas with holders
- one white bounce panel (4 x 8 sheet of foam core board maybe cut into two pieces)
- Inexpensive 5-in-1 reflector disc set
- Some kind of back drop setup that is portable
- At least two flash units three is better to light the back ground if needed (all should be adjustable output and radio/infra red slave capable)
- radio slave flash triggers
- Two light weight light stands
- two white shoot through umbrellas with holders
- one white bounce panel (4 x 8 sheet of foam core board maybe cut into two pieces)
- Inexpensive 5-in-1 reflector disc set
- Some kind of back drop setup that is portable
I recommend reviewing the Lighting 101 tutorial on www.strobist.com 
My aim is to be as remote/compact as possible and that's shooting portraits on location rather being bound to my studio waiting for the client to turn up etc. Today people are already busy enough and I think my remote service turning up in clients house with mobile studio will be win win for both parties. Therefore I am trying to get as mobile as possible while buying my gear. So far I've got sb910, d800 and 3 prime G lenses. Not sure what's next and that's the point. Some advising on anther few nikon speed lights, some invest in consistent light (soft boxes)..
I'm a bit confused here to be honest...
I'm a bit confused here to be honest...
rocketman122
Senior Member
ah, you didnt say so. Im certain we all thought home studio. you must be specific because most here were recommending home studio setup where weight/bulk/heft space wouldnt be an issue.
ok, so for a mobile portrait setup, personally? 2 light stands, with 2 umbrellas and im done. you can use one of those foldable softboxes I linked above. or check linkdelight. maybe a beauty dish. or if you need to be in and out in a few minutes, a boom with an assistant helping and holding.
those photogs who shoot super busy ceo's usually have 5 minutes time. they have softboxes on boom arms that assistants hold and its fired off that way. quick easy and gets the job done. if you have a place to setup then use two light stand with umbrellas. quick to open and collapse.
this is what I use at weddings when I shoot wedding formals of the family.
-bogen 3364 light stands. I then later use them with flashes and slaves for the dance floor all night
-yongnuo 622n or commlite G430. all shot in manual mode. ttl sucks ** with the 622.
- brackets I bought from ebay HOT Shoe Mount Flash Bracket Umbrella Holder FOR Canon Nikon Metz Sony HVL F60M | eBay
-umbrellas- I bought photoflex https://www.photoflex.com/products/adw-45-white-adjustable-umbrella
I set the flashes at 2/3 stop difference between them. so the ratio is very subtle. but usually, I shoot family at iso 2000 with 1/32 power and the backlight at 1/16. yes, Iso 200 is high(ish) but its better to have the grain and nice ambient light mixed in then to have the flash in the their face and the background just pitch black.
I also use a flash foot stand that comes when you buy a flash. I use a slave on that, pop a flash on that, then use that as a backlight.
as questions because youre not giving us direction on how to help or whats so confusing. the thing almost every photog has difficulties with is light/flash. theyre afraid to use flash because they dont know how to set it ip and dont know what to expect. the ttl/manual modes seems to confuse people when to use one and when to use the other.
Fantastic info. Thank you! Appreciate it.
Do you think I need pocket wizard or I'm god with nikon CLS and few nikon speeights?
Btw I'm doing locations so indoor/outdoor bit all compact/mobile set up though
rocketman122
Senior Member
neither PW or CLS. overpriced (PW) and underperformes (CLS) PW will set you back a lot of money for HSS and TTL. if your wallet can handle it, then get them. cls will not work well outdoors. and even indoors. if youre an a room and the flashes are all line of site, then youll be ok. personally, I dont trust them anymore. cls has its place. but not in the professional world. if you get payed, buy radio slaves.
FLASH HAVOC they have tons of info on slaves and whatnot. indoors, not an issue IMO. if you want ttl then 622n are the most common. I have them aaand...meh, will probably upgrade to pixel king pros. there are newer companies putting out stuff. Im certain that summer time we will have some new products that are going to be very interesting.
outdoors, thats the tricky part. if you use open apertures then youll need high speed sync, but more than youll need powerful flashes in certain situations. I shot family portraits in bounced shade around 12ish afternoon. bounced shade because there was a wall that bounced light back to the subjects, even though they were in shade. it was even bright to the eyes. I put flashes for some fill and they were firing at full power and werent making such an impact. dont forget for outdoors and HSS you need flashes that support that. for 2 umbrellas your 1 sb910 is a start but youll need another flash as well. me? I dont deal with TTL with slaves. its never accurate, its calculations and output seems to have a mind of its own and its inconsistent. manual power imo is the way to go. dont know why someone hasnt come out with something better with this ittl/bl till now. its ok, but very inconsistent and at times the calculations are off. metering technology sucks as well. they can make cameras shoot at 12800 with minimal grain but put a bride in a white dress in front and it underexposes. where the logic. yea, I dont want to hear the 15%/12% grey crap. I know how it works. im saying they should already have tech that has better algorithms.
btw you didnt write what gear you have or will be using. you should if youre asking for help. I dont ask for help with my gear so dont want to fill it out.hahahahaha
btw, how do I carry them? 45” Airsoft Dual Tactical Rifle Carrying Case Fishing Rod Pouch Gun Bag | eBay
I was looking for a bag for 2 light stand and 2 umbrellas for a long time, and these are just perfect!
