What is Your Post Workflow?

SkvLTD

Senior Member
Curious how you guys edit/save/etc.

My own grew towards: Using bridge/shop/adobe raw- applying a rough RAW preset using first couple of shots > approve label/fine-tune in raw tool since it saves edits in a .xmp > sort by label once everything is done > use image processor from shop tools in bridge to batch convert, resize, and watermark. Otherwise finer edit in shop if really needs to be.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
To start:
• Create sub-directories on hard drive
• Create virgin hard drive copies (second internal hard drive)
• Download image files
• Import geotag data
• Cull worthless frames (exposure way off, OOF, etc.)
• Rate (star) remaining frames
• Batch Rename image files
• Batch insert XMP/IPTC data
• Insert keywords
• Select & rate images

Now the fun begins:
• Load a single raw file into Capture NX2
• Duplicate of original for comparison (Ctrl+D)

Then, adjust original image file if necessary:
• White Balance
• Picture Control
• Noise Reduction
• Active D-Lighting

Then on to:
• Curves
• Exposure compensation
• Contrast
• Highlight Protection
• Shadow Protection
• Saturation

Camera & Lens Correction:
• Color Moiré Reduction
• Image Dust Off
• Lateral Color Aberration
• Axial Color Aberration
• Auto Distortion
• Red Eye
• Vignette Control

Further color corrections:
• Luminance, Chroma and Hue
• Color Booster
• Saturation & Warmth

Now to adjust focus & sharpness:
• Gaussian blur
• High-Pass Filter (my favorite step!)
• Unsharp Mask

Next:
• Add grain/noise
• B&W Conversion
• Colorize
• Color Range Contrast
• Sepia
• Tint

May still need to do the following:
• Color Control Point
• Auto Retouch Brush
• Straighten / Rotate
• Crop (either freehand or specific aspect ratio) This I rarely do at this point.... I typically wait until I know what size print I'm making.

Time to:
• Save raw file.
• Rename, adding "Sell Name" to filename and save as a Jpeg in a separate file.

Export a JPEG to GIMP for:
• Cloning any areas that need it.
• Correct Perspective Distortion.
• Crop to final aspect ratio for printing (again, typically I don't do this until I know what aspect ratio I need to print).
• Any other step that CNX2 cannot perform.


Create a resized image for posting on web.
• Add copyright info to EXIF file.
• Add watermark & create custom gradient.
• Add custom-color drop shadow.
• Rename file, go to website for uploading.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
you forgot to add, sleep, eat and bathroom.

thats crazy.

-download images to computer to 3 different HDD
-copy paste event in ssd from one of the HDD
-right click on first image open in ACDSEE pro
-EDIT mode, edit all

burn to 3 dvd's

done.

if you need to edit so much, maybe you need to work more on pre processing..?
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Well, you obviously didn't actually read the list.

Those are the steps I take if I need to do them. No one would realistically think I do ALL of them to every image. It's just the order I do the steps I actually do.

I typically can take an entire day's shoot and be done in 2-3 hours depending on how many I give 1-star ratings to.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
we will agree to disagree.

I dont believe anyone except commercial photogs who need to do product shots for billboards need to touch a picture so much.

you did not note "Those are the steps I take if I need to do them." and I did read it all.

but my mindset is if one cant get 80-90% of the final image in camera, I think one needs to invest more in clicking the camera shutter button and less of the mouse.

the mindset of "eh, well fix it in PP" is not what (I think) makes a good photog.

im all about shooting not PP.
 

Heka

Senior Member
Here's my current workflow, although I'm only used this for about a week or two now. Works nicely, I can rate my photos in my iPad (w/Photosmith and all post-processing is then done in Lightroom). During the rating process I usually have an idea how to handle the photo later in Lightroom, so I'm tagging the photos according to this. Then when I finally transfer my RAW's to Lightroom and sync metadata I'm able to start the post-processing for these particular photos.

My Photosmith - Lightroom Workflow.jpg
 
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wev

Senior Member
Contributor
Take picture
Open picture
Fiddle picture
Save as copy
Save original
Post here
Drink beer
Sleep
Rise and repeat
 

aroy

Senior Member
Get out of the house
Shoot what ever catches my fancy
Start the computer
Connect the Camera with USB cable
Create a new Date Based Subdirectory
- D3300
- RAW
- YEAR
-YYYYMM
-YYYYMMDD
Check the last Image saved
Copy Images to TMP directory
Rename the prefix
DSC : 1-9999
ESC : 10000-19999
FSC : 20000-29990
.
.
Copy the images to directory YYYYMMDD
Open NX-D
. NR - off
. Vivid
. Sharpness - 7

Then view each image and if it is fine, crop if necessary, adjust exposure and contrast
Copy to jpeg

After all jpegs are generated, use Copywrite software to add Copywrite
Put jpeg in relevant subject subdirectories

Once a Week : Copy RAW, jpeg and other files to 3 external HDD
Once a month : Delete oldest RAW data for that month
 

J-see

Senior Member
I don't have a workflow. It's a hobbyflow.

I shoot, upload. Check the shots in ViewNX and delete what is needed.
Import in LR with some standard settings, check again and delete some more.
Process the shots that stand out.
Move to my unfinished folder those that made me go "hmmm".
 

