D7100 iq

Skwaz

Senior Member
Hi
Is it possible for some of you guys to post what you consider first class shots , eg pin sharp no noise
just cracking pics
Could they be posted at 100%
Maybe I'm being over critical and maybe am getting the best I can
damit not sure what I want I'm not over happy when pics viewed at 100% not pin sharp ?
Am I asking to much at 100%
 

480sparky

Senior Member
The reason they don't 'look sharp' at 100% is because each pixel in the image is displayed as one pixel on the monitor. Enlarging it any more will not reveal more detail, it will just spread one image pixel over multiple monitor pixels.

Here's what I consider one of my sharpest (cropped to 100%):

Steady2.jpg
 

Pretzel

Senior Member
That's asking for a tall order, as everyone's processing is a bit different. Here's one of my moon shots, though, already cropped down to roughly 100% before being resized by the forums.

Craters1.jpg


This was with the 70-300 VR, which isn't the SHARPEST lens on the market, by far, but still a great image to represent sharpness. With a reasonable camera body and a reasonable lens, you can get what you want. FWIW, have you fine-tuned the focus for each lens yet??
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
Where are you looking at them, in the camera or on the computer? Are you shooting RAW or JPEG? Are you sharpening?

Digital cameras are not magic and we need to learn how to extract the best from them. RAW files are by default unsharpened, or at least barely sharpened. Simply sliding the "Sharpen" slider in ACR or LR will not always improve the sharpness, and will often enhance noise more than anything.

So, what we really need to know are specifics and for you to post examples of what you're not happy with.

As for whether it can do sharp? Yes, it can do sharp.

14812335388_67d488599d_b.jpg
 

Stoshowicz

Senior Member
View attachment 114495
This one came out nice and I didnt do much to it as you can see ,, the scales are visible at five feet with a 300mm lens , there isnt much noise or color fringe.
This shot is certainly good enough for me on those counts.
 

Brazeal

Senior Member
Here is my last image at 100%. MANY variables factor into image IQ. You need to isolate each variable to determine if the problem is with your camera, lens, your technique, or just your expectations exceed your camera equipment limitations. You can start by putting your camera on a sturdy tripod and use Live View to focus on a well lit static contrasty subject and take a few shots at least 3 stops or more from wide open, or just try f8 to start. Rack your focus for each shot and reacquire focus. Set your ISO to 100 for test shots and use only the center focus point on single AF to pinpoint your focus. I'd recommend using the timer with Live View to reduce any vibration and ensure any VR is turned off and shoot in RAW. That setup should give you the sharpest possible image that will be your baseline. If you have Lightroom, develop to your tastes and sharpen to around 50, press the ALT key (on Windows) and increase the masking slider until you see only the edges of the subject and not much or any of the background. Compare to the before image at 100%. If all looks good, then you can start looking at your technique, calibrating your lenses, etc. Be warned, pixel peeping often results in LBA and $$$$.

MLB_4039-2.jpg
 

Skwaz

Senior Member
Thanx everyone very interesting need to look at fine tuning maybe
My birthday today so a bit busy tonight will post some as soon as I can
 

SteveH

Senior Member
Here is my last image at 100%. MANY variables factor into image IQ. You need to isolate each variable to determine if the problem is with your camera, lens, your technique, or just your expectations exceed your camera equipment limitations. You can start by putting your camera on a sturdy tripod and use Live View to focus on a well lit static contrasty subject and take a few shots at least 3 stops or more from wide open, or just try f8 to start. Rack your focus for each shot and reacquire focus. Set your ISO to 100 for test shots and use only the center focus point on single AF to pinpoint your focus. I'd recommend using the timer with Live View to reduce any vibration and ensure any VR is turned off and shoot in RAW. That setup should give you the sharpest possible image that will be your baseline. If you have Lightroom, develop to your tastes and sharpen to around 50, press the ALT key (on Windows) and increase the masking slider until you see only the edges of the subject and not much or any of the background. Compare to the before image at 100%. If all looks good, then you can start looking at your technique, calibrating your lenses, etc. Be warned, pixel peeping often results in LBA and $$$$.

