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Speedlight setup for D3100
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 134409" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Manual flash mode becomes an advantage for umbrellas. However, a hand held flash meter is very handy to set the levels, with respect to each other, and for the camera aperture. This is called "control". It could be done by trial and error (one light is very easy, but matching more gets much harder), but about the third time, you will realize the advantage of the light meter. It lets you set up the same situation again, same as last time, real easy.</p><p></p><p>The umbrellas are relatively fixed, not much is going to change. Manual mode lets you set it up, and then it stays set. And the only option for TTL is a Commander anyway.</p><p></p><p>Triggering modes are a PC sync cord, optical slaves, or radio triggers. These are all for manual flash mode. Commander is the only choice allowing TTL (and then only two or maybe three flashes).</p><p></p><p>In a studio situation with umbrellas, optical slaves are very inexpensive and very reliable (more than Commander, because it is full working power level triggering them, instead of a minumum power command). Some speedlights build in optical slaves, and all studio lights do. They are very mainstream in a studio situation. Whereas radio possibly may be overkill, but radio becomes good for great distances, obstacles, or bright sun, but in the studio, optical slaves are easy.</p><p></p><p>For optical slaves, you do have to trigger one flash some other way, then it triggers the slaves. That one could be a PC sync cord, could be a radio trigger, or could be the camera popup flash at lowest manual power level.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 134409, member: 12496"] Manual flash mode becomes an advantage for umbrellas. However, a hand held flash meter is very handy to set the levels, with respect to each other, and for the camera aperture. This is called "control". It could be done by trial and error (one light is very easy, but matching more gets much harder), but about the third time, you will realize the advantage of the light meter. It lets you set up the same situation again, same as last time, real easy. The umbrellas are relatively fixed, not much is going to change. Manual mode lets you set it up, and then it stays set. And the only option for TTL is a Commander anyway. Triggering modes are a PC sync cord, optical slaves, or radio triggers. These are all for manual flash mode. Commander is the only choice allowing TTL (and then only two or maybe three flashes). In a studio situation with umbrellas, optical slaves are very inexpensive and very reliable (more than Commander, because it is full working power level triggering them, instead of a minumum power command). Some speedlights build in optical slaves, and all studio lights do. They are very mainstream in a studio situation. Whereas radio possibly may be overkill, but radio becomes good for great distances, obstacles, or bright sun, but in the studio, optical slaves are easy. For optical slaves, you do have to trigger one flash some other way, then it triggers the slaves. That one could be a PC sync cord, could be a radio trigger, or could be the camera popup flash at lowest manual power level. [/QUOTE]
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Speedlight setup for D3100
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