Poll: Metering for landscape, Spot or Matrix?

M.Hinch

Senior Member
Would you compose the picture, meter the scene using Matrix, adjust the setting
to get a correct exposure, and take the shot.

or

Spot meter the sky, spot meter the land, add a gradual neutral density filter
that corresponds to the (stop) difference between the sky and land. Compose
your picture and take the shot.

or

Something different, and why?

I realize both will work, and one should get a great shot either way. Just curious.


Michael
 
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Joseph Bautsch

New member
Yes, no, maybe, it all depends. What you described are all valid photo techniques. So it depends on what effect you are trying to achieve. As a general rule of thumb scenic shots should be matrix metered, wide angle, at f/11 to f/18, tripod mounted and cable release. Then decide what effects you want to add in, CPL filter, ND graduated filter, various color filters or special effects filters, bracket shots for HDR, long exposure to show motion (water), fast exposure for stop motion, changes in white balance. It goes on and on.
 

M.Hinch

Senior Member
Joseph, would you not get more detail over all using the ND filter way?
A more realistic image of, for lack of better words, what I see?

Michael
 
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jengajoh

Senior Member
I use matrix for landscape shots, have a high f number, and play around with the shutter speed until it looks how I want it. For something like a water fall I will probably still use matrix, definitely use a ND filter so I can make the shutter speed as long as possible without being too bright and always have my ISO at 200 (only because that's as low as my camera goes) I hardly ever make my ISO higher for anything. For sunsets I like to play with different filters like the FLD and the CPL filters I have, just to see what colors it gives me. I can't wait for spring to get better sunsets and greener landscapes.
 

Joseph Bautsch

New member
The ideal f/stop, for most lenses, for scenic shooting is f/11 up to f/18. That range gives you the best depth of field and takes advantage of the sharpest area of the lens. At f/22 and above you get light refraction around the shutter blades and the image actually gets less sharp. Below f/11 the depth of field starts falling off. Every lens will have it's sweet spot (it's sharpest point and best depth of field) somewhere between f/11 and f/18. An ND filter does only one thing; reduce the amount of light coming into the lens. A graduated ND is used to block the light coming from certain areas of the shot, such as a sunset or sun rise. This in effect reduces the f/stop range so that you get details in the foreground shadows and details in the rising or setting sun. ND filters are great for reducing the f/stop range of a scene (A DSLR camera has about a six f/stop exposure range for max details in shadows and highlights) to get the exposure into the f/11 to f/18 range and/or to slow the shutter speed to show motion such as water falls. CPL filters not only take out glare and reflected light but also act as a 1 1/2 stop ND filter.
 
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