I want to buy a film camera. I have NO IDEA what to buy. Help?

daveminnich

Senior Member
I've decided I'd like buy a film camera to have some fun with. Certainly not replacing digital, but I'd like to have film available as a tool in the toolbox, so to speak. I've never shot film, so I have no idea what to look for/how to shop for a film camera. I do know these things though:

1. I want a Nikon so I can use the compatible Nikon lenses I already own.
2. I'd like autofocus. Doesn't need to have a built in motor (did film cameras even have those?), but I would like it to work with AF-S lenses.
3. Are film cameras with light meters a thing or does shooting film well require a separate light meter?

I'm also wondering where to get film developed. Building a black room isn't going to happen, but I want quality images, not Wal-Mart etc.
 

Bob Blaylock

Senior Member
If you're looking to buy new, then there is only one option, the Nikon F6. It is the only film camera that Nikon still makes. They also sell the “Nikon” FM-10, but that isn't really a Nikon camera; it's made by a different company, is very basic, and, I am given to understand, not nearly up to the quality that you expect of a genuine Nikon.

This link will give you a pretty good view of what film SLR's Nikon has made over the years.

If you have lenses that have aperture rings, but do not have the “shoe” at ƒ/5.6 to couple to the meters on older (before about 1978) non-AI cameras, then you'll want to get a camera that uses the newer AI coupling, but if you're looking for autofocus, then you're going to get that anyway, since no non-AI cameras ever had autofocus, or even imagined it.

If you have any “G” lenses (those without aperture rings), then you'll need a model even newer, new enough to fully support aperture control from the camera.


And yes, as far as I know, nearly all of the Nikon SLRs had built-in light meters, though some of the older ones are dependent, for accurate, consistent results, on mercury batteries that are no longer available. The few exceptions are found in the top-of-the-line F-series. The F, F2, F3, F4, and F5 had the meter, if equipped, built into the viewfinder, which was an interchangeable component. There were some special-purpose viewfinders available for some, if not all, of these models that did not have meters in them. If you swapped out the standard viewfinder for one of these special-purpose finders, then you didn't have a built-in light meter. Also, the base viewfinder for the F and F2 were non-metering, though I think these versions are rare. There are no fewer than five different standard metering finders for the F2, differing significantly from one another only in the characteristics of the built-in light meter.
 
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Samo

Senior Member
Go cheap and get a FE or FE2. More dough get a FM3A which is the best last film camera (beside the F6) ever made. F4 or F5 cannot remember which is better than the other and fairly priced. F3 was where first AF happened but not so advanced or compatible with later stuff.

Meter to zero just like your digi.

Best bet probably would be F100. It check marks everything on your list. $200. Great camera.

Film is not cheap 5-10 bucks a roll. Process and scan to cd only no prints no adjustments is what you tell them. Around 15 bucks for that. Do not use drugstore lab or WalMart. Find local store or mail to such a place. I shoot Porta, Ektar, or TriX when I shoot film today. Porta for skin, Ektar for vivid day color pop, Tx for b&w self processing (take a class you'll fall in love)

I can shoot 20 on film 20 on digi print them all at 4X6 and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.
 
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hark

Administrator
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Compatibility is the issue here. Since these newer lenses lack aperture rings, you need a film camera that allows the aperture to be set somehow. Be sure to find out before you decide on a model. Sorry I can't help there though.
 

Bikerbrent

Senior Member
I'll second Samo's recommendation to look at a Nikon F100. I have one and love it. Can't bring myself to part with it in case I want to shoot some film.
 

daveminnich

Senior Member
I think I'll grab a used F100!

Follow up questions.

1. Where should I get film developed?

2. Recommendations for film to use?

3. Is the F100's light meter reliable or should I use a handheld meter? (I don't own one yet).

4. Will the F100 change aperture on lenses with no aperture ring or should I plan on sticking to older lenses with aperture rings?

Thanks everyone!


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Bikerbrent

Senior Member
The F100 light meter is reliable and you do not need a handheld meter unless you really want one.

The F100 will work with all G lenses (no aperture ring) and even with VR.

I too will await the answers to 1 and 2.
 

hark

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If you have a local camera store, check to see if they offer developing. Like Samo, I'd ask to have the negatives developed and the images burned to a disc.

Not sure where you are located in PA. Allen's Camera (outside of Philly) has an F100 listed in Good condition. One thing you should check on is availability of shutters. Some of the older film cameras don't have parts available anymore. Not sure if Allen's still develops film, but they might.

If you've ever heard of Jared Polin (Fro Knows Photos), he used to work there and usually does an event there once per year.

Allen's Camera & Video | Shop Used
 

daveminnich

Senior Member
I'm really not interested in doing my own developing if I can avoid it. I'm a little over an hour from Philly. There's a camera store about half an hour from me. Not sure if they do developing though.


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480sparky

Senior Member
In the time you would take to drive the film to the store, you can have ready-to-print/scan negatives. With no gas money and vehicle depreciation.

And you won't need to drive back again to pick it up.

A HUGE bonus: You get to develop it for the results you want........ not a 'standard' that's been engineered by someone who doesn't care what you want.
 

daveminnich

Senior Member
In the time you would take to drive the film to the store, you can have ready-to-print/scan negatives. With no gas money and vehicle depreciation.

And you won't need to drive back again to pick it up.

A HUGE bonus: You get to develop it for the results you want........ not a 'standard' that's been engineered by someone who doesn't care what you want.

Have any links to some basics on how to develop film? I have ZERO knowledge on the subject.


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480sparky

Senior Member
Have any links to some basics on how to develop film? I have ZERO knowledge on the subject.


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Don't be afraid of it. Once you soup a roll, you'll realize how easy it really is.

There's boatloads of how-to videos on youtube. If there's something you don't understand, don't hesitate to ask.

You can get into B&W developing for around $100, chemicals included, buying new gear. If you can find something used, the price goes down..... especially if someone just gives you the stuff.
 
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RobV

Senior Member
Just developing B&W film for scanning is a breeze with minimal equipment needed (see video above).

It is when you get into printing and enlarging that things get complicated. (dedicated work space)

I developed and contact printed for the first time when I was in junior high. In the upstairs bathroom.
 
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hark

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If you decide to try and develop your own film, be sure to practice winding an old film strip onto the spools first. You have to do it in pitch black so better to practice on a dud roll of film that you can wind over and over.
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
If you take/send your film out for developing and scanning, be absolutely sure to inquire whether/what resolution they scan and create CDs at... Most aren't suitable for anything other than a quick cursory glance. The resolution is so low, you can't do anything with the image. Scan at the highest resolution you can, even if you pay extra...
 

Samo

Senior Member
If you take/send your film out for developing and scanning, be absolutely sure to inquire whether/what resolution they scan and create CDs at... Most aren't suitable for anything other than a quick cursory glance. The resolution is so low, you can't do anything with the image. Scan at the highest resolution you can, even if you pay extra...

+1. True. This is why I say stay clear of the big box route. Those sort of places tend to overturn personnel often also which leads to people who do not know what they are doing and who do not know how to clean and care for their minilabs which results in things like scratched negatives. Stick with a dedicated store and you'll often get the really good scans too. If you decide to self develop get a few other pieces of kit and you can self scan with your digital body.

Ever taken a digital picture and had that warm feeling of accomplishing something? Wait until you do it with film. Film is magic!
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Another danger of sending your film out for souping & scanning:

You may not get the film back.

Many places are now developing the film, then scanning, usually at low resolution! You get the disc back (chock full of useless lo-rez files).............but no film.......... they destroy it.
 
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