Scott Murray

Senior Member
I take the photo, import into LR. Edit until looks good. Export with preset watermark (different on each mac LOL) post to internet and get feedback. Later re-visit and decide if any are worthy of full upload to my website.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
I start by weeding out the really bad shots. For me, I only keep four and five-star shots. For this I use Review Mode in Bridge to flag shots as either 4-Star, 5-Star or trash. I don't keep mediocre shots. Then I filter for trash and mass delete it. Review Mode makes this fast and easy and the bum shots don't even touch my hard drive; I do this step right on the SD card itself.

Now I use Bridge to rename and copy the keepers to a new folder on my data drive in one fell swoop.

I only dive into post processing shots that are going to be seen, either online or in print for so for those shots...

It's on to Adobe Camera RAW for global edits to things like exposure, white balance, lens corrections (e.g. distortion, chromatic aberration if there is any) and a little sharpening because ACR is a metric-ton faster than Photoshop pe se for routine, global edits like these. Curves adjustments, if I do any, get done in Photoshop though.

After a basic cleanup and corrections session in ACR I switch to NIK Tools in Photoshop for final tweaking and that can take me just about anywhere. I use Silver Effects for conversion to B&W and Viveza for working in color, primarily, but the whole NIK Tools package is simply beyond belief and working with Control Points is nothing short of mind blowing. I'd saw off a limb, possibly two depending on which, before I'd give up NIK Tools. If you don't have it, and you use PS or LR to do your post processing, you really need to consider NIK Tools.

....
 
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STM

Senior Member
I go to my images folder, create a sub folder and name the folder with a subject and date. I then copy all raw files from the camera into a subdirectory named "raw files" and from there it is on to Photoshop. Finished files are saved as .psd files and then saved as .jpg in a separate file labelled "JPEG files"

For scanned 35mm and 2¼ negatives or slides, I save them as .nef files and follow the guidelines above.
 

Englischdude

Senior Member
visible light:

- setup camera for current situation
- fire off a few shots, adjust accordingly
- shoot
- check in camera and delete accordingly
- save to laptop, load to Darktable
- adjust noise, compensate lens distortion, exposure, contrast, colour, shade and highlights as required
- export to jpeg, copy to NAS
- load into GIMP and insert watermark if going online

Infrared light:

- set custom WB, usually using manual focus on grass, focused to blur (completely out of focus)
- shoot and check, adjust accordingly
- copy to laptop
- load to DARKTABLE
- curse like hell and delete all pics with flare or hotspots
- adjust WB, colour temperature, exposure, blacks, contrast
- export to jpeg, copy to NAS
- GIMP and watermark if required
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
visible light:

- setup camera for current situation
- fire off a few shots, adjust accordingly
- shoot
- check in camera and delete accordingly
- save to laptop, load to Darktable
- adjust noise, compensate lens distortion, exposure, contrast, colour, shade and highlights as required
- export to jpeg, copy to NAS
- load into GIMP and insert watermark if going online

Infrared light:

- set custom WB, usually using manual focus on grass, focused to blur (completely out of focus)
- shoot and check, adjust accordingly
- copy to laptop
- load to DARKTABLE
- curse like hell and delete all pics with flare or hotspots
- adjust WB, colour temperature, exposure, blacks, contrast
- export to jpeg, copy to NAS
- GIMP and watermark if required

liked for using Gimp. used to use way back. didnt know people still use it. nice.
 

sonicbuffalo_RIP

Senior Member
I start by weeding out the really bad shots. For me, I only keep four and five-star shots. For this I use Review Mode in Bridge to flag shots as either 4-Star, 5-Star or trash. I don't keep mediocre shots. Then I filter for trash and mass delete it. Review Mode makes this fast and easy and the bum shots don't even touch my hard drive; I do this step right on the SD card itself.

Now I use Bridge to rename and copy the keepers to a new folder on my data drive in one fell swoop.

I only dive into post processing shots that are going to be seen, either online or in print for so for those shots...

It's on to Adobe Camera RAW for global edits to things like exposure, white balance, lens corrections (e.g. distortion, chromatic aberration if there is any) and a little sharpening because ACR is a metric-ton faster than Photoshop pe se for routine, global edits like these. Curves adjustments, if I do any, get done in Photoshop though.

After a basic cleanup and corrections session in ACR I switch to NIK Tools in Photoshop for final tweaking and that can take me just about anywhere. I use Silver Effects for conversion to B&W and Viveza for working in color, primarily, but the whole NIK Tools package is simply beyond belief and working with Control Points is nothing short of mind blowing. I'd saw off a limb, possibly two depending on which, before I'd give up NIK Tools. If you don't have it, and you use PS or LR to do your post processing, you really need to consider NIK Tools.

....

​I'll have to try Nik Tools....sounds like a winner!
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
​I'll have to try Nik Tools....sounds like a winner!
All BS'ing aside, I think NIK Tools is the greatest asset to come along for digital photographers since Photoshop. If I could use it as a stand-alone application I would seriously consider using it instead of Photoshop. As for the price, any one, single application in the NIK Collection be it Viveza, or Sliver Effects Pro or Dfine would be worth what you pay for the entire suite of applications.

Yes... I really do think NIK Tools is THAT good.

When you decide to buy it my only bit of advice is this: Learn to use Control Points. At first I thought NIK was just a collection of really cool, really flexible presets and filters. What a fool I was... NIK Tools is so much more.

And Control Points are a game changer.

Sorry if I sound like I own stock in the company, but I find NIK pretty damn exciting as you can probably tell.

....
 
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