D5300 native settings

Hi did ask in my last thread in here but I didn't really get an answer so I'll try its own thread..

what at are the native settings for the d5300 is it f8 ISO 200 ?

with similar settings to my old d3200 as above I find the pics more under exposed requiring a slower shutter and creating shake at times, which has forced me to move to A or S, from M.

thanks for the advise..

Not sure I understand the question.

The native ISO is ISO 100. That is how the sensor works, and the other ISO values are derived from that.

The lens has a maximum and a minimum aperture. Possibly a stop or two closed from maximum is a sharpest value. f/8 or f/5.6 should normally be good, often optimum.

Metering depends greatly on the subjects colors, the subject in front of the camera at this moment. A subject mostly of white or light or reflective colors will be underexposed, and a subject of mostly black or dark or nonreflective colors will be overexposed. Just how life is, just how reflective meters work. Incident meters are normally better, reading the light directly (instead of the light reflected by the subject), but incident meters cannot be useful if built into cameras. Most "average" subjects have wide mix of such colors, and come out around correct, but metering is sort of a user skill.
See How Camera Light Meters Work

And metering can depend on metering mode. Specifically, Spot Metering is NOT to be used unless you actually understand it, what it is, and how to use it. Spot metering usually greatly confuses newbies.

When you see that auto camera modes (A, S, P) don't give precisely correct exposures of some certain subject, the purpose of Exposure Compensation is to be used to correct it.

I ask as peeps on the d3200 forum/ or I read somewhere f8f11 was the native for it and ISO 200 recommended as native for the sensor , maybe I misread and that a usual best option for point and shoot in normal daylight?

thequeenscheese said:

I ask as peeps on the d3200 forum/ or I read somewhere f8f11 was the native for it and ISO 200 recommended as native for the sensor , maybe I misread and that a usual best option for point and shoot in normal daylight?

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Worded that way, I think that is wrong, in that ISO 100 is the "native" ISO (what the sensor does), and the lens has no "native" aperture. Stopping down a couple of stops can be a "preferred" aperture, but of course, it depends on the situation.

Normal daylight (assuming bright sun) will need about f/8 or f/11 (at 1/500 or 1/250 second, and ISO 100) to be a normal correct exposure. This is a brightness level of sunlight, not anything "native" about the camera. But again, it depends, it could be hazy sun, or cloudy, or shade, etc. Or you might want ISO 400 to have a couple stops more shutter speed for fast sports, etc. The only answer is always "it depends".

I'll try and find the thread maybe that will help me get it across..

When i say native i probably mean sweet spot settings..

thequeenscheese said:

When i say native i probably mean sweet spot settings..

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Well that's an entirely different question.

Generally speaking, the lower the ISO, the better since a lower ISO means less noise. However, the correct ISO for any particular shot has be balanced against the necessary shutter speed and aperture to achieve the photo you want. You can never get away from this juggling act of aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Never ever.

As for a "sweet spot" with lenses, generally speaking the sharpest aperture is one or two stops down from the maximum aperture; e.g. for an f/4 lens the sharpest aperture is probably f/8. For an f/2.8 lens the sharpest aperture is probably about f/4. This is not a hard and fast rule, it's a guideline.
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i see that makes some sense, so its more os a lense than sensor/camera thing?

thequeenscheese said:

i see that makes some sense, so its more os a lense than sensor/camera thing?

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Well, as Wayne pointed out, DSLR's, generally speaking, use a base ISO of ISO100. To create, say, ISO400, the sensitivity of the sensor is electronically increased to match what we call ISO400. In short, all ISO's are calculated using ISO100 as a starting point. This is why ISO100 is called the "Native ISO"; it is the starting point from which any other ISO is calculated, either up or down.

The so-called "sweet spot" of a lens, meaning the aperture at which it shoots the sharpest is, typically, one or two stops down from the maximum aperture for that particular lens. It would take someone with a much deeper understanding of physics and optics and such to explain why this is the case.

These are two entirely different concepts and as far as I can tell they don't have anything to do with one another.
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It was all about dynamic range, with some iso settings, the sensor works better, as I understand it

here it is

Welcome aboard DBL, enjoy the ride. We look forward to seeing more posts and samples of your work.

You might also want to consider introducing yourself on New Member Introductions.

The native ISO setting means only one thing - 0 dB of gain on the sensor. This is the voltage level at which the manufacturer has calibrated the sensor to capture the maximum dynamic range that it is capable of. Although different cameras may have different initial ISO settings, they are all equivalent to 0 dB gain.

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Исходная настройка ISO означает только одно - усиление датчика на 0 дБ. Это уровень напряжения, при котором производитель откалибровал датчик для получения максимального динамического диапазона, на который он способен. Хотя разные камеры могут иметь разные начальные настройки ISO, все они эквивалентны коэффициенту усиления 0 дБ.

Вы понимаете, что отвечаете на тему, которая была создана почти 10 лет назад, а людей, создавших тему, здесь уже нет. Верно?

You realize that you are responding to a topic that was created almost 10 years ago, and the people who created the topic are no longer here. Right?

Fred Kingston said:

Вы понимаете, что отвечаете на тему, которая была создана почти 10 лет назад, а людей, создавших тему, здесь уже нет. Верно?

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Но все еще есть люди, которые ищут ответ на поставленный вопрос, как я. Я нашел ответ и поделился им в этой теме

Да вы правы. А теперь, как насчет того, чтобы представиться группе и ответить на более актуальные темы. К сожалению, наш опыт показывает, что новички, которые отвечают на темы 10-летней давности, обычно являются троллями, просто пытающимися создать песону.

He said: But there are still people who are looking for an answer to the question, like me. I found the answer and shared it in this thread

Fred said: Yes you are right. Now, how about you introduce yourself to the group and respond to more relevant topics. Unfortunately, in our experience, newbies who respond to 10-year-old threads are usually trolls just trying to create a following.

I answered the question, which I know the answer to. To be honest, I am confused, why there are so many grievances against me?

Fred Kingston said:

Да вы правы. А теперь, как насчет того, чтобы представиться группе и ответить на более актуальные темы. К сожалению, наш опыт показывает, что новички, которые отвечают на темы 10-летней давности, обычно являются троллями, просто пытающимися создать песону.

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I just wanted you to know that if you don't get a response to your question, it would be because this thread is very old and the people that asked the question are no longer here.