Has anyone found a consistant, spesific situation where the D90 has not (for lack of a better word) metered the seen properly, and have had to use the Exposure Compensation. Prior to shooting knowing that it will need to be done.
Michael.
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Has anyone found a consistant, spesific situation where the D90 has not (for lack of a better word) metered the seen properly, and have had to use the Exposure Compensation. Prior to shooting knowing that it will need to be done.
Michael.
By default, the D90 uses the Matrix Metering mode. It's very smart, even if your scene has very dark areas combined with well lit areas. It covers the entire viewing area, sees in color, and has pretty good depth perception. I think you'd find that most photographers use this mode 99% of the time. The other metering options (Center Weighted and Spot) are more or less holdovers for old school shooters. You first might want to make sure you haven't accidentally changed your metering mode.
Nikon suggests that you don't use the Exposure Compensation button w/ Matrix Metering, but I (and I'm sure others) do it all the time. The most important thing to remember is to make sure you're starting at 0.0...and be sure to change it back to default for next time if you do end up changing it. I use the KISS method when it comes to setting exposure. You'll find hundreds of technical tips on the internet and in books on how to do it correctly, but I just take the shot and look at my LCD screen and make adjustments accordingly.
I also have access to ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) and Photoshop...and can tweak exposure there if need be. Though it's always best to do it at the camera. For the most part, the only consistent situation where I've used Exposure Compensation is indoors where lighting can be tricky. These days, I almost always use a remote or on-camera flash, even in the daytime, when indoors because I can control my lighting better that way.
Which metering mode you use should be a considered choice for the exposure you want depending on the subject, style and type of shooting you are doing at the time. If you feel that your camera is consistently giving you an exposure other than to your liking in any particular metering mode the D90 programing allows you to make adjustments. These adjustments are directly to the metering system and not related to the EV system. So it is not necessary to go back and make changes to the EV every time you take a shot. This adjustment can be found on page 178 of the users manual. You use the cameras menu, b4: Fine Tune Optimal Exposure. You can make adjustments of up to + or - one stop separately for each metering method. These will remain in place until you go back in and make new changes. Hope this helps.
Happy shooting,
Joseph
Just about every source I can find recommends not changing the b4 menu: Fine Tune Optimal Exposure. Just to name a few:
In essence, you're recalibrating the meter if you do this. Stick with the EV button, and make adjustments accordingly. Other things to consider:
Your software - Only Nikon's proprietary software shows images truly as they are "in camera" with all of the settings correctly displayed. Advanced programs like Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, and others do very well too. But if you're using something else, that may be the issue.
Monitor calibration - The color/white balance on your computer monitor may be the culprit here, and not the camera at all.
Anthony - Your research is correct to a degree. These writers and books are marketed and directed to, and purchased by beginners and those just starting to learn the Nikon AE system. In that case I would also advise these people not to mess with the optimal exposure settings. However there is a very large group of advanced amateurs and professionals who know how exposure works and know the Nikon AE system and for them this is the tool that they have been asking Nikon to add to their cameras for years. For this group being able to make adjustments to to the optimal exposure settings to achieve their concept of a proper exposure is a valuable tool.
Happy shooting,
Joseph
I suppose it's because exposure is subjective, just like most other things. What one person sees as underexposed, another might think is just fine. Unless we're walking around with a fancy light meter all the time, it's difficult to tell for sure. Even then it's a matter of how the individual photographer interprets the scene.
What I don't like about the b4 menu is that there's no notification that there is an adjustment. At least if you tweak the EV, you can see the change in the viewfinder. After shooting for awhile, one might start to wonder why all their images seem a bit off. Then one day...oops, forgot they changed the calibration on their metering system.
Anthony - You make a point here that I had not really given enough consideration to. The b4 menu changes do not have a change indicator. That would make these b4 changes a lot less useful unless you are planning on making them more or less permanent. If that's not the case then I agree using the EV would be the best way to go. Then you would know exactly where your exposure metering is set as soon as you turn the camera on.