What about two profoto b1 instead of these 4 speedlights?
Like you I'm learning/buying into more portrait photography, so take what I say with a pinch of salt maybe.
What is it that you think the profoto might give you over the 4 speedlites? I'm intrigued to why you mentioned it and if I might be missing something.
To me, giving up 4 speedlites for an over-priced profoto studio light is just going to cut down your creative options drastically. The lighting you might do for a new-born baby is different to the soft lighting you might give a woman, or more harsh lighting used on a man with a rugged look or muscle definition. I think the 4 speedlites and light control gives you so much more flexibility and fun.
What is it that you think the profoto might give you over the 4 speedlites? I'm intrigued to why you mentioned it and if I might be missing something.
To me, giving up 4 speedlites for an over-priced profoto studio light is just going to cut down your creative options drastically. The lighting you might do for a new-born baby is different to the soft lighting you might give a woman, or more harsh lighting used on a man with a rugged look or muscle definition. I think the 4 speedlites and light control gives you so much more flexibility and fun.
rocketman122
Senior Member
profoto vs speedlights..convenience and versatility with the speelights but youre giving up power. though its not relevant since you could shoot a bit more open and thats just more aesthetically pleasing IMO. I never shoot past f/4.5
but most of all, the price tag!! thats a big chunk for monolights. theyre resale will take a hit. I would buy speedlights. you can get really cheap MANUAL only flashes. truthfully speedlights will do more than you need. and you can also use them on other things as well. location photography...just use a bracket and stack two or even three if you need it.
but most of all, the price tag!! thats a big chunk for monolights. theyre resale will take a hit. I would buy speedlights. you can get really cheap MANUAL only flashes. truthfully speedlights will do more than you need. and you can also use them on other things as well. location photography...just use a bracket and stack two or even three if you need it.
You completely right. I agree 100% however shooting d800 where pixels count is ridiculous - I though maybe it would be great to start with the "no shadows" kind of full lit and additionally for a creative purpose get Gary Fong full set to get best of both worlds.
Not sure how the creative lightening would actually look like in this crazy 36MP super detailed images? Somehow I'm thinking that bringing the detail is the way to go to fully take advantage of the pixels count.
Correct me if I'm wrong please..
This bracket to stack few could be a compensate. Thinking about it actually..
rocketman122
Senior Member
just get this
Metal Flash Bracket Camera Holder 1 4" Screw Mount Adapter for 2 DSLR Speedlite | eBay
then 2 of some cheap flash brackets for the softbox/umbrella
flash bracket umbrella | eBay
and a softbox for cheap
90 brolly softbox | eBay
and youre set. buddy $2k is a lot of money. if youre going to make money with it, fine, personally the lighting shouldnt be expensive. invest in glass.. speedlights are way more versatile. they cost less, weigh less. less cumbersome to setup. portable. location studio, events, whatever, youre set. invest in flashes that can do TTL as well. look into the YN 560III and YN 565. if youre new, I would suggest you learn how to use a light meter though. get it cheap for $100. no need for the bell and whistles. spot, reflective incident is what you need. cheers!
thats a family formal shot. if you can imagine that I had to shoot at such a high iso because I had no ambient light. 2 umbrellas. 2 speedlights and a third backlighting her a bit. simple. considering I have about 15 minutes to shoot the whole family. under extreme stress, this is very good.
Metal Flash Bracket Camera Holder 1 4" Screw Mount Adapter for 2 DSLR Speedlite | eBay
then 2 of some cheap flash brackets for the softbox/umbrella
flash bracket umbrella | eBay
and a softbox for cheap
90 brolly softbox | eBay
and youre set. buddy $2k is a lot of money. if youre going to make money with it, fine, personally the lighting shouldnt be expensive. invest in glass.. speedlights are way more versatile. they cost less, weigh less. less cumbersome to setup. portable. location studio, events, whatever, youre set. invest in flashes that can do TTL as well. look into the YN 560III and YN 565. if youre new, I would suggest you learn how to use a light meter though. get it cheap for $100. no need for the bell and whistles. spot, reflective incident is what you need. cheers!
thats a family formal shot. if you can imagine that I had to shoot at such a high iso because I had no ambient light. 2 umbrellas. 2 speedlights and a third backlighting her a bit. simple. considering I have about 15 minutes to shoot the whole family. under extreme stress, this is very good.
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I guess you completely right. Since I already got sb910 then could extra 3-4 ones and the stuff you mention. Also like speedlights. Like versatility and light weight. Simple to use. TTL and HSS..
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rocketman122
Senior Member
yea, TTL is nice but not reliable for portraits sessions when the subject is stationary.u must use manual. but for other situations, TTL is great. its a no brainer IMO. cheap and way more versatile. the above POA shot was only in manual. usually around 1/32 front and backlit running 1/16