Tips on using manual mode?

Krs_2007

Senior Member
Use the other program modes first so you can see the difference when you change shutter speed or aperture. So use aperture mode for a bit and then use shutter priority for a bit and then head on over to manual and get ready to learn again.
 

Whiskeyman

Senior Member
Most green grass is a good substitute for an 18% gray card, and will give you good exposure values for the lighting conditions.
 

nickt

Senior Member
I think of manual as the mode to use when you can't trust your meter and need to force a certain effect. For starters though, trust your meter and make sure your display indicates a good exposure. Then deviate from those settings as needed. Just be sure you understand the principals of exposure. So many posts around the web from people just starting out... "I'm shooting manual but why are my pictures are all black?" (or all white or blurry)
If you need to brush up on exposure, I paste these links often:

Learning about Exposure - The Exposure Triangle - Digital Photography School

Exposure | Understanding Exposure - ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed Explained

Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO, & Light Explained-Understanding Exposure & Camera Settings - YouTube

I like the video the best.
 

nickt

Senior Member
I forgot to mention auto iso, if it is on turn it off while exploring manual. But there are some times when you might use auto iso with manual. For example, if you need to shoot at a specific shutter speed AND a specific f-stop to get a desired effect. Auto iso will attempt to make a happy exposure at the settings you choose.
Manual works out good for flash sometimes too. Same principal, if you need a specific shutter and aperture, ttl flash will attempt to accommodate those settings by adjusting flash power.
 

Englischdude

Senior Member
if you are just coming from auto mode, i suggest not delving into the world of M just yet. with M you acquire, as the name suggests, manual control of all the fuctions of the camera which WILL be daunting and could put you off DSLR for life if jumping straight in from AUTO, this would be a real shame. Instead, if coming from AUTO, start off at P which will still give the camera the control of shutter and aperture, but will allow you to experiment and take controll of basic functions such as flash and white balance. Start there for now, in the meantime studying the manual and learning about the functions and potential of A (aperture priority) and S (shutter priority). My advice would clearly be, untill you feel comfortable using P, then A and S, dont move onto M. Think of it as learning a new language, you would'nt throw yourself into a political conversation if your still at the level of being able to order a beer! MAKE HASTE SLOWLY and dont be afraid to ask. If there is a local club or interest group you could plug yourself into this would also be a great support.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
My primary tip for shooting in Manual is that you learn to use, and really *understand*, how to interpret histograms. I really can't stress strongly enough just how valuable this function of your camera is.

READ ME: Understanding Histograms

READ ME II: Understanding Histograms

One other piece of advice... Don't hesitate to pop into "A" or "P" mode to meter your scene and "steal" the suggested aperture and shutter speed. Once you know both numbers, pop back into "M" you plug those settings into your camera and you're good to go.

.....
 

Brian

Senior Member
(Edit- posted at the same time as above, so obviously agree completely)

The nice thing about Digital is the immediate feedback to allow you to experiment. Look at the Histogram of the image and learn how to read it. If your subject is strongly backlit, much of the histogram will by "too the right", meaning saturated. Strong frontlit subject- most of the pixels will be to the left- underexposed, your subject should be somewhere in the middle and upper (Right) third.

I use manual mode when the lighting on the subject is "way off" from most of the area in the image. "Matrix Metering" attempts to take that into account. I use center-weighted metering as you can "visualize" what the meter is basing the reading on, and you can compensate. Most of the time, means adding to the exposure as the subject is backlit. Sometimes manual mode can be faster than using exposure compensation, or exposure lock.
 

Brian

Senior Member
Meaning overexposed, not saturated.

I mean - off the scale, too the right is saturated. The sensor has a "saturation" count for each pixel typically running around 30,000 ( higher pixel count sensors) to 120,000 (Nikon D4 and DF) electrons before saturating. Many people seem afraid to have portions of the image "saturated", or "blown-out". Sometimes it is unavoidable, especially with digital. This also occurs when shooting film, but film is more graceful about it.

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Roy1961

Senior Member
Contributor
my tip is NOT to give up, keep trying until you get it, think it took me about 6 weeks until everything clicked, lost lots of shots, went from black pics to white to ones that looked like i was in a 9.0 earthquake, now i shoot in this mode everyday, everyone goes through this, you will get it. Learn from the pics you take that are bad.
 

Marcel

Happily retired
Staff member
Super Mod
If your going manual is serious, yoiu might as well get an incident lightmeter and forget the camera's meter. Reflective metering can so easily be fooled by the subject's nature that sometimes the Aperture or Shutter speed priority in matrix metering is your best starting point. From there you can learn to correct the exposure depending on your subjects.
 

Brian

Senior Member
The first Nikon F Photomic came with an incident metering attachment, it has an external sensor. I always used it at airshows. Worked great.

Ebay is loaded with hand-held meters. I use a Weston Master 715 that is about 70 years old with my meterless cameras. It had been in its box, so the Selenium cell meter is still accurate. With several meters that use batteries: stay away from those that use Mercury cells. replacements exist, but do not last as long.

This link- "Just a Random Ebay Auction", shows the Weston Master II (The 735) with incident light meter attachment.

Weston Master II Universal Exposure Meter Vintage and Antique Works | eBay
 
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