View attachment 114519

Hey now, this is a family forum!! NSFW dammit! :eek-new:
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
Saw this today and it reminded me of your question...

500px ISO » Unbelievable Photography » 15 Tips For Getting Razor Sharp Photos

One thing I've found with the lighter weight bodies of the D7000/7100 and D600/610 is that mirror slap can have a direct impact on sharpness if your technique is not rock solid. I started using Quiet shutter mode early on in my experience with the D7000 and now use it almost exclusively when not shooting continuous (thank God for Qc mode on the D610 & D750!!). Marcel did a write up that's likely now buried deep in the bowels of the D7000 forum, but if you look hard you'll find examples showing the same shot using S and Q shutter modes, and there is a difference in IQ.
 

adox66

Senior Member
There is a mirror lock up option as well on the D7100. One press lifts the mirror up and a second press opens the shutter.
 

Pretzel

Senior Member
Saw this today and it reminded me of your question...

500px ISO » Unbelievable Photography » 15 Tips For Getting Razor Sharp Photos

One thing I've found with the lighter weight bodies of the D7000/7100 and D600/610 is that mirror slap can have a direct impact on sharpness if your technique is not rock solid. I started using Quiet shutter mode early on in my experience with the D7000 and now use it almost exclusively when not shooting continuous (thank God for Qc mode on the D610 & D750!!). Marcel did a write up that's likely now buried deep in the bowels of the D7000 forum, but if you look hard you'll find examples showing the same shot using S and Q shutter modes, and there is a difference in IQ.

You just HAD to link to an article that has one of those ND old pier shots, didn't you? Now my sunset photos don't thrill me as much... :(

LOL, great link and thanks for sharing! Sometimes, those of us with just a couple of years worth of experience need the reminders, and that's a straightforward and useful article!!

...and THANKS for the quiet shutter tip thrown in there! I'd never considered that as a boon to sharpness before, but am looking forward to testing it out! I see a bit of apples to apples testing in my near future.
 
Last edited:

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
You just HAD to link to an article that has one of those ND old pier shots, didn't you? Now my sunset photos don't thrill me as much... :(

LOL, great link and thanks for sharing! Sometimes, those of us with just a couple of years worth of experience need the reminders, and that's a straightforward and useful article!!

...and THANKS for the quiet shutter tip thrown in there! I'd never considered that as a boon to sharpness before, but am looking forward to testing it out! I see a bit of apples to apples testing in my near future.

I'd just found Jimmy McIntyre's stuff a couple weeks before you posted your shots, so they were fresh in my head. Not just ND but also blended (i.e. 2 frame HDR). He's got some great tools and tips on his site. Lots of stuff on blending and luminosity masks that I'm going to need a week of quiet time to just sit and decipher. I'm off to visit family next week and have intentions of doing some shots specifically to try blending his way. Check out the tutorial he does on one of his pylon shots - it'll make your head explode. HDR tools are great for those of us who don't have the knowledge or skills to do it on our own. But once you get that knowledge you suddenly realize, "That's why my shots don't look like theirs!!" It's not the software, it's the skills and knowing where to apply them. You'll never shoot 7 bracketed images again when you realize you can do it with 2.
 

Skwaz

Senior Member
Ok guys can you do anything with these to tell me they are sharp and top IQ
all taken on tripod , single point focus using Liveview, ISO 100 ,aperture priority, Raw neutral with 2 sharpening
Focus point was the large flower all from about 10 feet
first three with 35mm 1.8
f5 1/320
f8 1/125
f11 1/60
second set of three with vr 18-105 vr off, the rest same as above lens set at 35mm
f5 1/250
f8 1/100
f11 1/80
If I get some answers I be gobsmacked Cheers
 
Top