For the lower price,my D3000 provides very good fill for my photo hobby,but..

Danny17

New member
I noticed that some of the images on certain settings lack depth,and I am sick of using my photoshop filters to nearly correct the problem.Which lenses or other add ons can help with this problem? I don't like to use the portrait setting becouse it's too unadjustable for shadows and highlights..Somone mentioned getting the third biggest lens from the original 18-55.I need a new tripod too,it's shaky.​
pencil.png
 
Last edited:

Curt

Senior Member
Try setting you camera on "A" Aperture -Priority, that way you can control the depth of field by setting the aperture manually.
Not sure if that is what you mean by depth???
 

Danny17

New member
Geez,ok,think of the word outline and add dimension to it after you process the whole thing in front of your eyes as a picture.However,today I went outside with it for the first time,and I could finally make out the full hills on my cheekbones,so it's a lighting and stillness issue,as it was a nice sunny day.I got many great shots.I am surprised at the quality of my images after I lightly removed the noise.
DSC_0141.jpg
 
Last edited:

zx7dave

Senior Member
Danny if you are shooting indoors your camera will automatically choose a lower F/stop so that it can offer you the best shutter speed depending on what lens you have. If you are shooting with a zoom lens that has a f/stop between 3.5-5.6 then that is most likely your problem with depth of field. Try a fixed lens such as the 35mm or 50mm 1.4 or 1.8 F/Stop and you will allow much more light through the lens. After that if you wantgood depth of field you want to set your camera on "A" like Curt said and then rotate your dial and you will watch your depth of field go up and your shutter speed go down..keep doing that till you are near the minimum shutter speed that you can hold the camera steady at usually 1/15 to 1/60. You should have good depth of field except in very dimly lit rooms. Tripod is another great option if you want to stay with your zoom....good luck...
 

zx7dave

Senior Member
The other layer is to play around with your ISO settings...you can run all the way up to 800 before you really start getting noice in the pictures. This will also help you accomplish your indoor shooting. When you are outdoors or in better light make sure you use the lowest ISO you can to fully capture the vivid colors and detail...Pick a chair or something and take pictures of it running the ISO from 100-1600, and then same thing playing around with the F/Stop etc..that way you will become familiar with what you camera can do in various lighting...on indoor non flash pictures I only get marginally better pictures from my D300S which goes up to 3200 ISO...so once again proof that the lens is likely the most important selection based on what you are trying to shoot...and while fixed lenses are annoying because you can't zoom this is where you can really get some awesome pictures becasue of the low f/stop...have fun...
 

Danny17

New member
Thank you.I never thought of that.I will turn on noise reduction also if I have to.Bye for now.
 
Last edited:

zx7dave

Senior Member
One final thought...I leave the noice reduction off on my camera as I can clean up the noice in Photoshop better then the camera built in programs can..however that means I have to "fix" every picture...if you get good results with the NR on then you are set.
 

Danny17

New member
It's tolerable,but I prefer retouching it keeps more of the original character.I love portrait mode,it's realistic:).It softens and plumps the details.
 
Last edited:

KennethHamlett

New member
I'm not exactly sure that Danny is referring to depth of field. Her initial post talks about the camera providing good fill but the "lack of depth" using certain settings. I believe she is referring to lighting rather than DOF. Danny, front lighting such as that given off from an on-camera flash does give the effect of flattening textures and details such as the contours of the face. In the photograph you posted the sun is at camera right, thus providing sidelighting. Sidelighting rakes across surface textures and provides dimension, thus you were able to notice the shape of the cheekbones. If you are talking about depth of field, the distance between the farthest object and the closest object in a scene that has acceptable focus, then I would agree with zx7dave's first post. If you are referring to dimension in a scene due to lighting conditions and the ability to control highlight and shadow detail, then try balancing the indoor flash light with additional window light to add dimension to the images. Or when shooting outdoors and using fill-flash, try using a large piece of foamcore to bounce light back onto the subject.
 

Danny17

New member
The sun was sideways on my left.And the word is dimension,you are correct.My english is still evolving.I was falling back in the picture,into the fence,next time I will try standing still to get the full sideway lighting effect.I use the remote control,it works pretty good,and eventually I will use my skill on others and stills.I have to go back to Black's and order a rubber eye cup for the eye,becouse mine won't fit onto the mount.It shouldn't be too much.
 
Last edited:

tommongo

Senior Member
_DSC0264.jpgThis is an image I took with my D3000. It has strong morning light from the side and almost appears 3D with the way I framed the shot. I prefer my D200's for work but for taking casual shots for myself the D3000 is great! Tom
 
Top