Is this lens flare?

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Scott Ramsey

Senior Member
Please look at the small grey area about the middle of the picture just above the waterfall on the rhododendron bush, is this lens flare? I am using a using a Rokinon 24mm lens at f/11 and occasionally get this when shooting streams or waterfalls. I can get rid of it in post but just wondering if that is what it is. This photo has not been processed, except for jpeg conversion and resizing.
thanks for any help!



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480sparky

Senior Member
It could be light spilling in through the viewfinder, given it's a 2-second exposure. Are you covering up the viewfinder on long exposures?
 
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STM

Senior Member
Photohiker said:
Please look at the small grey area about the middle of the picture just above the waterfall on the rhododendron bush, is this lens flare? I am using a using a Rokinon 24mm lens at f/11 and occasionally get this when shooting streams or waterfalls. I can get rid of it in post but just wondering if that is what it is. This photo has not been processed, except for jpeg conversion and resizing.
thanks for any help!



View attachment 116042
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It appears to have a slight bluish tint to it so it could be a faint ghost. Closing the viewfinder shutter will not remove ghosts, all that does is prevent light entering the viewfinder to affect the exposure and causing underexposure .
 
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STM

Senior Member
480sparky said:
The 610 doesn't have one.
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In a pinch a piece of electrical tape over the viewfinder opening would work like a champ. I always have a roll of electrical tape in my gear bag, it can have thousands of uses! It is the photographer's equivalent of duct tape. I had a problem with the light seals around the dark slide on one of my Hasselblad A16 backs and I had to get some replacement seals from Germany. Until they arrived, as soon as I had loaded the film onto the insert and slid it into the back, I stowed the dark slide in the holder on the back of the back and then put a thin piece of electrical tape over the dark slide slit. It worked PERFECTLY and since the metal on all of my camera and backs is painted black it was not even noticeable.
 
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Scott Ramsey

Senior Member
STM said:
It appears to have a slight bluish tint to it so it could be a faint ghost. Closing the viewfinder shutter will not remove ghosts, all that does is prevent light entering the viewfinder to affect the exposure and causing underexposure .
Click to expand...
So a ghost would be just a lens abarition, correct? No way to prevent?
 
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Whiskeyman

Senior Member
In stead of tape, I have a small black cloth, about 10" x 10", that I can drape over my camera that does the same thing without getting tape residue all over my camera. I thought of it because I've used a large cloth hood to focus my view camera under in the past. The large hood has also saved me when I had some pinholes in my camera's bellows. i kept the bellows covered by securing the hood with clothespins.

WM
 
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Eyelight

Senior Member
Likely a form of lens flare. Do you use the lens hood for every shot?

Keep an eye for it in similar shots and use a hand, hat etc to shield side light from the front element of the lens and see if you can affect it. May even need to shield part of the subject image to confirm lens flare is cause, since you have light reflecting from the water. If you find it is coming from the scene, then you may be able to minimize by shifting the viewing angle slightly.
 
Marcel

Marcel

Happily retired
Staff member
Super Mod
Photohiker said:
So a ghost would be just a lens abarition, correct? No way to prevent?
Click to expand...

The way to prevent is to block the viewfinder but it doesn't prevent lens flare. In your case, it's hard to know for sure.

To correct, you have to use the "burn" tool in either Elements or Photoshop. It's like using a brush to darken the area you want to correct and it takes about 20 seconds to accomplish.
 
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STM

Senior Member
Photohiker said:
So a ghost would be just a lens abarition, correct? No way to prevent?
Click to expand...
There are several ways of preventing ghosts, first is to use a lens shade. If that does not work, place our hand between the lens and the sun to block the sun. Just make sure your hand does not wind up in the photo, easy to do with wideangle lenses!
 
hark

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Does the lens have a hood? If so, did you use it? When shooting with the sun in the photo, it is quite possible to get lens flare. If the sun isn't in the photo, either using a lens hood or somehow shielding the sun from the front glass may help. I've heard some people hold a hat over the lens making sure it doesn't get in the photo or throw shadows across the subject.
 
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Scott Ramsey

Senior Member
Eyelight said:
Likely a form of lens flare. Do you use the lens hood for every shot?

Keep an eye for it in similar shots and use a hand, hat etc to shield side light from the front element of the lens and see if you can affect it. May even need to shield part of the subject image to confirm lens flare is cause, since you have light reflecting from the water. If you find it is coming from the scene, then you may be able to minimize by shifting the viewing angle slightly.
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yes I did use a lens hood. It was also an overcast day so there was no real direct sunlight. More than likely it was a reflection from the water as you mentioned or others have suggested light from the view finder. Thanks for your comments.
 
S

Scott Ramsey

Senior Member
Marcel said:
The way to prevent is to block the viewfinder but it doesn't prevent lens flare. In your case, it's hard to know for sure.

To correct, you have to use the "burn" tool in either Elements or Photoshop. It's like using a brush to darken the area you want to correct and it takes about 20 seconds to accomplish.
Click to expand...

Yes thanks, that is what I did to correct.
 
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