What is the best way to take macro photos 3x-5x life size with my D600?

Hello, I just bought a Nikon D600 and two lens, AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4G, and the Nikon AF DC Nikkor 135mm 1:2 D.


Would someone please tell me how I can achieve the close up shots like John Kimbler, who gets close into the face of an insect...with 3-5 times magnification capability. I have seen several others who take those wonderful ultra macro shots using the Canon MPE -65mm macro lens, like Kimbler also uses. Now, I have researched the best way to achieve those shots with what I have (all Nikon) and have become totally confused. I am far from a professional photographer but lack a lot of technical savvy.
Do any of you more experienced photographers have any suggestions as to how I can most easily get to the 3-5 times magnification capabilities with my camera. I am willing to buy new lens or attachments if that is needed.
I appreciate your time and your advice. Thanks!

If you want the best IQ you can achieve, and it seems thats what you want if you're trying to emulate someone, then you're gonna have to stump up the coin for a true macro lens, which has a ratio of 1:1, that is, an insect that is 1/2" long in real life, is 1/2" long on the sensor.

If you buy say a 50mm macro 1:1 lens, attaching a 50mm extension tube, or attaching a 2x TC will get you 2:1, which is double the size of 1:1
A TC will cost you light and IQ due to extra glass, and extension tubes will just cost you light, as there's no glass.

As you add more tubes, it gets harder and harder as the light gets less and less, and the image gets bigger. Personally, if i was going for that kind of mag, I would use a tripod, macro rail, mirror up, remote cable , ring light and offboard flash.

Then you've got the problem of DOF. At those silly mags, DOF will be starting to get into MM's or fractions of MM's, which mean at even f11 or even f16, you're only gonna get the eyelashes in focus, or best case scenario, the eyes.

That means you're gonna have to start focus stacking, and take maybe 10 shots ( as a rough guide ) at varying points from front to back of your subject to get a decent photo from it.

If you're only ever going to try front on / head on shots, its not so important about getting the whole insect in focus, but if you shoot the subject 3/4 on, or side on, you will probably need to focus stack

All in a nut shell Pierro.

I should add a couple of things... if you start with a 1:1 lens like a 180mm, you can probably stand off at 10". If you add 180mm of ext tubes to get 2:1, you will have to stay at 10".

But you can of course move away 10" and be at 20" but you will still be at 1:1. And regarding focus stacking.. this is only for subjects that are going to remain still for the duration of the shots

Thank you for you help....any advice on how to add extra lighting? I don't know much about lighting rings. thanks

A ring light that mounts to the end of your lens is very useful for lighting your bugs in dark scenes, ( they have their own batteries ) which will enable you to focus properly. And of course a flash, but if you use onboard flash, it may not direct the light where you want it, so offboard is best, and a diffuser to soften the harsness of the flash

Please note - a ring light is just an illuminator, not a flash. Ring flashes are much more expensive.

Ahhhh...now I am catching on. You have been a wonderful help...and anytime you want to send some more advice my way. please do. My son and I both have the same camera and are trying to get those magnified closeups...he is trying to figure it out on his on...but I know better than to do that ! Thanks again!!!

Here is a great video...

passing this on to my son....awesome...thanks!

what is the web address of this video?

so, knowing the camera that i have, if you don't mind, tell me exactly what i need to buy to get pics like those in the video....lens, flash equipment, tubes, etc.
I am going to make my purchases today or tomorrow...thanks so very much!

ok...i have been researching and have just bought the nikon 105mm f/2.8vr. Now, to decide on the sigma light ring or the nikon r1c1. any advice...which is better for my camera and easier to use and best all around for macro? thanks

One more thing...if I get a R1C1 speedlight kit, do i still need a ring light?